Kentmere Bromide Contrast Levels

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Ben 4

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I'm a happy user of Kentmere's Fineprint VC fiber who is looking to give their graded Bromide paper a try. If there is anyone who has used both the Fineprint and Bromide, I would appreciate anything you can tell me about the relative contrast levels of the two papers. Is Bromide grade 3, for example, comparable to Fineprint with grade 3 filtration? Or, is it a bit harder or softer? Is Bromide grade 4 capable of more contrast than Fineprint? Thanks for any tips and comparisons you can offer.

--Ben
 

vet173

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I have been using Kentmere bromide Gr2,3. I think you will like the paper. I can't see any normal range neg that would ever need a G4.Only as a special purpose effect. As to the crossover I don't know if I can help you. I develop in pyrocat. I find that the yellow in the stain acts like a contrast reducer when switching to VC papers. Not a problem, I just print at whatever increace in contrast that's called for. Just got my nuance paper yesterday and going to give it a try.
 
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Ben 4

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Kentmere's Answer

I posed this question to the folks at Kentmere, and am posting the response I received from Mark Donoghue in case anyone else should be curious:

"The graded will all be slightly higher contrast than the filtration."

--Ben
 
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I have been using Kentmere bromide Gr2,3. I think you will like the paper. I can't see any normal range neg that would ever need a G4.Only as a special purpose effect. As to the crossover I don't know if I can help you. I develop in pyrocat. I find that the yellow in the stain acts like a contrast reducer when switching to VC papers. Not a problem, I just print at whatever increace in contrast that's called for. Just got my nuance paper yesterday and going to give it a try.

I would be interested in your results. I tried to order Nuance and some film from J&C but they are out of stock. What developer are you using?

Jim
 

vet173

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I would be interested in your results. I tried to order Nuance and some film from J&C but they are out of stock. What developer are you using?

Jim
Jim,
Sorry for being so long in getting back to you, just noticed the reply. I just did a 21 step stoffer test with all my paper. The Bromide paper had the least DR, so it will work well with a .2 thinner neg than the others. Bromide F3 Dmax: 2.06 will max out at the10th step (1.37 density,base white .10 reflected, neutral color), F2 almost 12 (1.83 density). Nuance I think I'm going to like real well. G2: Dmax 2.16 prints to 13 (1.83 density, base white .13 reflectedcolor identical to bromide). G3: Dmax: 2.16 prints to step 12 (1.83 density, base .12 reflected). Galerie G3: Dmax: 2.30 prints to 21 (1.83 density base.11 reflected light cream color). MGIV warm tone at f2 filter Dmax: 2.34 prints to 12 (1.83 density, base .09 reflected). That one was a surprise. The Ilford paper was able to show well in the pack against papers that one would look at as higher grade stock. I think I will have to do the same for the regular MGIV. All papers fiber based. Developed in Dektol 1:1 3min.
When I made these paper test I made about 10 of each so that I can do different toning procedures. Then put them in a folder so I can have a reference to go to. I have a densitometer so I can do all the measurements. I have all values for each sheet recorded so when I tone I can measure how things changed. That way I will know what the exact effect of how I do things. It's the first thing I'm going to do with any paper from now on.
John
 
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Jim,
Sorry for being so long in getting back to you, just noticed the reply. I just did a 21 step stoffer test with all my paper. The Bromide paper had the least DR, so it will work well with a .2 thinner neg than the others. Bromide F3 Dmax: 2.06 will max out at the10th step (1.37 density,base white .10 reflected, neutral color), F2 almost 12 (1.83 density). Nuance I think I'm going to like real well. G2: Dmax 2.16 prints to 13 (1.83 density, base white .13 reflectedcolor identical to bromide). G3: Dmax: 2.16 prints to step 12 (1.83 density, base .12 reflected). Galerie G3: Dmax: 2.30 prints to 21 (1.83 density base.11 reflected light cream color). MGIV warm tone at f2 filter Dmax: 2.34 prints to 12 (1.83 density, base .09 reflected). That one was a surprise. The Ilford paper was able to show well in the pack against papers that one would look at as higher grade stock. I think I will have to do the same for the regular MGIV. All papers fiber based. Developed in Dektol 1:1 3min.
When I made these paper test I made about 10 of each so that I can do different toning procedures. Then put them in a folder so I can have a reference to go to. I have a densitometer so I can do all the measurements. I have all values for each sheet recorded so when I tone I can measure how things changed. That way I will know what the exact effect of how I do things. It's the first thing I'm going to do with any paper from now on.
John

John, thanks for the detailed information. It is a little hard for me to visualize. I don't own a densitometer and I judge my prints by how they look and feel. I shoot a lot in the shadows in low contrast light. a lot of my work is water rock and foilage and i try to adjust my development to the required density for the paper. It is the paper part that I have a hard time understanding. I've heard a lot of photographers who's work I admire praise the Nuance paper and I just hope that J&C get's it in soon. I'm meeting with a fellow Apuger this weekend to work on our 8x20's and he has a densitometer and maybe seeing the results will help. Thanks for the info.

Jim
 

Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Reviving an old thread here but I wanted some advice on getting the equivalent of a grade 2.5 on Kentmere bromide. I use 35mm most of the time so I need some extra contrast, and I usually print everything at G2.5 Should I go with G3 and reduce contrast with development, or would G2 be already contrasty enough?
 

vet173

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If you find that you will always want a grade 2.5 I would adjust developing time to more match the paper. Much easier thasn stretching graded paper. Different developers at different dilutions and times are also an option.
 

Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Well, I agree about future work, but my existing work functions ca. G2.5, so that's why I'd like to know if using G2 is a viable option for re-printing my negs.
 
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A print developer with glycin could also help in stretching the paper, as it will continue to develop the densities in the dark values continuously, but mostly leave the high values alone. Then adjust your exposure time to achieve the highs and the low values that you want. It gives you some room to play around.

I've used both the Fineprint VC and the Bromide. I like the Bromide better, especially with the Ansco 130 developer. It appears to me that there is slightly better separation in the low values with it.

- Thomas
 

juan

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I've found that I can sometimes adjust paper contrast with Ansco 130 by varying the amount of agitation in the tray. For grade 2.5, I'd try exposing on Grade 3, then develop with 30-seconds agitation followed by 1.5 minutes simply sitting still in the tray.
juan
 
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That's a good idea, like a modified water-bath development. The developer adjacent to the highlights would get exhausted or used up faster than in a low value area.

- Thom
 
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