Ilford XP2 Super 400

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IsaacMTSU

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I read on here that it is possible to set the camera a stop down on the ASA (down to 200 instead of 400) and develop the film as a 200 speed in order to get a "deeper" exposure with less grain. Is this true? Also, how you would you go about telling the developer that the film says 400 on it but you want it dev'd at 200? Is there a DX code or something that their machine will read the speed as 400 and dev that way automatically..? [I'm new to film]
 
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tim elder

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I don't have much experience with Ilford XP2, but it is a common practice to overexpose it by a stop or so. Because this film is made like a color negative film (which is why it's developed in the same chemistry as color negative film), it is much harder to overexpose the highlights and "blow them out" than it is with a traditional black and white film.

You don't need to tell the lab anything, as you are still having it processed normally.

Tim
 
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IsaacMTSU

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What is this meaning on the second to last page:
Replenishment rates
Set replenishment rates for XP2 SUPER film as if it
is an ISO 200/24° colour negative film,
regardless of how it was exposed.
 

smieglitz

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Bottom of the first page says you process it normally (no need to pull), regardless of exposure. I find that XP2 loses shadow detail very easily and won't shoulder highlights badly, so somewhere around 125-200 is a good EI for it.

FWIW, a couple generations ago I tested XP-1 at various film speeds and development times. I found it worked best for me at EI 125 with standard processing. "Pushing" it only increased the base-fog level without any significant gain in true speed.

Joe
 

Aurum

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What is this meaning on the second to last page:
Replenishment rates
Set replenishment rates for XP2 SUPER film as if it
is an ISO 200/24° colour negative film,
regardless of how it was exposed.

This is only applicable if you are running a C41 continuous process . If you are using a commercial photo printing shop / 1 hour photo place, thats their job.

If you are developing it yourself using a tetenal kit just follow the instructions.

Basically its to reassure commercial developers and printers that just because its a film that gives black and white prints, it ain't going to wreck their chemistry

As regards DX codes/ setting ASA yada yada, heres the deal. If the camera reads DX codes, it will set the speed at 400 as marked on the cannister.
Either you can override this and set the speed dial to 200ASA (if fitted) and then just shoot as normal. If you don't have a speed dial, but you have an exposure compensator, set it to +1 (Stop) that will be the same as shooting at 200.

OR

Take whatever the meter says, then set the camera to manual and do either of the following
If it reads (say) 1/500 sec @ f8, you can either slow the shutter by a stop to 1/250 sec OR open the aperture a stop to f5.6. Whatever works. XP2 is a very difficult film to screw up even if you try really hard
 
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pentaxuser

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Roger Hicks, I suspect speaking for his wife who is the real advocate for XP2 super( her favourite B&W film and fine prints are evident from the books they write) talks of it being a great film at EI 200.

pentaxuser
 

Aurum

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I must admit I use it in old manual cameras, where I can just point and go.
Box cameras are a perfect use, because you'll pull an image out of the negative anywhere between ASA 50 to 800. You can even go to 1600 if you want, but the quality will be a bit grotty.
 
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