Pyrocat HD / Film combinations

After just two years of developing my own film I have reached the conclusion that I need to open my mind to other types of developers and processes. I shoot primarily MF with a Hasselblad, Rollieflex, and a Zeiss Ikon and have recently started shooting with a Leica. My primary film has been Tri X with some recent rolls shot using Vericrome that I had socked away in the freezer. My developer has been Rodinal. I process my film using small tanks and inversions. I enlarge with a cold light and I use Ilford FB IV and warmtone papers.

All in all I am pleased with my images as they have an "old world," warm feel to them that I find pleasing - MOST OF THE TIME. Yet, something is missing. I think it might be that snap, punch, boldness, richness, brilliance, etc. You get the picture (no pun intended).

Based in part on what I have read and seen on this site I have decided to delve into the world of Pyro so I ordered some Pyrocat HD, which I am expecting any day. Seems to me that this might be one way (among several others, I am sure) to get that extra snap in my negs. I have about ten unprocessed rolls of TriX and Verichrome awaiting processing.

For all you Pyrocat HD users out there could you tell me which film you use in MF or 35mm and why. What dilution, time, tempurature, inversion combinations have given you good results? What should I know about this developer before I start processing my film. What resources (web, books, etc) can you direct me to for more information about Pyro.

Thanks

check out unblinkingeye.com

we started using sandy's recommend times that you will find in his article on that site.

I prefer the PMk formula and have found that with rollfilm I prefer FP4+ or Delta 400. Both work extremely well in PMK.

steve simmons

For some general information about Pyro staining developers in general and Pyrocat specifically have a look at my article at http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html

I don't shoot 35mm B&W film and can not offer any advice about film and developer combinations.

However, for medium format work it would be extremely hard to beat the combination of Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100 and TMAX-100, especially if developed with minimal agitation. By minimal I mean agitate for about 1.5 minutes at the beginning, then for ten seconds every two or three minutes thereafter until the end of development time. Just letting the film rest increases adjacency effects and apparent sharpness. For TMAX-100 I woudl recommend about 15 minutes at 70F with the 1:1:100 dilution, *if using minimal agitation*.

Sandy

hblad120 said:

After just two years of developing my own film I have reached the conclusion that I need to open my mind to other types of developers and processes. I shoot primarily MF with a Hasselblad, Rollieflex, and a Zeiss Ikon and have recently started shooting with a Leica. My primary film has been Tri X with some recent rolls shot using Vericrome that I had socked away in the freezer. My developer has been Rodinal. I process my film using small tanks and inversions. I enlarge with a cold light and I use Ilford FB IV and warmtone papers.

All in all I am pleased with my images as they have an "old world," warm feel to them that I find pleasing - MOST OF THE TIME. Yet, something is missing. I think it might be that snap, punch, boldness, richness, brilliance, etc. You get the picture (no pun intended).

Based in part on what I have read and seen on this site I have decided to delve into the world of Pyro so I ordered some Pyrocat HD, which I am expecting any day. Seems to me that this might be one way (among several others, I am sure) to get that extra snap in my negs. I have about ten unprocessed rolls of TriX and Verichrome awaiting processing.

For all you Pyrocat HD users out there could you tell me which film you use in MF or 35mm and why. What dilution, time, tempurature, inversion combinations have given you good results? What should I know about this developer before I start processing my film. What resources (web, books, etc) can you direct me to for more information about Pyro.

Thanks

Click to expand...

I bet you want a short answer to this. Well - there really isn't one but I'll try:
For TRI-X rated at ASA 200, intended for grade 2 fiber paper using a condenser enlarger and capturing about 9 zones within the full range of the paper, I would develop 9.5 minutes at 70F in a small tank with 30 sec of initial aggitation and 5 seconds of aggitation every 30 seconds thereafter. Water stop and TF3 or TF4 fix for three minutes with fresh fixer. This is the combo I use for high contrast scenes It is at N for the most part.(that is one) For low contrast scenes, I use FP4 - rated at ASA 80 for 12 minutes - all the rest is the same. I will get 6-7 stops or so to print over the entire range of the paper. This gives me nicer punch and sparkle to a flat scene. You can also stretch out the TRI-X for N+2 by using 2:2:100 instead of the 1:1:100 for the standard developing listed above. For diffusion head enlargers, you may want to increase your development times by 15% or so. To print on Grade 3 or VC, you might want to reduce the times by 15% or so.

If you already exposed a lot of film at 400 ASA, Pyrocat HD is not the best choice for those rolls. You might try one (TRI-X/ASA400) like this - Mix p'cat at 1:1:150 and develop for 35 minutes with 30 seconds of initial aggitation and then aggitate for 5 seconds every 7 minutes. This partial stand development will push your film speed up and not hurt your contrast too much. It will make your negs a little grainier. Pyrocat will be grainier than XTOL or D76. MF negs will make smooth prints up to 11x14 usually but if you are going for 16x20 prints - stick with LF or use XTOL or Microdol (unless you are going for the grain)

On the slow side of things, if good tonality is a necessity, and punch try Efke 100 and 25. Both do well with 1:1:150 and minimal agitation.

Pyrocat HD & Ilford FP4

A combination that works well for me in the 120 film format (I shoot with a Hasselbad) is Ilford FP4+ at an EI of 100 developed by rotary processing in a Jobo. I mix the A&B pyrocat HD solutions 3:2:1000 and process for 7.5 minutes at 75 degrees. I am printing on variable contrast warm tone paper most of the time and this combination gives me a negative with all the information I need to make a fine print. You would have to adjust your time upwards of course if you are using intermitent agitation. I should also note that I am using Metol in the A solution instead of Phenidone.

Compared to Rodinal, which induces a mild shoulder, PyroCat ( for me ) introduces a mild upswept curve to a film with a long straight line. In that respect, I suggest they are a very compatible combination of developers.

Now, I do 8x1o contact prints on platinum and silver prints from 35. The important radical thought is this: if you make a 35 mm negative to a higher-than-suggested density, with minimal agitation, you get a look that is similar to platinum. The 'minimize grain at all cost' school of 35mm shooters stick to minimal density and they don't utilize the full potential of their paper, or film. Whether you use Rodinal or PyroCat, minimizing agitation and using negatives of fuller density may be the breakthrough you seek.