Rehabilitating lenses after a quick dunk?

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Mike Wilde

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I am not afraid to take my cameras into a less than perfect situation - so I knew this day would some day happen.

We were canoeing tripping in Algonquin Park over the weekend. A part of the trip involves periodically lifting the canoe over beaver dams. At one the boat's contents all got wet, albeit with clean fresh water.

The camera, a Minolta X-700 saw the most water, as it was in the top of a pop top padded 'everready' camera bag. It had a 35-70 zoom on it that saw a fair bit of water as well.

I was able to quickly (within a few minutes of retrieving other itmes that were floating away) rewind the film in the camera before it had a chance to swell too much. Subsequently prying it out of the cassette in the darkroom last nightwas a challenge. It presently is on a stainless steel reel, in daylight tank, sans cap on the light trap,drying off before I try to process it.

The 2 lenses in a separate padded zipped closed lens case lenses varied in thier degree of wetting. The macro 50mm showed some wetness around the edge of the rear cap, but was dry inside. The 25mm showed a bit of wetting around the rear lens cap, and as mist that formed under the sktlight filter.

Once we made camp in the early afternoon, all filters and front and rear caps were taken off of the lenses. The lenses were set with apertures open wide, and balanced on a log to have the sun shine striaght through them. The zoom was periodically zoomed in and out, and any moisture evident on the barrel was wiped away with a dry towel. All lenses were periodically moved from minimum to maximum focus distance, and any moisture evident on a barrel was wiped away.

The camera back was not openned until two days hence, as I was unsure how much film was left that would not fit inside the cassette. Its batteries were removed.

Presently the lenses, camera, with back removed, and film in a daylight tank sut inside a sealed 5 gallon pail that has a tight fitting gasket as a part of its lid closure system. Inside this pail is a freshly openned glass jar of dessicant (like the kind you use in the sub-tropics to keep fungus at bay from closed cabinets of gear). I intend to check on it daily, and exchange this dessicant until it stops showing satutation (little indicators beads in it go pink).

I presume the camera is likely fried, but am hoping to salvage the film and lenses.

I know a waterprooof camera bag is an option, but it rather detracts from getting good images as they serindipitously appear, like as you come around a point, to see otters playing or transition around a curve and come face to face at 20' with a moose drinking at the rivers edge.

The idle camera gear always goes into a heavy duty zip lock freezer bag when we are approching moving water, as this is where spills are most likely

Does anyone have any other ideas as to how I should be recovering from this situation better?
 
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Mike Wilde

Mike Wilde

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thanks blaze

I did a google of all word combinations I could think of before posting here. As usual someone else has trod the path before, and is willing to offer a guiding word. Thanks, fellow APUGger
 

Will S

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I had the same thing happen to me this weekend. Well, almost. I was canoeing on the Wisconsin river and myself and my 5 year old son capsized when we hit a snag going sideways (there was an incredible amount of wind and I couldn't keep it straight with him in the bow.) We were fine just drifting with the swamped canoe until we ran into a tree that was just above the water. I got my son onto the tree, but the canoe went down to the bottom and stopped there! After making sure my son was OK I started looking for it and was able to hang onto the tree and start pushing on the bow with my foot. It eventually came up and floated away in the current. Luckily, some other folks saw what had happened and one of them retrieved the canoe while the other took my son from me. I floated on down to where they had pulled everything up on the bank. My Bessa R3A was in a waterproof bag and it had stayed completely dry. This was after the canoe was totally submerged with a lot of current pushing on it for at least 30 minutes! Needless to say, I wasn't very worried about my camera until after I got my son dry and some food in him, but I was quite pleased to see that everything stayed dry. I think I paid about $50 for that bag, but it was definitely worth ever penny.

I agree with you about keeping it out of the bag, and I do if I'm sure we aren't going to swamp, but I was very glad it was in the bag then.

Best,

Will
 

Mick Fagan

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I fortunately have a vacuum chamber.

About once a year I get a phone call from friends saying that they have dropped something electronic, usually their phone into water, can they come around and put it into my vacuum chamber.

I have once, placed a Nikon F2 in the vacuum chamber after it had been submerged for about 1/2 an hour in a river.

After about 20 minutes we assumed all water had gone, the camera was then sent away for a service, it has worked ever since.

If you know of anyone who has access to a vacuum chamber, this will eradicate water the easiest and best way possible.

In case you don't know, water boils off in a vacuum.

In fact, water in my vacuum chamber will start boiling at 2 degrees C, which effectively means I have boiling cold water!

Mick.
 

Photo Engineer

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I fortunately have a vacuum chamber.

About once a year I get a phone call from friends saying that they have dropped something electronic, usually their phone into water, can they come around and put it into my vacuum chamber.

I have once, placed a Nikon F2 in the vacuum chamber after it had been submerged for about 1/2 an hour in a river.

After about 20 minutes we assumed all water had gone, the camera was then sent away for a service, it has worked ever since.

If you know of anyone who has access to a vacuum chamber, this will eradicate water the easiest and best way possible.

In case you don't know, water boils off in a vacuum.

In fact, water in my vacuum chamber will start boiling at 2 degrees C, which effectively means I have boiling cold water!

Mick.


Unfortunately, most fresh water is moderately hard and will leave a residue of conductive salt behind. The conductive salt will often short out the electronics, and so a quick rinse of the camera in distilled water (and the film) will often assist the vacuum treatment.

The distilled water wash is a must if the camera or lens went into salt water. In fact, several rinses would be advised.

PE
 

Greg_E

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I wonder how long a Shop-Vac would run pulling a partial vacuum before the motor burns out? You could make a chamber for things like this if the motor would last. Might take much more time to dry, but you should be able to pull a decent amount of vacuum with one and a good sealed container. Kep the vac running for a couple of hours and it should works almost as well as a real vacuum chamber (for this task).
 

Changeling1

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I wonder how long a Shop-Vac would run pulling a partial vacuum before the motor burns out? You could make a chamber for things like this if the motor would last. Might take much more time to dry, but you should be able to pull a decent amount of vacuum with one and a good sealed container. Kep the vac running for a couple of hours and it should works almost as well as a real vacuum chamber (for this task).

My cat I suspect turned on my Shop-Vac while I was at work- The upstairs neighbor said it started running at about 10:00 a.m. and continued to run until I got home about 11:00 pm at which time I turned the machine off. It seems to work as good as new.... I have no idea how many hours the motor is supposed to have by design. 12 hours is about a years worth of use for me anyway. :smile:
 

Changeling1

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I wonder how long a Shop-Vac would run pulling a partial vacuum before the motor burns out? You could make a chamber for things like this if the motor would last. Might take much more time to dry, but you should be able to pull a decent amount of vacuum with one and a good sealed container. Kep the vac running for a couple of hours and it should works almost as well as a real vacuum chamber (for this task).

My cat, I suspect, somehow turned on my Shop-Vac while I was at work- The upstairs neighbor said it started running at about 10:00 a.m. and continued to run until I got home about 11:00 pm at which time I turned the machine off. It seems to work as good as new.... I have no idea how many running hours the motor is supposed to have by design. 12 or 13 hours is equivalent to about two years worth of use for me anyway. :smile:
 

Greg_E

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I was thinking that it would probably pull 15 inches of mercury, but I'm not sure. That and a small radiant heat source should do very nicely. But again I'm not sure what kind of real world vacuum they will pull. Anyone have 30+ feet of pipe around to see how far it will pull water vertically?
 
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Mike Wilde

Mike Wilde

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An update on progress

I have been checking out 'what is in the can' every other day.

After two days:
The fixed focal length lenses came out fine, and clear.
The film in the daylight tank had dried to feel (in the dark, obviously) like dry film. I have not processed it yet (waiting to build up a backlog of 8 rolls before getting the E-6 batch mixed up)

The zoom lens is looking less clouded. I slid it through its movements, and all exposed parts of barrel that are visible are now coming out dry.

The slr is still dead. I peeled off the base plate, and a few water droplets remained inside. It went back in the 5 gallon bucket, with the zoom, with fresh dessicant beads for another two days.

The first batch of beads were one congealed mass of bumps. They now await a visit to a place with an electric oven (mine is gas), or a day in febraury when the relative humidity is incredibly low, when I will cook off the moisture adsorbed using the microwave.

After 4 days:The zoom continues to clear. I zoomed it in and out a few times to try to exchange air inside it with less humid 'fresher' air The desicant beads are still not fused together, so they stay, unchanged. The SLR mode selector is stiffer, so there must be water in the top as well as what was previously found in the bottom. Progressively carefully disassemble it. Now it is unlikely to work again, but it is a very interesting process to see what has been inside this little device that has harvested memories for me for the last 24 years.
 
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Mike Wilde

Mike Wilde

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
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Location
Misissauaga
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An update on progress

I have been checking out 'what is in the can' every other day.

After two days:
The fixed focal length lenses came out fine, and clear.
The film in the daylight tank had dried to feel (in the dark, obviously) like dry film. I have not processed it yet (waiting to build up a backlog of 8 rolls before getting the E-6 batch mixed up)

The zoom lens is looking less clouded. I slid it through its movements, and all exposed parts of barrel that are visible are now coming out dry.

The slr is still dead. I peeled off the base plate, and a few water droplets remained inside. It went back in the 5 gallon bucket, with the zoom, with fresh dessicant beads for another two days.

The first batch of beads were one congealed mass of bumps. They now await a visit to a place with an electric oven (mine is gas), or a day in febraury when the relative humidity is incredibly low, when I will cook off the moisture adsorbed using the microwave.

After 4 days:The zoom continues to clear. I zoomed it in and out a few times to try to exchange air inside it with less humid 'fresher' air The desicant beads are still not fused together, so they stay, unchanged. The SLR mode selector is stiffer, so there must be water in the top as well as what was previously found in the bottom. Progressively carefully disassemble it. Now it is unlikely to work again, but it is a very interesting process to see what has been inside this little device that has harvested memories for me for the last 24 years.
 
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