Mods to Paterson Orbital for 10x8 film

[Tom Stanworth]

Just thought I'd let you know what I have done and why, in case you are considering using one for film.

I wanted a simple daylight method for 10x8 film, so tried my old orbital.

Problem one - it leaked light. I only found out where the flaw was by accident, as I washed and dried it in a hot airing cupboard, it expanded and voila: the crack became visible. Superglue fixed this.

Problem 2 - Clearing the fiilm base. Normally the film can suck to the base of the orbital tray and not clear. I bonded some fibreglass drying mesh to the base to prevent sticking. The film now rises and falls a few mm and solutions get right underneath.

probelm 3 - The convex runners that keep the (what should be paper)_ close to the base of the tray and therefore under solution cut gouges out of the emulsion of the Maco up100 (Efke/pl100??) I was using. This film is known to be soft, but this made me concerned for its use with ANY films. Solution. I cut of the runners and filed the edges smooth. I figured the film would not rise nearly far enough to 'hit the roof' now.

Result. Using 200 to 400 ml developer, evenly developed and scratch free....finally. Stil not getting density from this film in pyrocat (bizarre I know as efke pl100 is raved about in pyrocat, assuming my maco up100 is the same stuff - sure looks like it)......off to try DDX (to rescue some flat negs) for more shadow and I hope overall density! I have used the pyrocat even at 2:2:100 with 400ml, so with 8ml each A+B, it not due to a shortage of dev! Why does this Efke/pyrocat combo work for evryone else and not me!

Tom

 

[John_Brewer]

Interesting stuff Tom. To stop my film sticking to the base I used a glue gun and dabbed random spots on the orbital base which seems to have worked. Not had a problem with the runners yet with deving 4 x delta 100 5x4 sheets. I'm about to dev classic pan 5x7 soon though so will do a test run as I guess classic pan, maco & efke may come from the same factory....

 

[Clueless]

They came with a drift-by temp slide rule that suggests that loss of temperature will be a factor. How critical is the temperature requirements for that developer (not familiar with same)? What is the length of time for developement and the ambient temperature?

 

[waynecrider]

I scored the base with a razor knife and sanded the edges and base. Picked this up from one of the Hicks and Schultz books. Never had a problem with the runners with film.

 

[Tom Stanworth]

As I intended to use Efke film, scoring anything was out 100%! This emulsion in this stuff is like half set jelly! I tried glue but teh stuff kept coming off or not setting (wrong glues I guess). I bet with 99% of other films, the runners would not do any harm. With the efke, it had removed all the emulsion in two line!

Yes temp drop is an issue. I started at 20 degs ambient and then increased temp (when times became silly) just to get some constrast from the duff film I tried to dev. I was pretty sure that I was not going to overdevelop so just went for it on temp and time. I have never produced such bad (flat and shadowless) negs!

Tom

 

[Dave Miller]

I used slow setting epoxy (24hr), five very small blobs under each negative position are all that is required to allow liquid underneath the negatives. Since it settles as it cures there are no sharp edges to cause problems.

 

[BarrieB]

200 to 400 Mls of Developer for an 8 x 10 sheet ? What is the minimum amount of solution as recommended by the maker of this machine ??
Barrie B. ( not having ever seen one in the flesh )

 

[Dave Miller]

I think 200 to 400ml is way too much, I use 100ml for 4 number 5x4 negatives. I didn't know the tank would hold so much without spilling!

 

[Dave Miller]

I think 200 to 400ml is way too much, I use 100ml for 4 number 5x4 negatives. I didn't know the tank would hold so much without spilling!

Just to check the point about liquid quantities I’ve just been into my darkroom and checked the measures I use. Those supplied by Paterson with the Orbital Processor hold 60ml, obviously enough to develop a 10 x 8 inch colour print in RA4 chemistry. The measures I use (because my first processor came without the measuring cups) hold 120ml which I use on a one shot basis for up to four 5 x 4 negatives.
Why use more, in fact I shall try processing 4 negs with the 60ml measures, just to see if that is sufficient.

 

[Chris Lee]

I starting using an orbital about 6 months ago, and had exactly the same problems as Tom and oddly came up with exactly the same solutions. I have also been using the motorised base to provide continous agitation, but the little red pegs caused uneven dev and every so often the film would "jump" over them, so I replaced them with thinner longer plastic poles that touch the lid when in place which seems to have cured both problems!!

I use about 200ml for 4 5x4 negs, and don't have a spilling problem.

 

[baronfoxx]

mods to orbital tray

i solved the problem of 10x8 film sticking to the bottom of the tray by scouring the bottom (of the tray!!) with the ball head cutter from a Dremel power tool. Had no further problems.
I use 100ml of solution on a power base unit

 

[Clueless]

This has been an interesting thread and makes me wonder what other "uses" have any of you created using the OP's design and features? Making masks, litho processing, separations come to mind. Could it be put on a dish warmer to maintain temperature?