You can play with the film speed and "lighting" selectors to produce odd apertures on the 250.
Of course, there are two aperture settings for each film speed on the 250 (as with the 100, 220, 230, 240, 340 and 350).
These cameras are basically aperture priority automatics.
With 75 (100) speed films, "Bright sun or dull day, also flash" is f/9, but switching to "Bright sun only" gives you f/18.
You can switch the film speed to 150, and turn the ring around the lens two marks toward Lighten. The "..also flash" setting is the same old f/9, but "Bright sun only" becomes more like f/25.
Go to 300, and "....also flash" becomes about f/13 whilst "Bright sun only" is roughly f/35 (At this point, you can't blame the focus. It's the resolution of the print itself as the color dyes sloppily migrate from the negative layer onto the print).
Although one can theoretically use 100 film at the 300 setting by turning the L/D control all the way to "lighten", I would recommend placing a two-stop ND filter over the electric eye (and not the lens) instead, as these cameras tend to underexpose, and it's nice to have the leeway on the L/D control (which, in reality, will change the shutter speed for a given aperture and light level)
With the above cameras, the 3000 film speed settings give you about f/9 for "Indoors without flash" and about f/42 for "Outdoors or flash" (Basically, Polaroid wanted the cameras to be "Hand-holdable" at about LV12, but 75 was too slow and they had to settle for LV13 with the lens wide open).
The 360 and the 400 series cameras have different apertures than above (changes that had to be made because flash exposure is set by distance rather than the automatic shutter, which in reality never worked well with flash in the model100 through 350 cameras)
On Polanoid you can see an outdoor shot I made with the film speed dial at 300 and the lens closed down with about a 1/20th sec exposure in bright sun.
The simpler cameras with only a "color/b&w" of "3000/75" switch give you no such options.
