TheFlyingCamera said:...does warming up the PoTox make that muc of a difference? I usually print with it at room temperature, and have been for the most part happy with my results. What would printing it warm do for me that it isn't doing at room temperature?
colrehogan said:Can you tell me how you are coating the Arches Platine? I mean, are you humidifying, letting it air dry for some period of time and/or are you double coating the paper? I'm just wondering as I'm still struggling a bit with this paper.
TheFlyingCamera said:Matt- does warming up the PoTox make that muc of a difference? I usually print with it at room temperature, and have been for the most part happy with my results. What would printing it warm do for me that it isn't doing at room temperature?
Steve Sherman said:Third image is an absolute home run. If there aren't 30 triangular shapes in that one photograph there isn't one.
Outstanding Matt
scootermm said:I used Arches Platine paper. Ive pretty some 8x10s with it once before but thought Id try out some 7x17 negs on it to see how I like it.
All four of these are printed on platine, palladium, with Na2, developed in Pot. Oxalate at 120degrees. Would love to hear what people think of them both as a group or as individual images.
Wow! 200F! With 120F potassium oxalate i get an ES of about 2.3, seems like you would need a real contrasty negative for 200F PO.Robert Hall said:You can heat up the developer to near 200F for a warmer effect. If you do a straight pd print in very hot developer, they are quite brown.
Very nice work Matt
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?