Metal 16mm camera for serious use: Gami, Richo16, Goerz Minicord , others?

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ic-racer

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I bought four 16mm cameras in the mid 80s. Of these four the Minolta QT was the best and I have since been using it for some serious work. As you submini people know, this is a plastic camera with an aluminum skin. I would like to move up to an all metal camera with a little better build quality (like my Minox) that still uses 16mm film.

I have reasearched the Rollei 16, Gami, Goerz Minicord and the Richo 16 but have not found much info from people that actually try to use these cameras for some serious work. Perhaps these cameras are just collectors items and no one uses them anymore.

Personally I think the Rolle and Gami might be kind of big (though I have never held either in my hand.

Price is not much of an object as the Gamis are about $300-400. Realistically this is less than any lens I ever purchased for 6x6, and I am going to be using the 16mm for a serious body of photographic work.

Other thoughts would be to just stay with the Minolta (I have about 10 cassetts) and get another as a backup. Also, I could just concentrate on the Minox, however, the 16mm film is a little easier to process. My dream camera would be like a 16mm Minox.
 

Roger Hicks

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I bought four 16mm cameras in the mid 80s. Of these four the Minolta QT was the best and I have since been using it for some serious work. As you submini people know, this is a plastic camera with an aluminum skin. I would like to move up to an all metal camera with a little better build quality (like my Minox) that still uses 16mm film.

I have reasearched the Rollei 16, Gami, Goerz Minicord and the Richo 16 but have not found much info from people that actually try to use these cameras for some serious work. Perhaps these cameras are just collectors items and no one uses them anymore.

Personally I think the Rolle and Gami might be kind of big (though I have never held either in my hand.

Price is not much of an object as the Gamis are about $300-400. Realistically this is less than any lens I ever purchased for 6x6, and I am going to be using the 16mm for a serious body of photographic work.

Other thoughts would be to just stay with the Minolta (I have about 10 cassetts) and get another as a backup. Also, I could just concentrate on the Minox, however, the 16mm film is a little easier to process. My dream camera would be like a 16mm Minox.


NOT THE MINICORD. Film location is far too 'iffy'.

Best I've had has been the Minolta 16 used with correction lenses (no focusing mount, so you need 'em).

Have you considered a Tessina? (OK not 16mm but about the same size and a LOT bigger neg at 14x21mm -- the latter from memory).

Cheers,

R.
 

Chaska

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I use a Rollei 16, and while it is a better camera in my opinion than the Minoltas, it has no manual settings. So you must rely on a 40 yr old selenium meter to set the exposure. I was lucky in that mine cost $13 and it worked. To me the Rollei has a more solid feel and the lens performs a bit better. Check out Subclub.org for a complete rundown of models, I beleive they have a top ten list as well.
 
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My Vote goes to the Edixa 16. A wounderfull piece of camera design, by Mr. Waaske who later developed the Rollei 35.

The Edixa takes the same casettes as the Rollei (so called Rada-casettes), but unlike the Rollei, it takes perforated or non-perforated (Rollei: perforated only) Film, which makes Film almost no issue.

Lens is (on most) a Xenar 25mm/2.8, focusing from 0,4m to inf.
 

mgb74

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What about the Mamiya?
 
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ic-racer

ic-racer

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A standard Minox doesn't qualify?

- looking to be educated.
I love my minox but processing the film is very tedious to get good results whereas the Ilford HP5 16mm single perf. move film fits nicely in my JOBO processor and the plastic reels give excellent processing results.

The minox film fits in a modified JOBO reel but the film has to be put under some pressure with some spring tension (I can post my method if you are interested) to keep the emulsion from touching the inner groove of the reel to ensure even rotary processing. It takes 5 minutes to load each film on the reel. Not too bad, just tedious.
 

Roger Hicks

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I love my minox but processing the film is very tedious to get good results whereas the Ilford HP5 16mm single perf. move film fits nicely in my JOBO processor and the plastic reels give excellent processing results.

The minox film fits in a modified JOBO reel but the film has to be put under some pressure with some spring tension (I can post my method if you are interested) to keep the emulsion from touching the inner groove of the reel to ensure even rotary processing. It takes 5 minutes to load each film on the reel. Not too bad, just tedious.

A friend of mine described Minox developing (even with a Minox tank) as 'developing a watch spring'. I certainly find 16mm a LOT easier.

But then, if I want grainy, small-format pictures I load my Pen W with Delta 3200...

Cheers,

R.
 
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ic-racer

ic-racer

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Updating an old thread here. I just got another Minolta 16mm. This one is the 16 Type I. I took it apart for a CLA. The initial pictures were quite low contrast. As expected, all six lens surfaces were hazy. Good news is that there was no permanent coating damage. The glass and coating was pretty crystal-clear when I removed that haze.

I am very impressed at the simple and durable inner components of this camera. Certainly it will outlast many other cameras. I have been pretty busy with a new job, so I don't have the pictures to post for a 'how to do it' CLA on this camera. However, here is a site that already shows it. http://webspace.webring.com/people/ps/submini/repair.html
 

elekm

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If you want to go the 110 route (is that 16mm?), there is the Rollei A110 and the Pentax 110 SLR. Plus, two Minolta SLR models.

I have a Rollei 16S. It has a focusing (zone-focus only) Tessar lens. But at 25mm, I think the lens' depth of field will handle most focusing errors.
 

anon12345

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I have a Keystone A-12 Criterion 16mm movie camera that does stills. You can take a ton of stills on a 100' roll of film. It's all metal, but it ain't small. Sorry, NFS. :smile:
 
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ic-racer

ic-racer

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If you want to go the 110 route (is that 16mm?), there is the Rollei A110 and the Pentax 110 SLR. Plus, two Minolta SLR models.

I have a Rollei 16S. It has a focusing (zone-focus only) Tessar lens. But at 25mm, I think the lens' depth of field will handle most focusing errors.

I'm a big Rollei fan but just can't get into the 16S because of its inability to set exposure manually and its large size. But, with the wide-angle Mutar, it makes it one of the only 16mm cameras with a wide angle lens. I'll probably get one some day.

If they start making some 110 in B&W I'd love to get the Rollei A110 and the Minolta SLR.
 
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ic-racer

ic-racer

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If anyone knows of a source of super 16 B&W Negative fim, I'll be looking for a fresh roll soon. I got 100 feet of Super 16 HP5 Negative about 9 years ago and its almost gone. They stopped selling that quite a few years ago.

Here is one place I'm going to check out: http://www.tapesuperstore.com/72blwhne200t1.html
Seems too good to be true, 100ft of Kodak Double-x Negative super 16 for $24 fresh sealed.
 

mgb74

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You might try Goathill Photo. They (he) generally sells slit film but may have a source for long lengths of 16mm. Is the Double-X Negative single or double perf?
 
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ic-racer

ic-racer

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Is the Double-X Negative single or double perf?

Good question, the "Super16" link on their website took me to the film, but the description doesn't say.

I have about 35 minox cassettes that need to be reloaded, so I'm planning on getting a bunch of 9.5mm film strips from Goathill but I have never dealt with them in the past.
 
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