Large Format Lens...

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Wondered if any of you guys (or gals) know of a good resource for large format lenses (used)? I've checked the obvious and my usual internet haunts (B&H, Adorama, KEH, Calument, MPEX, etc. classifieds here and a few other sites) but not much luck. Locally, it's even tougher to shop the 'used' camera stores since the Hurricane(s).

I'm searching for a Fujinon 250mm f5.6 lens. If you have any suggestions on a site(s) or location that I could check, I'd sure appreciate it.

As always...thanks for any & all help!!
 

glennfromwy

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Forum member Jim Galli is a good resource and easily gets my two thumbs up.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Not the cheapest, but call Photo Gizzmo in New York (www.photogizzmo.com). Call--the website is not well maintained, but he has a lot of good LF gear in stock, and it's not picked over, because it's not on the web.

Lens and Repro would be another place that's not cheap, but has a lot of stuff. Also worth calling them, because the website is always out of date--www.lensandrepro.com.
 

Mongo

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One other thought: Give Jim at Midwest a call and let him know what you're looking for. If he comes across one he'll get back to you. He's very good about this.

Given that soft focus lenses don't come up too often, I'm not surprised that you're having trouble finding the 250/5.6. But it's got a good reputation, so it's probably worth the hunt.

Also, APUG does have a "Wanted Ads" section under the Classifieds; it's probably worth posting a note there.

Best of luck.
Dave
 

Jeremy

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www.keh.com has 2 of these lenses in stock.

Here is one for $286 250 F5.6 FUJINON-SF COPAL BULB, TIME (4X5)(62 MOUNT) WITH YELLOW SF DISK WITH CAPS, LARGE FORMAT VIEW LENS

And the other has a linked picture here:
Dead Link Removed
 

Charles Webb

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I have and use one of these lenses. It is very sharp when stopped down past
f 11 with the ( yellow dot disc) in place. With the disc out at wider apperatures f 8 or f 5.6 sharpness is acceptable but the lens really shines when used at f22 less either disk. With the ( Red dot disk) in place the softness is mainly at the larger lens openings the larger, the softer the image.. If the two discs, Red and Yellow are not with the lens, I woulden't buy it! I have never seen one of these discs offered as used. For me this lens is a keeper due to the fact that I can pretty much control negative sharpness. This soft/sharpness looks nothing like a Varito or adjustable Velostigmat. The Fuji like the Imagon can be adjusted to creat fuzzie mud if not careful. It does take a bit of practice to learn how to use these things, I am still learning! Charlie.....
 

Amund

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The 250mm f/5.6 has a 300mm image circle, so I guess you`ll have some coverage problems for 8x10.....

I have the Fujinon250mm f/6.7 with 398mm image circle... That is a great lens...
 

Mongo

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If you're looking for a 250mm Fujinon lens for 8x10, then the f/5.6 shouldn't be your first choice. It's not rated to cover the format (although I've heard of a vew folks who use the lens on 8x10, and sample-to-sample variability might have produced a few that would cover this size). In order of preference for Fuji 250mm lenses for 8x10, you should be looking for:

1. The 250/6.7. As blix mentioned, the image circle on this is almost 400mm, which is plenty for 8x10 with lots of movements. This is an older, single coated lens that tends to be expensive on the used market because of the large image circle. A true winner.

2. The 250/6.3. Slightly faster, but barely covers 8x10 with a rated circle of 320mm. The real circle is slightly larger on my copy of this lens, and I do have some room for movements. The sharp image on mine is probably around 335-340mm, although I've not measured it directly. A huge lens, this one is available with Fuji's EBC multicoating. It's very sharp, and is a fantastic lens for 4x5. (I bought mine for 4x5, and use it on 8x10 when it's the right lens for what I'm trying to do...which isn't often due to the limited movements.)

3. The 250/5.6. Like most soft-focus lenses you can get sharp image out of this one with very little work (just remove the discs and stop down a bit), but the circle isn't rated to cover 8x10. Even if you do get the lens to cover 8x10, the soft-focus nature of this lens (which is what gives it the high price tag that it carries on the used market) won't be of much use to you. At 8x10, you'll probably want a much longer lens for portraits. For 4x5 portraiture, though, this is a great lens. Smaller than the f/6.3 Fujinon, it has plenty of coverage for 4x5 and is a great portrait length for that format.

Best of luck to you.
Dave
 

JG Motamedi

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I did some shots a few years ago comparing a 250/6.7 Fujinon-W and a 240/9 Fujinon-A and a 250/5.6 Fujinon-SF. I was hoping to find that the SF could be used, when stopped far down, as a regular lens. However, I found that only at f/45 (where diffraction becomes the limiting factor, not lens design) and beyond was the SF usable as a "hard" focus lens. The SF, while a terrific soft focus lens, is not in my experience usable as a "regular" lens.
 
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Dorothy Blum Cooper
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Thank you all so much for answering my question. You answered it exceptionally well!!! In fact I had no interest at all in soft focus and wasn't aware that the lens I inquired on was indeed a soft focus lens.

That said, in addition to a lens of that approximate focal length, I want a good portrait (head and shoulders) lens. Suggestions?

Also...being new to 8x10, can someone explain to me what equates to what, regarding "inches" as to focal length? For example, what does a 10 1/2 inch lens translate to?
 

Nick Zentena

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10.5 equals 10.5. Do you mean in other formats? 300mm or 12 inches is sort like 43mm in 35mm format. Or 80mm in 6x6. But remember the different shaped format.
 

Amund

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10 1/2 inch lens=267mm
1 inch=2,54 cm
I haven`t tried many portraits with 8x10, but my 305mm lens was okay, and my 420mm R.D Artar is maybe better, I`ll try it sunday for some portraits.
 

df cardwell

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Hi Dorothy

I took a peak at your site before responding, Very vice work. I think you'll have fun in 8x10.

The "classic" portrait / headshot length for 8x10 is 18 or 19 inches ( 450 - 480 mm ). The most common 19" lens, over the past 30 years, is a 19" Red Dor Artar, an american lens designed for graphic art, but having pleasant charecteristic for people ( not excessively contrasty and cruel ). It is normally used in an Ilex shutter. Faster than an f/9 lens is problematic with a moderately long lens: the only practical anser is to use a pneumatic shuuter with an air bulb, which while limited in overall range, is deadly accurate at 1/20 of a second. It is a charming way to work, as well.

If you want to play that way, you can look at the range of lovely older lenses, from Tessars to Rapid Rectilinears... and that is another question altogether. But with a studio and a business, I think your first lens ought to be in a good shutter.

Longer than 19" becomes difficult to use: the camera's extension is great, the length of your arms needs to increase to reach the front controls. Nice trick ! A 24" lens ( 600 mm) can be very useful, but more often in the studio.

Shorter than 19" is not usually helpful when you are working up close. A 14" can be excellent, but you pretty much need to keep the lens level ( unless you want to put the emphasis on the sitter's shoes !)

Now, a 19" / 480mm lens is similar in look to a 60mm lens in 35mm, if you make an 8x10 print. The depth of field you get from a 60mm at f/4 will be the same on the 480 at f/32 ( if the prints are the same size ). Most 19 / 480 lenses apertures are limited by the opening of the shutter to f/9 or 10.

.

An excellent, and very classically useful, 2 lens set would be a 19" red dot artar and a 10" Kodak WF Ektar. With care, the 10" lens works well when you want to show the subject in her environment, as Adams did so well with Edward Weston and the eucalyptus tree.
 
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Dorothy Blum Cooper
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PERFECTAMUNDO!!! That's exactly what I needed to know (10 1/2 inch lens=267mm, 1 inch=2,54 cm). I did find a lens conversion chart that gave me a list of what the equivalents were (i.e.. 8x10 480 is equivalent to a 35mm's 65mm lens). I was having a hard time understanding what the 'inches' were equaling. Hope I'm making sense!

I truly appreciate all of this detailed information. MORE than helpful. Please...if there is anything else you can think of that I may need to know while 'lens shopping', just send it my way.

Oh, and df cardwell...thanks for the comment on my work. Appreciate you taking time to look at my site. I'm really looking forward to seeing what my work will look like in this larger format.
 

Amund

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Glad I could help Dorothy
I looked at your site, very nice stuff there, you really do nice people photography.
Good luck with the kids and 8x10. I have a five year old son I use for a model sometimes and making him sit still for the 8x10 takes heavy bribery...
:smile:
 

John Kasaian

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IMHO, A nice lens to start out with is a 14" Commercial Ektar or 355mm G Claron for full body shots---you'll be uncomfortably close for big head shots. The 19" Artars are great for a long lens on 8x10 for head shots and so would a 450mm Nikkor M. For something wider a 250 WF Ektar or a 240 G Claron would work nicely(at least mine do!) None of these are 'soft' lenses by any means. If you are used to shutters that perform and function like a modern shutter, go with the 450 M and 355mm G Claron and 240 G Claron which you'll find in modern copal shutters.

Good Luck and welcome to 8x10!
 
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