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Lucky SHD 100 - Your Experience?

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So the 4x5 I received came in a box that looks like that but smaller and contained the film inside two layers of plastic bags. I opened mine in a changing bag so I can't say for certain the bags are black/lightproof.

Thanks I wonder if they packed my 5x7 inside an 8x10 box? I guess I will leave it for now.

Edit: Refix is also advising to leave it in the outer box.
 
Here's my experience with SHD100 (not to be confused with SHD 100 Pro), in factory-rolled individual cans of 35mm. The words on the boxes are mostly written in Chinese (see second image of my scanned box).

Putting aside the atrocious light piping that all SHD films have, it shoots fairly well. I like the very clear base with a easy-to-handle thinness (could be a candidate for reversal process?) My first roll I developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 10 minutes, I was happy with. Resembles Foma 100 in some aspects; nice contrast on a sunny day, easily scanned.

The second roll I developed in leftover Rollei Supergrain 1+12 for 6:00, and the gradation was very satisfactory. This roll had weird mottling even if the film was not expired. Was it the film? Was it the dev? Possibly user error? I'm not sure. Here's what that looks like (noticeable in the sky):
 

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Here's my experience with SHD100 (not to be confused with SHD 100 Pro), in factory-rolled individual cans of 35mm. The words on the boxes are mostly written in Chinese (see second image of my scanned box).

Putting aside the atrocious light piping that all SHD films have, it shoots fairly well. I like the very clear base with a easy-to-handle thinness (could be a candidate for reversal process?) My first roll I developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 10 minutes, I was happy with. Resembles Foma 100 in some aspects; nice contrast on a sunny day, easily scanned.

The second roll I developed in leftover Rollei Supergrain 1+12 for 6:00, and the gradation was very satisfactory. This roll had weird mottling even if the film was not expired. Was it the film? Was it the dev? Possibly user error? I'm not sure. Here's what that looks like (noticeable in the sky):

That's a very different type of pattern in the sky than what I normally see as mottling. Almost like some kind of chemical reaction within the emulsion itself. Strange for sure.
 
Here's my experience with SHD100 (not to be confused with SHD 100 Pro), in factory-rolled individual cans of 35mm. The words on the boxes are mostly written in Chinese (see second image of my scanned box).

Putting aside the atrocious light piping that all SHD films have, it shoots fairly well. I like the very clear base with a easy-to-handle thinness (could be a candidate for reversal process?) My first roll I developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 10 minutes, I was happy with. Resembles Foma 100 in some aspects; nice contrast on a sunny day, easily scanned.

The second roll I developed in leftover Rollei Supergrain 1+12 for 6:00, and the gradation was very satisfactory. This roll had weird mottling even if the film was not expired. Was it the film? Was it the dev? Possibly user error? I'm not sure. Here's what that looks like (noticeable in the sky):

I saw mottling on the leader of factory loaded film. The bulk film has not shown this so far. Perhaps the factory
loaded film is an older batch.
 
I saw mottling on the leader of factory loaded film. The bulk film has not shown this so far. Perhaps the factory
loaded film is an older batch.

Did the mottling you saw look the same as The Ghost picture above? My Lucky 100 120 film arrived this morning, so I guess I'll find out for myself. I'm still doing a developer and EI test on Adox HR-50 film but will run a roll of lucky through my Hasselblad today. I think I'm going to develop it in Pyrocat-HDC for the first try. What do you think a good starting time for Pyrocat-HDC 1+1+100 normal not semi-stand would be?
 
Did the mottling you saw look the same as The Ghost picture above? My Lucky 100 120 film arrived this morning, so I guess I'll find out for myself. I'm still doing a developer and EI test on Adox HR-50 film but will run a roll of lucky through my Hasselblad today. I think I'm going to develop it in Pyrocat-HDC for the first try. What do you think a good starting time for Pyrocat-HDC 1+1+100 normal not semi-stand would be?

No, I only saw it on the leader/trailer.
 
I decided to use my antique 1968 Hasselblad 500C with its matching 1968 12 back. One of the first things I notice when I was loading the 12 back was that the backing paper edges were ruffled cut like not being cut with a sharp cutter. The next thing I noticed was that when winding to the frame no. 1 on the backing paper I felt a little more resistance and thump as the got close to frame no. 1 on the backing paper. I hope the tape held the film to the paper because if it didn't it can make a big mess in a Hasselblad back. I'll know soon enough cuz I'm heading out the dorr to burn a roll.
 
Just developed the 120 roll of Lucky 100 and all went well. I'm going to try and get the images scanned tonight and report back. I used Pyrocat-HDC 1+1+100 @ 69F. I was undecided as to the times and took a stab at 13 minutes with very gentle rocking at 30 seconds. The negatives don't look bad, but I think they might just be slightly over-developed. I did see a very light touch of light piping on the edge of the negatives, but it wasn't as dark (dense) as Andy had. Also, I saw no marks on the beginning leader of film like Andy showed in his video. I will say, at least with my Hasselblad old 12 back, that when you get to the last frame you only have about 1/4 inch to maybe 3/8th inch of film left. The stain is certainly there for sure and I'm curious to see how these scan with no adjustments. I think I'll be switching to this film instead of Foma 100 for camera testing and the like. Maybe the more I play with it the more I'll use it for other things as well. I got 11 more rolls to find out anyway.
 
my 4x5 box was just delivered. heavy rain tomorrow and then overcast tues, so maybe wed I'll try to get out and shoot a few shots. the vineyards look great right now so maybe a few of my neighbors vineyard to give me something to shoot.

john
 
Today's Updates:

  • I continue to see good results with SHD 100 exposed at EI 80 and processed in PMK Pyro 1:2:100 for 11 min @68F

  • I am finding that with the two factory cassettes of 135x36 rolls I've tried, the first exposure is slightly fogged on one side. This would be indicative of an imperfect light trap on the cassette. This is further supported by the fact that the SHD 100 I have loaded myself from bulk, no such problem exists.

  • I have seen some inter-frame spacing issues with 120 on an Hasselblad A12 back as noted above. But I also so some slight variability with the factory loaded 135x36 cassettes, though not as bad as the 120. Again, I have not seen this from bulk loaded film. This most recent experience was with a just-CLAed Nikkormat Ft so I don't think it is the camera.

    I am beginning to wonder if the 135x36 cassettes are a problem and/or that both 35mm and 120 a rolled in such a manner that encourages frame spacing issues, but I'm not quite sure what the mechanism for this would be.
 
My spacing with the older Hasselblad 12 back (with the view window for frame one) had good spacing. The thing I noticed, compared to Kodak and Ilford 120 film is that both Ilford and Kodak have enough room after the last frame on the film itself for almost another shot. Not with Lucky 100, which left me just about the same unexposed end as the width between frames. I'll take some digi picture tonight before I scan the film and post the results. So far, I like the film and the way it stains in Pyrocat-HDC. I set exposure of this first roll at the box speed but ran three shots at 1/3 stop bracket. My densitometer is in storage so I'm going by feel, but it looks like an EI of between 50 and 64 might be best for me when using Pyrocat-HDC. I'd be happy getting a working speed of EI 80 that chuckroast get with PMK. Still, EI of 64 ain't bad for a claimed 100 speed film.
 
Here's my experience with SHD100 (not to be confused with SHD 100 Pro)
Welp, there are more of them?!
I notice that this "pro" packaging, more blocky retro looking (direct reference of a blog I found) was available until recently for SHD400 at Reflx lab.

I rambled somewhere sometime ago that this new SHD100 does not have the very open Halation that the very cheap (1-2€ a roll in EU) SHD100 that was sold up till about 15 years ago. The current film looks much more well behaved. As a 120 film user and with a Foma quality scare already I'm not actively seeking Lucky B&W but might be interesting to get a brick sometime, or even locally if I happen to be in Asia again.
 
Welp, there are more of them?!
I notice that this "pro" packaging, more blocky retro looking (direct reference of a blog I found) was available until recently for SHD400 at Reflx lab.

I rambled somewhere sometime ago that this new SHD100 does not have the very open Halation that the very cheap (1-2€ a roll in EU) SHD100 that was sold up till about 15 years ago. The current film looks much more well behaved. As a 120 film user and with a Foma quality scare already I'm not actively seeking Lucky B&W but might be interesting to get a brick sometime, or even locally if I happen to be in Asia again.

Based on the dye I see being washed out of the pre-wetting water, they've definitely put some effort into anti-halation.
 
Based on the dye I see being washed out of the pre-wetting water, they've definitely put some effort into anti-halation.

I saw the same thing. I always do a prerinse when I developed anything in a pyro developer or when using a replenished developer like Xtol-R where spent developer goes back into working developer and is topped-off with fresh developer. This Lucky 100 had plenty of halation dye when I emptied the tank.
 
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