Ronald Moravec
Member
I started pyro development using the procedures outlined in Gordon Hutchings "Book of Pyro". That is deep tanks and a lift rod. I used three 8 reel Nikkor tanks held in a fixture.
Developer went in fairly clear, came out all oxidised. I worked fine but i got tired of the dark.
Looking to other solutions, I tried a normal 8 ox 35 mm single reel stainless Nikor tank. Fill the tank with developer, drop the loaded reel in under dark conditions, cap and invert.
Film came out beautifully and the developer did not oxidize because there was little air. The time had to be shortened 30% because the developer remained fresh.
The next step was 4x5 film in a JOBO drum and hand agitate by inverson.
Same basic procedure except I had to add more devloper after the top was added to fill the large air spce in Jobo tank tops which is normally an advantage, but not here. 1400 cc total I believe, 1100 to start and 300 more after the top was on.
One inversion per 15 sec for both set ups.
Developer went in fairly clear, came out all oxidised. I worked fine but i got tired of the dark.
Looking to other solutions, I tried a normal 8 ox 35 mm single reel stainless Nikor tank. Fill the tank with developer, drop the loaded reel in under dark conditions, cap and invert.
Film came out beautifully and the developer did not oxidize because there was little air. The time had to be shortened 30% because the developer remained fresh.
The next step was 4x5 film in a JOBO drum and hand agitate by inverson.
Same basic procedure except I had to add more devloper after the top was added to fill the large air spce in Jobo tank tops which is normally an advantage, but not here. 1400 cc total I believe, 1100 to start and 300 more after the top was on.
One inversion per 15 sec for both set ups.