My Mockba 4 Filter Adapter 3D Invention

[F4U]

Ok, so "invention" is kind of stretching it, but this little adapter rind I just made works perfectly. My Mokba really is quite a camera when you don't want to drag out the 4x5. But with no way of putting a filter on it, or a lenshood, it wasn't much use to me. I already have a bunch of Series 6 filters for my Super Graphic, and the Series 6 lens hood/filter holder assembly. All I needed was a way to get it on the Mockba. So I whipped up this adapter ring. It's made in 2 pieces, the lens half and the lens hood half. Unlike the Graphics, the lenshood fits inside the adapter ring. And the ring fits over the lens. Then glued the 2 halves together with E6000 glue. It couldn't have been done as a 1-piece because of the stop ledge inside. It took a half dozen or more prototypes till I got a snug fit at both ends. I suppose there's a chance the Graphic hood will vignette the 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 negative. If so I'll dispense with the Graphic hood and just use a flat Series 6 retaining ring to keep the filter in, and design and print another lenshood to fit the assembly. What I really like is that when focusing, turning that little knurled wheel on the camera is no fun. This assembly lets you focus much more easily by just turning using the lenshood instead.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Looks good. Sort of a custom version of the old Series filter adapters that had a slide-on ring for assorted size lenses.

Most likely that lens hood will not vignette. Looks very similar to the extension on a Kodak Medalist 6x9 camera.

FYI, the thread diameter for Series VI is 44mm x 0.75 I think, if you want to try roughing in threading on your prints.

 

[F4U]

I've just souped up my Ender 3 and am waiting on some .2mm tips. Maybe I will be able do do some threads. But on this project it's not necessary. Everything friction-fits perfect. I'd have to fall off a cliff with the camera to knock the filter/lenshood assembly off the lens. I'think I can onsider this another done project. Nice short break from building that Me BF-109

 

[ic-racer]

Nice!

 

[Xylo]

A long time ago, I had a similar problem with a Graflex lens that had no threads. Here's the solution I came up with.

Filters for Lenses Without Threads

Filters for Lenses Without Threads: Old lenses do have a certain charm... and many quirks. This is often the case for older American made lenses like this Graflex Optar 135. While the lens still works just like new, it does lack a feature that we now take for granted: a filter thread.…

www.instructables.com

Those were the days when I didn't have a 3D printer. But it worked so well that I would still do it the same way today.

 

[F4U]

A long time ago, I had a similar problem with a Graflex lens that had no threads. Here's the solution I came up with.

Filters for Lenses Without Threads

Filters for Lenses Without Threads: Old lenses do have a certain charm... and many quirks. This is often the case for older American made lenses like this Graflex Optar 135. While the lens still works just like new, it does lack a feature that we now take for granted: a filter thread.…

www.instructables.com

Those were the days when I didn't have a 3D printer. But it worked so well that I would still do it the same way today.

Yes, I remember those days. All sorts of different filter sizes, several different cameras, and buying a whole bunch of different adapter rings of all kinds. Till you get out in the field and have to start fiddling through your camera bag to come up with the right adapter(s). Till this Ender 3 came along and I started studying Freecad. You won't believe the many different kinds of parts and useful things I've made. I'm not just one of those ninnies who makes Star Wars helmets and masks, and silly junk. This is a very useful tool. Not quite a machine shop, because plastic can never be metal. But you'd be surprised how some modification and redesign of metal parts, applied to plastic, can fix you up with something just as rugged for what you need it for. Ive got Series 6 filters here. Hasselblad bay 50, 49mm, 52mm, 58, 62, 72, Wratten gelatin...you name it. Right now I am working on a filter holder that is practically "universal" for the equipment I have. As we speak, my trusty Ender 3 with its new .2mm tip is making my first prototype, Until now, everything has been done with the stock .4mm tip. Screw threads were always hit and miss.If this turns out I'll post stl files.

 

[Xylo]

Till this Ender 3 came along and I started studying Freecad.

I use the same workflow. And the number of things I designed with those two is just insane. When you want something that doesn't exist, it's the best way to go.
And the Ender is quite fun when it comes to customization. I call it the "Honda Civic of 3D printers".
So far, on mine I added: flat bed springs, filament runout sensor, filament guide, a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint, a webcam, an Octoprint shutoff button that sends the signal to the software, glass print bed, LED lighting, wire management, an SD card adapter, screw thread crank knob, vertical screw shims for better alignment, a vertical shaft flex coupling.... I'm probably forgetting something.

So far, I've used Freecad to make a filter holder for my Omega, design a few pinhole cameras, modify existing pinhole cameras by Schlem, adapt weird lenses to Nikon F mount, make lens caps. I even made a LTM adapter that has a rangefinder coupling so I can use point & shoot lenses on my Fed and my Zorki. This one was insanely hard to measure so that it would all work together. But that pinhole camera that takes 35mm is the one that I would say broke my soul as it took 6 months to design, probably 5 or 6 variations including test prints. I spent a whole spool just on the failed prototypes!

 

[F4U]

I use the same workflow. And the number of things I designed with those two is just insane. When you want something that doesn't exist, it's the best way to go.
And the Ender is quite fun when it comes to customization. I call it the "Honda Civic of 3D printers".
So far, on mine I added: flat bed springs, filament runout sensor, filament guide, a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint, a webcam, an Octoprint shutoff button that sends the signal to the software, glass print bed, LED lighting, wire management, an SD card adapter, screw thread crank knob, vertical screw shims for better alignment, a vertical shaft flex coupling.... I'm probably forgetting something.

So far, I've used Freecad to make a filter holder for my Omega, design a few pinhole cameras, modify existing pinhole cameras by Schlem, adapt weird lenses to Nikon F mount, make lens caps. I even made a LTM adapter that has a rangefinder coupling so I can use point & shoot lenses on my Fed and my Zorki. This one was insanely hard to measure so that it would all work together. But that pinhole camera that takes 35mm is the one that I would say broke my soul as it took 6 months to design, probably 5 or 6 variations including test prints. I spent a whole spool just on the failed prototypes!

I've made a promise to myself to you guys to deliver stl's on a Mockba, Speed Graphic, and Nikon F filter adapter. All day I've struggled with the Freecad ThreadProifle workbench trying to map internal threads. I had to shut it down for a little fun before I went out to murder somebody. I know this is getting far afield from the intent of my thread, but here you go. this past year I had finished restoring my receivers, working beautifully. The full deal--new caps, resistors, alignment, whatever. But do you have any idea what the matching speakers cost, AFTER you've waited till eternity for one to pop up for sale? So, I got a Neptune 4 Max and made my own . These are exact matching speakers to te last detail. The only difference between mine and the originals is mine will do like Frosty the Snowman if you carry them out to sit in the July sun. (ask me how I know).

 

[Xylo]

I have a vintage space age sound system that is missing the speakers. I'll have to do the same.