List of Color Chemicals and Where To Get Them

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by Greg Davis, Jul 25, 2011.

  1. shoe

    shoe Member

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    Canadians are better off buying chems from the UK and shipping by air. Believe it or not it is cheaper , faster , and less headaches that buying from the US.
     
  2. bvy

    bvy Subscriber

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    I should qualify this. I'm stuck on a cruise ship and long messages are hard on my phone. I use the developer one or two shot then discard it. Reuse the bleach indefinitely. Filter and aerate it occasionally. Adding a stop bath and rinse between developer and bleach will help maintain it. With fixer, thoroughly rinse between bleach and fixer step. Do a clearing test occasionally. The fixer will exhaust eventually. Bleach, though, will likely become ineffective from gradual dilution before it exhausts. Replenish or replace when that happens.
     
  3. Kuby

    Kuby Member

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    This is interesting to hear. Can you supply some links? Keeping in mind I am looking to purchase the Kodak Flexicolor 5L chems.
     
  4. Kuby

    Kuby Member

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    No problem. I appreciate the clarification. Is there stop bath specific to c41 that you recommend? Otherwise it looks like I'm good to put in an order at UniquePhoto.
     
  5. bvy

    bvy Subscriber

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    I use distilled white table vinegar, 1+4 with water.
     
  6. MattKing

    MattKing Subscriber

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    I believe that PE has posted that acetic acid based stop baths (such as Kodak Indicator Stop and distilled white vinegar diluted) are fine, but citric acid based stop baths (like Ilfostop) are not.
     
  7. Kuby

    Kuby Member

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    Thank you both :smile:
     
  8. EdSawyer

    EdSawyer Member

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    you don't really need a stop, it is not called for in the Kodak manuals.
     
  9. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    Kodak has made the C41 bleach III more acidic to help the problem, and so with this bleach, no stop is probably needed. It is green in color. The red bleaches and blixes are nearly neutral and therefore a stop may be needed.

    PE
     
  10. Kuby

    Kuby Member

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    Thanks PE
     
  11. Tjw

    Tjw Member

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    Hey guys, giving BVY's chem list a try. As it's been pointed out, the SM stabilizer is no longer for sale at that website and is hard to find. I've been told THIS is a direct substitute but the Kodak manual says I must also purchase Stabilizer III to mix with it. Do I need Stabilizer III or is included inside the Final Rinse and Replenisher bottle?

    -Ty
     
  12. bvy

    bvy Subscriber

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    Modern color negative films don't require a true stabilizer. Final Rinse is all you need.
     
  13. Tjw

    Tjw Member

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    I didn't know that. Thanks for the help!
     
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  15. EdSawyer

    EdSawyer Member

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    PE hasn't Bleach III been the standard C41 bleach for a while now? I seem to remember it has been for at least the last 5-10 years? I have a huge batch of it I bought (the BIG container) but it lasts so long I haven't used it yet. It definitely smells/seems acidic, the regenerator seems that way too (which is also greenish)

    -Ed
     
  16. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    Bleach III is indeed the recommended bleach for C41 products, but older bleaches can be used.

    A final rinse is needed for C41 but a Stabilizer is also sold. The issue is now confusing because of no clear instructions by Kodak or Fuji. They seem to say that a final rinse is all that is needed.

    PE
     
  17. Kuby

    Kuby Member

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    Looking for confirmation regarding starters.

    As far as I understand:
    kodak 5l flexicolor lu developer replenisher requires a starter such as Kodak C-41 Dev/Starter LORR 1.2L. Correct?

    Does the bleach contained in Kodak Flexicolor SM (C-41SM) Processing Unit F2 require a starter?

    I put in an order at UniquePhoto and forgot to purchase starter for my developer. So I am kicking myself because the hazmat fees and the shipping costs are quite high, and now I'll have to pay them again for the starter. Wanting to make sure that I don't make the same mistake again.

    Thanks!
     
  18. bvy

    bvy Subscriber

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    You need starter for the developer only. You'll use all the developer but have starter left over for your next few developer purchases.

    The F2 bleach is used as is. The F2 fixer is mixed 1+1 with water.
     
  19. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    I have used RA4 replenisher with no starter with no apparent effect.

    PE
     
  20. Kuby

    Kuby Member

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    Awesome thanks guys. Here I go placing another order
     
  21. RPC

    RPC Member

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    But for clarity, you must use starter with C-41 replenisher to make developer, correct?
     
  22. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    Yes.

    I just use C41 developer. Much easier that way.

    PE
     
  23. Kuby

    Kuby Member

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    Hey y'all. I've got most of my chemicals now, just waiting on developer starter to show up, and should be in business in the next week or so. A few more questions:

    1. Regarding chemical storage: is it best to store this stuff in the fridge? Or is it okay to store it at room temp? I'm most concerned about the developer.
    2. How will I know when the fix is exhausted? I also have some TF-5 - Can I use this in a pinch if I run out of fix?
    3. Is the Final Rinse safe for the Jobo system and reels? I was told to use the Stabilizer supplied with tetenal kits separate from the jobo system and reels.
    4. Is Final Rinse a one shot chem? Seems like it probably is...
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2017
  24. bvy

    bvy Subscriber

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    No need to store developer in the fridge. Fill to capacity in glass or thick plastic bottles with good caps.

    Do a clearing test on fixer regularly. Negatives will look dense if the fixer is bad -- even in clear areas. I'm not familiar with TF-5.

    Final Rinse should be fine in a Jobo but I don't have one. Also it can be reused several times, but don't get carried away. If you get drying marked or the solution gets too discolored or muddy, mix fresh.
     
  25. AgX

    AgX Member

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    There are general warnings about using a final rinse with the film still on the reels or in the tank. The idea behind such warning is the thought that residue of the contained surfactant may end in the developing bath at the succeeding run. But just rinse your tank and reel after using the final rinse.
    An specific thought about doing the final rinse in a rotating Jobo is the forming of foam at that stage.

    Some people drop the film from the reel into a bassin with water to hang it from there. They then put the final rinse in that bassin.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2017
  26. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    I use the final rinse while on the Jobo reel and wash with very hot water after the film is removed. I have never had a problem.

    PE
     
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