Just broke my cherry...

[finny99]

Just developed my first two rolls, they look pretty good, some are night shots with long exposures so we will see. They are hanging in the bathroom now. Was sweet seeing them when I finished and took the reels out. photoflo looks like its keeping them nice and clean. Now I just need to scan, will have to do at lab until I get one, at least im cutting part of the cost. The clips im using are great. I just slip them on shower hooks, gotta love those dollar stores !!!!
Whats a good time to let them dry, theey've been hanging since 11:30 am East time

 

[clogz]

Two or three hours of drying at room temp. will be good enough.
Developing film yourself, even sweeter is setting up your own darkroom....take it from me and few thousand others here at Apug.

Greetings

Hans

 

[finny99]

Yea, will be setting up darkroom in the near future. My fiance is cool with it and she knows its coming soon, yea seeing those prints coming up in the tray will be sweet, cant wait
cheers hans

 

[Lee L]

Congrats. Wait until you see your first print come up...

You did have me worried for a minute there. Thought you'd smashed up a Wista.

Lee

 

[gr82bart]

Looks like it was gentle and tender. The lust will now just build.

Art.

 

[finny99]

Ok they negs are dry but im wondering if my first crack at this worked out. My negs are a bit purple the image I can see fine but should they be purple? the ones I got done in pro lab arent a purplish tint. I developed for 12 mins agitating, stop bath 30 secs, the fixer I did for 4 mins its says to do 3-5 mins, I did my hypo for 2 mins washed in water for five mins, then some photoflo agitated 5 secs let sit for 30 secs then hung them up. So I guess my question is now. Should I even bother scanning these? Will they come out alright? By the way its TMAX 100 film. Also the rolls were shot with a canon AE1 which I later returned for exchange cause the shutter was sticking, so pretty sure the light seals were a mess, I am waiting on a seal kit for my exchanged AE1 cause they are pretty junk too. I followed info from this site
http://www3.telus.net/drkrm/filmdev.htm


Thanks

 

[Andy K]

Welcome to the addiction. Have you been examining them with a magnifying glass while they hang? I know I did the first few rolls I developed!

 

[Konical]

Good Afternoon, Finny99,

T-Max 100 shouldn't have a purplish tinge. Are you sure that all your chemicals were properly mixed? Did you use regular fixer? If so, your fixing time is inadequate. Even with Rapid Fix, the recommended time is 5 minutes with fresh fixer, and a little more won't hurt. 2 minutes in hypo-clear should be adequate, but I'd still wash for at least 10 minutes. Suggest you put the film back on the reel, and add a few minutes of fixing time, do the usual hypo-clear, and then wash well. The purple should disappear.

Konical

 

[finny99]

Yea, the thing is I cut them into strips before I did research on here, kinda hard to load on reel now. I used a hardening fixer, Kodak powder. I will fix longer next time, and wash for longer after hypo.

Cheers konical

 

[Bob F.]

As long as there is no visible fog on the film, they should be adequately fixed so no real worries there (but... if you can get them back in the fixer for another 3 mins it would not hurt ).

The tint will not stop you from printing or (dare I say it) scannnnn... scannnnnnnn... sssscanninnnnnnnn... (nope, can't say it!)... them .

Have fun, Bob.

 

[finny99]

How could I get them in the fixer if they are cut into strips? Is it possible?

Having fun already bob !! getting into this

 

[Bob F.]

How could I get them in the fixer if they are cut into strips? Is it possible?

Having fun already bob !! getting into this

Not easy... You could try loading them on to the reel one strip at a time - pushing each one along as far as it will go without overlapping the previous one. Agitate by lifting the whole reel up and down in the tank (no need for darkness now). Avoid any agitation that will make the strips overlap on the reel. You then need to give them a full wash again. I don't think using a tray will work - you might well get scratches that way.

Saying that, if there is no foggy looking grey areas on the film you are probably good to go.

Cheers, Bob.

 

[srs5694]

Determining fixing time can be tricky. One approach is to dunk a small bit of film (such as the leader that you cut off the roll when loading it onto the reel) into the fixer before you begin development. Do this in full light and time how long it takes the film snip to clear. Double this time for conventional films and triple it for T-grain films. That's your correct fixing time. When the clearing time for a given type of film doubles, the fixer is exhausted.

 

[finny99]

I think I know what happened when I mixed the fixer it was fizzing, someone pointed it out to me in another thread. I forgot to look at package and lower water temp, gonna have to dump that fixer and buy new, might just buy ilford fix, mixing D76 and hypo powder already

 

[joeyk49]

finny...."you don't know the POWER of the Dark side!!!"

...well, maybe you do,..... now...

Welcome to our little corner of Utopia. Now, remember, you must work in the darkroom at regular intervals, lest you begin to jones for the smell of fixer...

 

[Andy K]

How could I get them in the fixer if they are cut into strips? Is it possible?

Having fun already bob !! getting into this

Put the fixer in a large, very clean bowl, and then gently agitate the strips in the fixer, one strip at a time, holding an edge with some tongs or plastic tweezers.. Then wash them in a similar manner in another bowl filled with clean water.

I had a roll which was under fixed a while back, and had to use a similar method because my reels were wet and there was no way I would have been able to get the film back into them.