magic823 said:I have an article in the Recent Articles and Chem Recipes on how to make your own. Check it out.
Steve
Thanks John,John_Brewer said:Don, I know Eric Nelson has one recipe on his website, another recipe is in Farber - let me know if you want a copy of it, both are liquid. I'm looking to explore kallitypes for gum over but will buy the dry stuff from B & S since the liquid has a use by date.
J
donbga said:Also what % solution does one have when the FO is mixed in aqueois form? 27%?
donbga said:There is also an article on the B&S web site for making dry FO. Either method seems like a lot of work and brings up the question, "Is making FO cost effective vs. purchasing dry FO?"
donbga said:Art Craft has a bit better price on FO compared to B&S, both are equivalent products according to Mike Jacobsen at Art Craft.
Don Bryant
donbga said:Art Craft has a bit better price on FO compared to B&S, both are equivalent products according to Mike Jacobsen at Art Craft.
If you value your time, most definitely no, IMO. The quality of the B&S stuff is very good and it's very consistent. I've had mixed results with Artcraft's. B&S makes their's in-house, Artcraft is getting it from another supplier, I believe. I'm not knocking Artcraft, I'm a very happy customer of theirs. It's just that good, consistent FO is important if you want to make consistently good pt/pd prints. And compared to the other costs that go into making a print, the cost is negligible. For an 8x10 print that costs between $2 and $3 in materials, roughly 15 cents is in the ferric.donbga said:"Is making FO cost effective vs. purchasing dry FO?"
Thanks Kerik. After mulling the whole thing over I agree making FO isn't worth the effort.Kerik said:If you value your time, most definitely no, IMO. The quality of the B&S stuff is very good and it's very consistent. I've had mixed results with Artcraft's. B&S makes their's in-house, Artcraft is getting it from another supplier, I believe. I'm not knocking Artcraft, I'm a very happy customer of theirs. It's just that good, consistent FO is important if you want to make consistently good pt/pd prints. And compared to the other costs that go into making a print, the cost is negligible. For an 8x10 print that costs between $2 and $3 in materials, roughly 15 cents is in the ferric.
Kerik said:If you value your time, most definitely no, IMO. The quality of the B&S stuff is very good and it's very consistent. I've had mixed results with Artcraft's. B&S makes their's in-house, Artcraft is getting it from another supplier, I believe. I'm not knocking Artcraft, I'm a very happy customer of theirs. It's just that good, consistent FO is important if you want to make consistently good pt/pd prints. And compared to the other costs that go into making a print, the cost is negligible. For an 8x10 print that costs between $2 and $3 in materials, roughly 15 cents is in the ferric.
Don, It is quite easy to make a liquid Ferric Oxalate. Dick Stevens's book on the Kallitype list three methods for making Ferric Oxalate. I have also included it in my book. The second method listed in Steven's is the way I make mine, and have been since 1994. The chemicals are not so hard to come by, but as you go up in volume, you really start to see a saving in price. I have it listed on my web site. I don't know if John meant to refer to me, or Eric Nelson ( I have not checked out Eric's site for some time). If you have l;imited lab ware, you may want to follow the other advice and just stay with B&S, but if you have any adventure in you, it takes some time as it does need to settle but it really is quite easy.donbga said:Thanks Kerik. After mulling the whole thing over I agree making FO isn't worth the effort.
Don
Hi Eric,EricNeilsen said:Don, It is quite easy to make a liquid Ferric Oxalate. Dick Stevens's book on the Kallitype list three methods for making Ferric Oxalate. I have also included it in my book. The second method listed in Steven's is the way I make mine, and have been since 1994. The chemicals are not so hard to come by, but as you go up in volume, you really start to see a saving in price. I have it listed on my web site. I don't know if John meant to refer to me, or Eric Nelson ( I have not checked out Eric's site for some time). If you have l;imited lab ware, you may want to follow the other advice and just stay with B&S, but if you have any adventure in you, it takes some time as it does need to settle but it really is quite easy.
Eric Neilsen
donbga said:Hi Eric,
Wish I did have Steven's book as you know it is a rarity. I do have the facilities for making the FO, however as Kerik noted valuing ones time is a consideration. However the most important issue for me is how long the FO will stay useable and what % concentration would I have.
Thanks,
Don
EricNeilsen said:I didn't know it was a rarity : ) I picked it up years ago at Photo Eye in Santa Fe when I lived in Taos and made regular trips to The PLatinum Gallery delivering work.
EricNeilsen said:What are you going to use it for? the requirements for ferric can be slightly different for different processes.
EricNeilsen said:and your own potassium oxalate,
EricNeilsen said:For an investment of $180.00 you can make 2.5 liters of liquid ferric oxalate. I can forward to you a method of making it or you can go to the site that Sandy posted for Jeffrey and download how to make powdered.
EricNeilsen said:AS part of making ferric oxalate, one converts ferrous to ferric. If you can do this during the process of making it, you can surely do it to stuff you already have. You can't stave off the process for ever though. Sandy was going to try and freeze some. He may be getting ready to thaw it?
EricNeilsen said:Concentration of your liquid can be best estimated by specific gravity. In Stevens book there is a neat chart that the University of Notre Dame Science department whipped up for him. Is it definitive? Well no, but short of anything else it is a bench mark that I have used for 12+ years and it hasn't failed me.
EricNeilsen said:In the life time of print making, what are a few hours? if you have the lab ware and can get the H2O2, I can sell you a small amount of AFS- Ammonium Ferrous Sulfate and if needed Oxalic acid, and you can then see for yourself. The best judge of how something will work for you, is YOU.
WOW!donbga said:The last I checked abe books had a copy for $235! More than I wish to pay.
Kallitype and palladium printing.
Done that and it wasn't difficult just a bit messy. Making several gallons during one session wasn't that time consuming.
And I but my potaasium carbonate and oxalic acid in 50 lb bags , both only costing around 65.00, so for that little investment, I can make 25 gallons of developer. Quite a saving over what B&S sells potassium oxalate for.
Sure send it to me.
I think he will thaw it out this summer. As an experiment I've frozen some as well.
I suppose I could make a batch from powder and then measure the SG as a reference.
I've not been able to locate the bomb grade H202 and frankly I'm a bit leary of keeping the stuff around. As for the AFS I may be interested in getting some from you if I can't locate a source. I've got plenty of oxalic acid.
I have had no problem with it. I don't have animals or children in my darkroom as it is a separate building in an commercial / industrial space.
Thanks for taking the time to discuss the procedure. I do like to save money and not paying 50 cents a gram for FO would be nice.
Don
sanking said:When Jeffrey Mathias tested various batches of ferric oxalate in the 1990s he found that the B&S ferric oxalate was about 89-91% pure, the Artcraft FO 95% pure. See Dead Link Removed and in Chapter 6 click on Formulas for FO Sensitizer Solutions.
This information may or may not pertain to current supplies. However, I obtain my FO from Artcraft and can state for a fact that in my work it has always been of consistently high quality.
Sandy
Kevin Sullivan said:Eric,
I just want people to understand the chemistry of FO so that they don't go around quoting Mathias's numbers as some sort of proven fact. His entire study is flawed, as my post above indicates. I never say you, or anyone else practices bad science. I'll leave that claim strictly at the feet of Jeffrey Mathias. But his complicated fan dance might mislead some otherwise well intentioned folks.
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