Leica M6 Wetzler

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ofis

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After some thinking about buying a Leica CL I found a M6 Wetzlar chrome number 1712336. Does anybody know something more about this Leica? No problems?
It costs 1200 euros which is I guess a good price for a chrome one.

Thanks
Paolo
 

Lee Shively

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There is a good deal of information on the differences between earlier Wetzler and later Solms Leica M6's at www.cameraquest.com.

Except for some differences in the metering system, they're pretty much alike.
 

Claire Senft

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There is an M6 in excellent+++ condition for sale right now for $880.00. I know nothing about the seller. It is being sold from Singapore.
 

geraldatwork

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Not sure about the value of Euros vs Dollars but here in the US M6 cameras can be picked up for around $1000-1200 for a nice one with a recent CLA. A user for a little less.
 

rbarker

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Gandy's site, for which Lee provided a link, is a good source of information on the different Leica models and variations in markings and such. Some of the variations in markings have additional appeal to some folks - generally those who collect, rather than use the cameras. The Wetzler marking, for example, may have additional appeal, and thus carry some premium in price. Except for some of the "special editions", as I recall, the body materials are the same, unlike the lenses. Chrome Leica M lenses have brass barrels, and are substantially heavier (and usually more expensive) than the black annodized alloy models.

With bodies, the chrome vs. black issue is really a matter of aesthetics and personal preference, perhaps with a touch of practicality thrown in. For example, I have two otherwise identical M6TTL bodies, one chrome and one black. I use the black body for B&W film, and the chrome body for color. That way, it's easy to grab the one I want from the bag.

For an M6 that you plan on using, I'd pay more attention to features and general condition, rather than production location. With earlier production models, it's also a good idea to find out if the camera has had recent CLA servicing. I'd also give strong consideration to the reliability of the seller. The Leica market seems to attract more than its share of dubious sellers who often don't deliver what they're advertising.
 
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ofis

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rbarker said:
Gandy's site, for which Lee provided a link, is a good source of information on the different Leica models and variations in markings and such. Some of the variations in markings have additional appeal to some folks - generally those who collect, rather than use the cameras. The Wetzler marking, for example, may have additional appeal, and thus carry some premium in price. Except for some of the "special editions", as I recall, the body materials are the same, unlike the lenses. Chrome Leica M lenses have brass barrels, and are substantially heavier (and usually more expensive) than the black annodized alloy models.

With bodies, the chrome vs. black issue is really a matter of aesthetics and personal preference, perhaps with a touch of practicality thrown in. For example, I have two otherwise identical M6TTL bodies, one chrome and one black. I use the black body for B&W film, and the chrome body for color. That way, it's easy to grab the one I want from the bag.

For an M6 that you plan on using, I'd pay more attention to features and general condition, rather than production location. With earlier production models, it's also a good idea to find out if the camera has had recent CLA servicing. I'd also give strong consideration to the reliability of the seller. The Leica market seems to attract more than its share of dubious sellers who often don't deliver what they're advertising.

Thanks a lot. Actually the leica is in a shop. No CLS as it was belonging to a collector and it has never been used, so I think I will buy it.
 

Lee Shively

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If it's never been used, you may need a CLA. Actually, more of a LA, since the lube may have dried out and things may not synch properly due to non-use.

Try it first to be sure--fire the shutter many, many times at each shutter speed and move everything that should move. Run a dummy roll of film through it a few times to make sure it winds on and rewinds properly. And then run a test roll and check the frame spacing and shutter action. Also make sure the meter works and check its accuracy.

Even if it needs adjustment, it will be worth it in the long run. It's a great camera. I know you will enjoy using it.
 
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