Just got a GRAFLEX "23"GRAPHIC 120 ROLL FILM HOLDER...

[Dorothy Blum Cooper]

...now what? Seriously...I'm trying to find some information on google, yahoo, etc. before I start loading and shooting, but haven't had any luck (and yes, I've been to the Graflex site, but not alot of info on this particular piece). Anyone here have any input, tips, advice, warnings, etc? Any other write ups elsewhere that I'm missing? I sure would appreciate it!

 

[Nick Zentena]

I don't have that holder so I can only speak in general. You might want to mark your ground glass some how with the smaller area.

 

[Dave Parker]

Dorothy,

You can download a manual on the graflex roll film holders at the following address:

http://www.southbristolviews.com

Rich is nice enough to maintain some of the various manuals for graflex equipment.

Dave

 

[Dorothy Blum Cooper]

Dorothy,
You can download a manual on the graflex roll film holders at the following address:

http://www.southbristolviews.com

Rich is nice enough to maintain some of the various manuals for graflex equipment.

Dave

This is awesome, Dave...thank you so much for sharing this link!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[jd callow]

I have one and love it.

Dead Link Removed
Agfa Ultra 50, Sinar, Nikon 75sw, Graflex 23​

 

[ChuckP]

The manual will probably have loading info. A quick run through on how I do it. I do have the later lever backs. All directions looking from back. Takeup reel on the right. Make sure the count indicator is just past the end or between 8 and S. Probably you should turn the count knob counterclockwise until it clicks into position. I hear 2 clicks on my backs. No film in back. Use the winder to reach position 1. After it stops push the slider on rear to release it to move to 2. Keep doing this until you hit 8 and hit release. Winder should freely rotate. Wind the film around the front (backing paper rear against the pressure plate). Lineup the film start with the arrow on the back top left. Close back. Turn counter knob until it clicks into position (2 clicks). Wind film until it stops at position 1. Start shooting. The spacing on one of my backs was a little off so I adjusted the start point slightly and this helped.
Chuck

 

[Dorothy Blum Cooper]

Chuck...thanks for the walk-thru directions. Much appreciated. Hoping to put all of this info to good use soon!!!

 

[Neal Shields]

You don't say if the camera has a range finder. Some do some don't. If it does it must be calibrated to the lens, hopefully it is.

If not you have to use either ground glass focusing or scale focusing.

No problems if you have a ground glass but both the rangefinder and scale focusing depend on the right lens being with the camera and the rail stops being set in the correct place.

With older cameras it is always a good idea to exercise the sutter a few times before you take a picture.

If you can find someone with a shutter tester, test the speeds and make a card:marked speeds vs true speeds.

A good CLA is usually not economically justified.

Also be aware that those old shutters usually have three different retarding mechanisms which means that they don't always have to be off in the same direction.

You probably have a single or uncoated lens so use a lens shade.

Some of the old shutters will sinc with electronic flash and some won't. If it has an X on it it will and if not it might.

 

[mark]

Have fun with it. I have two and have really put them through their paces. Some folks complain that they are not as tight and flat as modern holders but I figure if you tighten the paper right from the start you get pretty decent film flatness. I have no problem with it. At least not that I have noticed.

 

[Neal Shields]

Also develop a system so you know when you need to roll the film. It is probably best to roll the film right after taking the picture but if you are like me, you will ask yourself 30 seconds later if you did, so maybe it is best to keep notes.

Also the Graflex is perfectly happy to let you "shoot" a whole roll of film with the dark slide in place.

 

[Neal Shields]

If you have a ground glass, you are going to be very tempted to make some close ups.

Be sure to figure in bellows factor into your exposure if you do.

(Note: if your rail stops fold down, you will want to pull the front standard all the way out to keep the rails out of the picture for close ups.)

Camera movements are a whole book and probably aren't something you will use a lot with roll film, but that little camera is up to the task of strightening out tilting buildings is used right and you have enough image circle.

The best site on movements is probably

http://largeformatphotography.info/