Medium format and IR-Film

[haddock]

Hi All

So far I've been using infrared film only with my 35mm equipment. Now I wanted to give it a go with my Mamiya 645 Super. I packed my Mamiya, some IR-films (Maco), my changing bag and spend a weekend in Dorset UK. When I tried to load the first roll of IR-film I encountered the first problem. How do I advance the film to its start mark? (obviously I couldn't see the film in the changing bag). I just advanced the film a few spins and hoped it was OK.
Then I had the next problem when I tried to unload the film. How do I lick the paper to fix the film end?. And where do I put the film after having it exposed. 35mm film is easy - I just put it back in the box but with 120 film there is no box. In the end I left all my films in the changing back. I havn't developed them yet so I can't tell you if they are OK

Some professional tips on how to use IR-film on location would be greatly appreciated.

Stephan

 

[Jon King]

I've used Maco IR film in a KO200, where you also need to line up the start mark on the film with a red dot. I had no problems in subdued light - take a peek in the changing bag, out of direct light. I actually used a jacket.

Direct sunlight, however, is a problem. I got lazy & kept a roll loose in my camera bag for a few days, including some time open in sunlight. The last two or three frames were imprinted with the frame numbers, through the paper!

I normally put my exposed roll in the foil from the new roll, inserted open end first into the film box (if I have it).

 

[Nige]

I've shot a couple of rolls of Maco (and a few Konica) and IMO they both can be loaded in subdued light. The last one I did with my back to the direct sun and it was fine. I also try to jam the exposed roll back in the paper it came out of but have decided maybe carring some tinfoil might be a better option. I loaded my 1st roll of Maco in the dark (Mamiya 645 1000s) but can't remember what I did about the alignment mark.

 

[glbeas]

I've never had a problem with Konica loading in the light. I try not to do it in direct sun but haven't been too picky about it either.

 

[gr82bart]

I use Scotch tape when unloading. Beats licking the roll in the dark bag! LOL. Seriously. Scotch tape will do the trick and it is easy to manoeuver in the bag.

I have never used Maco film, but have been using the Kodak respooled 70 mm Aerial IR film from www.davidromano.com. Comes in a plastic container which is a bonus. Kodak IR film has more depth of range into the IR spectrum than Maco or Konica. Very nice film.

 

[haddock]

Thanks for your tips.
I think tape or rubber-band is a good idea. For storing the exposed film I will try to find a suitable metal box (pipe tobacco tin?). Unfortunately I've advanced the film a bit too far in the changing bag, the last frame is cut of.

BTW, I've now developed my Maco IR films and was surprised how intense the IR-Effect is (I've only used a normal Cokin red filter 003).

Just in case you want to know. I have set my Mamiya to 25ASA and metered through the red filter. The films were developed in AGFA Rodinal 1+40 for 9 min @ 21C. The results are very nice (although I'll need to improve on subject matter

Stephan

 

[Aggie]

..

 

[Ed Sukach]

</span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Aggie @ Apr 3 2003, 09:37 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> Thanks for the tech info Haddock. I had thought about using it, but shied away when I heard it had to have a 89c filter. Nice to know lesser is good to. </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
I've been using Konica 750, Ilford's SFX and MACO 820 with a run-of-the-mill R25 filter for some time now. I've never thought the very slight "added IR effect" was worth the opacity (read: can't see a damned thing through the viewfinder) of the 87 or 89's.

 

[Nige]

Good to hear a 25 is working for Maco, I only recently picked up a red in suitable thread size and after using an orange with little effect, had cobbeled together a 'E6' filter which gives great IR effect, but costs about 6 stops of light... I've been developing mine in Rodinal 1:100 for 18-20mins. Which reminds me I need to order some more Maco.

 

[haddock]

I thought you might be interested to see one of the images I've taken with the Maco IR film. I have submitted one to the 'Technical Gallery' just for your pleasure

(Gardens of Athelhampton). You may need to wait a day or two before it appears.

 

[fhovie]

I have used the Maco 820 for 4x5 and the Konica IR film for 120. The Konica 120 gives a very nice IR effect with a red 25 filter - I had no trouble loading in the shade. The Maco 4x5 is expensive and for me - so far - has not been as predictable as the Konica but it is the only choice I know of for 4x5. I really like the big negative for less grainy prints. My lates success with the Maco 4x5 was with a Hoya IR filter http://www.hovation.com/html/WebApril03/pa...pages/azir1.htm I am pretty happy with this one.

 

[glbeas]

If any of you playing with the Konica 750 happen to have any Techidol laying around it works quite well with Konica, taming the unruly highlight contrast and making a very printable negative when processed at the times recommended for TP at EI 25. It gives an EI of 12 to 25 depending on time of day.
It seems to be the only thing Technidol is good for!

I wouldn't go out of my way for it unless you need the extra speed though. Rodinal 1:75 at 9 min EI 9 give nearly as good results.

 

[Ole]

I developed some in Beutler's a while ago (from the same trip as the postcard). Will mail and post one when I get home next week. Worked just great

 

[fotobob]

I have had no problems loading Mac IR film in indirect light. As far as storage after, exposure is concerned, I use a "Tupperware" container lined with Aluminium foil.

 

[fotobob]

I think that I found the answer to the IR Fogging fear. This paragraph was taked from a Kodak Data reoprt from Eastman Kodak . The full report can be read on their porfessional wed site.

This film has no anti-halation layer and therefore exhibits two associated effects: 'light piping' and halated highlights. The 'light piping' means that infrared radiation entering the film structure, at say the leader, is able to internally reflect within the film base along into the bulk of the film within the cassette. This problem is exacerbated by the felt light trap on the cassette being less effective in infrared than in visible light.

Since the film , that we use ,has no tongue we avoid the "Light piping". The paper backing on roll film in impervious to infrared light. I feel that this "loading in total darkness" has become a myth based upon the 35mm problem.

Keep loading your camers out of direct sunlight and enjoy the medium.

 

[WRSchmalfuss]

ROLLEI IR 820/400 Film

I use Scotch tape when unloading. Beats licking the roll in the dark bag! LOL. Seriously. Scotch tape will do the trick and it is easy to manoeuver in the bag.

I have never used Maco film, but have been using the Kodak respooled 70 mm Aerial IR film from www.davidromano.com. Comes in a plastic container which is a bonus. Kodak IR film has more depth of range into the IR spectrum than Maco or Konica. Very nice film.

The ROLLEI IR 820/400 film is much more sharper, and has a great tonlity, as the above mentioned Ir films, and is a lot cheaper too.

Cheers