Nikkor T Convertible

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jack arnold

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I am shopping for a telephoto lens for my arca-swiss discovery. I am aware that I will have to purchase a rail extension, an adjustable support for the lensboard, and possibly longer bellows in addition to a lens. I would appreciate comments from forum members on the quality of the Nikkor T convertible lenses, and their usability with my camera

thank you

jack
 

rbarker

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By "convertible", I assume you mean that the rear element can be changed for a different focal length within the same group of current Nikkor T lenses? There are two groups of focal lengths, as I recall, within which the rear elements can be swapped.

I have a 360mm Nikkor T, and have found it to be a decent performer.

The advantage of the telephoto design, of course, is that the flange focal distance (the amount of bellows required) is substantially less than the focal length. The 360T, for example, has a flange focal distance of just 261mm, so it can be used conveniently on cameras with relatively short bellows.

The disadvantage with tele designs is that using tilts can be tricky, as the nodal point is actually well in front of the lens.

You can find specs on Nikkor LF lenses on their UK site at:

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Loose Gravel

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I have the 600/800 combo. Just the 600 would have been enough, but I picked up the 800 for next to nothing. The elements are slow to screw in and out as the threads are fine and dry. So mostly use the 600 and if I need 'more power', I blow it up a little. Using it with 45 and 57. Quality is good, as good as other quality glass today. The lens is heavy and large --- a real pig, so if you are going to tote it around, I hope you are strong or have a porter that is. In that respect I love the 450mm Fujinon. Small, light, and plenty of power for most things. One last thing, I use the 4" gels with a little holder I made to adapt to the large diameter.
 

John Koehrer

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Loose gravel:
If the threads are binding, you might try putting a little canning wax on the threads. Just gently rub a portion of the thread with the block of wax. I've used this on many tight spots with success.
 

Loose Gravel

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Shaggy, that's an interesting idea. I used the 800mm yesterday and had to change elements. The caps screw on and off the elements fine, but when screwing the element onto the back of the shutter, it sort of vibrates or chatters as I turn it. A little wax might do the trick. Thanks.
 

stevewillard

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I have the Nikon 360mm, 500mm, and the 720mm suite of lenes. I use them with my 4x5, 5x7, and 4x10. The 360mm does not cover my 4x10 camera.

I had the 720mm lens for years, but never really got a sharp image from it until I switched to a sturdier tripod head. I now have the one Bogen makes specifically for large format camera with an oversized quick release camera plate. I also started using a bungee cord that I rap over the front lens element, run between the legs of the tripod, and attach it to the rear standard. I then can draw the cord tight with a cord clamp. The bungee cord further stabilizes the movement of the camera for both the 500mm and the 720mm lenses.
 

harleygsb

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This does not address the Nikkor lenses, but is another option to think about. You can look at the top-hat extension boards. Ebony makes them and they are sold by many places, including Midwest. I have the F-Line Classic. I was considering the T ED 500, but ended up getting the Fujinon C 450mm with the top-hat board. Works great. Very sharp and much, much lighter than the Nikkor lens. The way the board works, you can add sections or buy multiple mounting boards and use the extension sections with different lenses. I have two sections in my board and with my standard rail and bellows, I can focus the 450mm pretty dang close. New, the Fujinon lens is cheaper than a used Nikkor. Just another avenue to consider.

If you are interested, call Jim at Midwest. You can drop me a line and I will send you photos of my setup.

Harley
 
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