you'll need something to mix the chemistry in and 4 collapsible bottles, two 1L bottles for the developer and two for the blix. you keep used chemistry in one set and unused in another. that's so that you can replenish the volume in your trays. the volume of developer tends to decrease as you move prints into the (optional) stop bath, while the volume of bleach/fix tends to increase. you probably shouldn't use the color trays for anything else.
after mixing the juice, i pour 1/2 of the mixtures into the trays and 1/2 into one set of bottles. however, it's a good idea to use as little as needed so as not to expose it to the air too much. it's also a good idea to mark the trays with reflective tape so you can see them in the dark, at least until you get the hang of it. set up a wash tray running at 80 degreed F, and keep a hair dryer around for drying test strips/prints to accurately check the color.
you can get one of those kodak viewing filter sets and/or a neutral density transparency & test printer for making test prints, but i find all of those things useless. i do keep a notebook with standard filter packs for film/paper combinations under sunlight and tungsten, though.
you can use a tong(s), but i find it easier to use one chemical-resistant vinyl glove and rinse & dry it well after each cycle. i don't think this ruins the chemistry, and it's MUCH easier to work with tests strips and not waste too much paper.
so, to print, after i've got the chemistry set up and the bath running, i hang the glove over the edge of the sink near the developer so i can find it in the dark. i set the timer for 7 minutes or so (depending on the temp. of the developer as per the instructions in the Tetenal box: about 1.5 min for the dev, 30 secs for the stop bath, 1 min in the blix, and 2-3 min in the wash). i point the timer away from the enlarger and tape black cardboard to it to block the light.
if you don't have a standard "filter pack" for your paper/film combination, you can use the one on the box. it may vary from one emulsion to another, so write it down so you can vary your filter pack when you buy another box of paper. in other words, make a note of your filtration *relative* to the numbers on the box.
dial the filter pack into the color enlarger, or use something like the Ilford Cibachrome color filters and stick them into the filter holder on your black & white enlarger.
turn off all the lights (total darkness), expose the paper, open the easel, put glove on one hand, start the timer, grab the paper and stick it into the developer. agitate & touch the corners. when moving from one solution to another, let it drain for about 10 seconds, keeping it away from the glow of the timer.
voila! once it's been in the blix about 20-30 seconds, you can turn on the lights.
after it's been in the wash about 2 minutes, you can dry it with the hair dryer and check the color and exposure.
ok, that was quite a lecture
but i think you'll get the hang of it pretty fast. in fact i always feel a little wierd printing black and white because the lights are on.
