need toning advice/info please

[Kim Lowe]

I've been doing more fiber-based printing over the past couple years, now that I have my own darkroom but I don't know much about toning. Can anyone suggest a good book for basic information on toning processes and products to use? I'm interested mainly in lengthening the life of my prints. The paper I use, for the most part, is Ilford warmtone multigrade glossy so if anyone has suggestions on specific toning processes or products to use with this paper I would appreciate any advice. Thank you!! -- Kim

 

[John_Brewer]

The Photographer's Toning Book: The Definitive Guide by Tim Rudman.

 

[ann]

Tim Rudman's book is certainly the most indepth book. Discusses all the processes plus more than you thought you needed to know. There are a couple of others that will give you some basics Toning and Handcoloring photographs by TOny Worobiec, Toning Techniques for photographic prints by RIchard Newman.


The warmtone papers will shift to interesting colors, so if you do not want that to happen you will need to change papers, or use Sistan.
Anyway TIm covers all this and more.

 

[Deckled Edge]

The short read, of course, would be Ansel Adams' The Print. He covers archival toning with Selenium and a short bit on Gold, Sepia, and Polytoner. With that you can spend a few bucks and play in the darkroom. Personally I have not needed to go farther than that, but if the need arises and the temperature in the Boston darkroom is 33 F., time for a good read, and Rudman's book is the one.

 

[blansky]

Kim;

Warmtone papers seem to be the best for toning. I will give you a couple of examples to try and see if that is what you like.

Ilford warmtone in Zonal Pro warmtone developer and then processed normally and then selenuim toned 1:9 for about 4-5 minutes will produce a nice warm brown print.

Ilford warmtone in LPD 1:6 and afterwards selenium toned 1:9 for about 4-5 minutes will give you a eggplant ( slightly purple/warm brown print).

Ilford warmtone in LPD 1:6 then afterwards in a sepia toner will give a yellow/brown print. Sepia is a two bath process. First the image is bleached away then in the second bath, the image is replaced with a sepia/yellow image.

In my experience selenium is easier to use than sepia because it a one bath toner and you can see the results immediately and remove the print when you like.

With warmtone paper you will always get a color shift when toning in selenium. With Ilford FB (normal) you can tone for archival and will not get a very noticeable color shift. Warmtone will alway shift the color.

Most toners smell pretty strong so use gloves and have proper ventilation.

Take notes on all your processes and then you are able to duplicate it when you wish to get similar results.

With Kodak Selenium mix it 1:20 and 1:9 and keep it in plastic bottles and you can reuse it indefinately. As the color shift slows down you will know when it is time to replentish it.

Both selenium and sepia are archival.

As others have said use Tim Rudmans book, it has lots of great information.

Hope this helps,


Michael McBlane

 

[Kim Lowe]

thanks for the toning advice!

Thank you so much for the advice and information! I bought Tim Rudman's book and am going to start playing this weekend with the examples posted here. I'm sure I will have more questions as I move forward. --kim