Polarizers

[BAXTER]

Looking for opinions on good filters- Cokin vs B+W, etc....

Thanks!

 

[HuwEvans]

Personally I have a preference for B+W multicoated filters - they are certainly the best I have ever used. I do also use the Lee filter system though, when I'm using lenses that are just so big that glass ring filters get too expensive. The Lee system is very good, but the filters are totally uncoated, so as I say, for ultimate quality I prefer B+W. I imagine the same comments would apply to Cokin.

 

[William Levitt]

While we're on the subject of polarizeres, I have a question. I'm from the "old school" and on top of that, have done 85% of my work over the past 20 years in the studio, so my experience with polarizing filters is limited to the "linear" type.

Now I'm the proud owner of a Mamiya 7.

There is a special Mamiya polarizing filter made for use with a RF camera, but the price is prohibitive. Because of the inherent problems involved in finding the right amount of polarizng effect, I was wondering about the circular polarizing filters. Would they be more practical in this situation, and how do they work compared to the linear style?

 

[Mike Mahoney]

The effect of a linear and circular polarizer is the same .... the circular type is a requirement for modern AF and metering systems.

As to your Mamiya 7, either type would have the same effect, but the linear is cheaper. I'm seen information before on polarizers on RF cameras and ways to use them but I don't know where. You may want to research something besides the Mamiya filter .... I'm pretty sure it's out there.

 

[William Levitt]

I know that the linear pol filter from Herliopan is easy to use with a RF camera because of the scales on the outter ring, allowing the user to visually make the adjustments, note the position of the 2 rings, and then re-creat that position one the filter has been attached to the camera.

But my question is, do you use the circular pol filter in the same manner as the linear? Are there also 2 rings which need to be rotated in order to find the proper polarization?

 

[Skip]

William, the circular polarizers are functionally the same as the old regular linears. You visually twist one ring to the other until you get the effect you want. If they weren't marked, you wouldn't be able to tell the two apart by just looking at them.

 

[Jorge]

Certainly B+W or Heliopan would be the best choice. It really is not much a matter of the coating as to the kind of glass used to make the filter. These two manufacturers use the best available glass to make theirs. Of course the coating is also the best posible.

 

[Robert Kennedy]

Well, I'm gonna become a heratic....

Personally I don't think it matters that much.

I know, I know....B+W is better than Cokin...glass better than resin...etc.

But I have used both cheap Cokin polarizers and expensive glass ones, and I really can't see the difference! I can't! I swear! There is a bit more flare possible from the cheap Cokins, but a lenshood fixes that in a jiffy.

So in the end I'd say that it comes down to cost and comfort. If you feel comfortable and can afford a pricey polarizer, then go for it. If not, get a cheaper one. The difference is minimal if any....

 

[Prime]

If you're using color film and want to warm the image as well as polarize it, then you may be able to save some dough in the long run by springing now and killing two birds with one stone, so to speak. In other words, a warming polarizer can make life easier and cheaper.

I bought the "Moose" warming polarizer (made by Hoya, I think), and it's a lot easier than using two filters. The warming color of it is not as yellow as I want, though. It looks fairly brown to me. If you get a warming polarizer, I'd recommend that you check the color to make sure it's what you want. Occasionally I've noticed a significant amount of flare or spreading of bright highlights when I use this filter.

 

[jwrupnorth]

I find myself using the Lee glass 4"x4" polarizer in its holder, and attached via a 77mm step-up ring to whatever normal lens I happen to be using at the moment.
Some complain that this filter is a bit too brittle for rough-and-tumble field work, and I can confirm that if you drop it on a large rock, you will possibly develop a delightful crack somewhere on one edge or another... which will reinforce the discipline of caution and care when handling filters.

I tried a Tiffen warm polarizer in hopes it would warm up Kodak's lovely E-100VS. I know... What ever came over me that made me mess with something that ain't broke.
Alas, after I got the results back from the lab, I determined that the warming also produced the slightest yellow cast, similar to the warming that is created when using any of the 81 series warming filters. Whether this cast is somehow emphasized by altitude (I often shoot above 10,000 ft.), I'm not sure, but the effect was disconcerting enough, when I compared the image with one shot using a standard linear ((Lee) polarizer, thaat I quickly retired the warm polarizer.

 

[M.A.Longmore]

I have a mix of B+W, and Tiffen.
Visually I can't see the difference.
A few weeks ago I bought some Rolev filters, these are plastic P.O.S. .
Still can't see the difference.
But I give the premium brands the benefit of the doubt.

 

[Martin Aislabie]

I now use B+W Filters instead of Hoya ones - as I find they don't stick/jam-on to the front of the lenses at all.

This is mainly a problem when you put them on at one temperature and try to take them off at a cooler temp - the casing of a B+W Filter is made of brass, which is what my lens barrels are also made from - so no differential expansion/contraction with temperature.

Whether there is a discernable optical difference between manufacturers A v B - I am sceptical

If you buy a screw in Polarizer - try to get one with a slim mount - the filter barrel is considerably thicker on a Polarizer compared to a conventional filter and it is quite easy to get into problems with vignetting on even moderately wide angle lenses.

Martin