Steve Roberts
Member
Hi All,
I've had a bottle of Rodinal lying around for a few months and have just been inspired by all the postings here to give it a try. I combined the test with trying out some of the "White Plains" FP4 movie film, bought via eBay and for half the cost of buying FP4 here in England, even including cost of postage!
The FP4 was exposed at 125ASA and development stuck strictly to the instructions, 1 + 25, 8 mins @ 20 degs C. The result was what I could best describe as a text-book set of negs and I shall certainly be experimenting further. Can't believe that such a small amount of developer (15cc) can work so well!
I know that the White Plains FP4 has been discussed here before (in particular the poor communications) and some talk around the difference between FP4 "movie" film and "still", notably the perforation shape. The main difference I noticed is that the movie film takes longer to clear in the fixing stage. I normally leave a piece of unexposed film in the fixer pot to check clearing time while the film is fixing, and thought my fixer must be going home. However, dunking both types of film in the fixer simultaneously proved that my fixer is OK but the "movie" film took about twice as long to clear.
Best wishes,
Steve
I've had a bottle of Rodinal lying around for a few months and have just been inspired by all the postings here to give it a try. I combined the test with trying out some of the "White Plains" FP4 movie film, bought via eBay and for half the cost of buying FP4 here in England, even including cost of postage!
The FP4 was exposed at 125ASA and development stuck strictly to the instructions, 1 + 25, 8 mins @ 20 degs C. The result was what I could best describe as a text-book set of negs and I shall certainly be experimenting further. Can't believe that such a small amount of developer (15cc) can work so well!
I know that the White Plains FP4 has been discussed here before (in particular the poor communications) and some talk around the difference between FP4 "movie" film and "still", notably the perforation shape. The main difference I noticed is that the movie film takes longer to clear in the fixing stage. I normally leave a piece of unexposed film in the fixer pot to check clearing time while the film is fixing, and thought my fixer must be going home. However, dunking both types of film in the fixer simultaneously proved that my fixer is OK but the "movie" film took about twice as long to clear.
Best wishes,
Steve