Old Kodak Rapid Fixer

[ricksplace]

Hi folks.

Small gloat here. The College where I work is revamping their photo labs to be more in line with multimedia programs. They are only keeping a limited amount of film based facilities (thank heavens for the film production program!). Several Beseler 4X5 colour enlargers with lens turrets went to an area high school where one of the teachers is a photo enthusiast and is starting a film based photo club. I managed to score an old Beseler 45 condensor enlarger (big blue beast) complete with neg holders and lenses (50,80,135 Componons) that nobody wanted. I also scored some Kodak Rapid fix in the two gallon (concentrate) containers. It is dated as received in 1995. It looks OK, not discoloured, but I don't have the hardener part for all of the fixer I got. My question is, can I use just part A without the hardener for paper? Should I use it at the regular dilution (1:7)? I do have some hardener that I thought I would mix and use for film. I thought I'd ask here before I try it. BTW -I got four -two gallon containers of concentrate. I have a few film buddies that are going to get some.
The best part? All of this stuff was going to the dump, so I got it for free. God bless digital.

Rick

ps. I gave my old "testrite" 4X5 condensor enlarger to my friend's dad. He's well into his eighties and is just like a kid with a new toy. He used to shoot 4X5 and still has all of his negs. Apparently, for the last few weeks, he only emerges from his darkroom for food, water, and bathroom breaks.

 

[Loose Gravel]

I believe KRF A lasts forever. I just bought 10 gallons of the concentrate and it had better last a long time. I didn't buy the hardner. (It turns out the the part B is the hazardous waste part and if you have the part B shipping you get dinged that extra charge.) I have never used the hardner and this is not a problem for my processes. I'd be surprised if you have 2 gallon containers. I have seen 1.25 gallons and 5 gallons, but nothing in the middle.

I mix mine the same for film as for prints. That would be 1:4. Then I used the quick fix technique advocated by Ilford.

Good score on the enlarger.

 

[fschifano]

I'd try mixing some up at the recommended dilution and give it the "clip test." Use a small piece of film, the leader off a 35mm roll will do, soak it in water for a couple of minutes, then dunk it in the fixer and see if it doesn't clear completely in 3 minutes or less. If it clears, you're good to go. If not, oh well, you tried.

Don't worry about not having the hardener. You don't need it for prints, nor for the vast majority of films produced today. Truth is, you are better off without it.

 

[ricksplace]

Hi Loose.

You're right. They are 5 gallon containers. Thanks for the advice regarding not using the hardener. What is the quick fix technique advocated by ilford?

Hi fschifano.

Thanks for the advice. Why is it better not to use hardener? Won't the films scratch easier without the hardener? Is there any difference in the hardness of the film emulsion once it is dry in regards to using hardener or not?

 

[DKT]

rapid fix A will go bad eventually, it's the pt. B (hardener) that lasts forever. Fix A can sulfide out and turns sort of yellowish and will form a precipitate when you mix it up & smell quite funky.

you can get the pt. B in different sizes if you want it--I use it in a deeptank line for running film, but not for tray processing prints.

 

[avandesande]

Most films are now prehardened, but I have found it helpful with easily scratched efke/adox films.

Modern tri-x will dull a knife.

 

[Loose Gravel]

ricksplace, Tray fix your paper in the 1:4 dilution of RF for 1 minute with good agitation. This gives a good fix, but the fixer doesn't penetrate the paper so deeply and the wash time for fiber paper is only 1 hour. More info from ilford.com

 

[fschifano]

I'm assuming that you aren't doing any reversal processing that will soften the emulsion, or processing at high temperatures above 80 deg. F. In cases like that the hardener can be useful. Otherwise, you don't really need the hardener because most modern films are already pre-hardened, making them scratch resistant without any additional treatment. I know one fellow who uses Efke film and he reports that the emulsion on these film is indeed soft and would benefit from a hardener incorportated fixer. Other than that, I can't think of any off the top of my head that really need a hardener any longer. All the films from the big 3 players, Kodak, Ilford, and Fuji, are pre-hardened so no worries there. The same goes for prints. Modern papers have a supercoat that protects the emulsion from small abrasions that might otherwise damage the emulsion. Resin Coated papers even more so. Using a hardener on these papers is overkill and will serve only to lengthen wash times.

 

[ricksplace]

Thanks folks. I mixed up some of the fix. Pretty funky smelling. The concentrate is clear. I mixed up a gallon to spec with hardener and tried the clip test. FP4+ dry into the fix. It cleared in 30 sec. Guess I'm good to go, funky smell and all. Thanks for all the advice folks. I think I'll use it without the hardener as per your advice.

Rick.