Hypo Dilution

[dpodeath]

HELLO!!!

I dont post much at all but i LOVE to read everyones posts.

I recently got into mixing my own formulas and i think in some weird way like it better than Store bought stuff. I developed some Arista.edu and was surprised when it didnt curl.....

So here are my questions..

I want to always mix fresh Developer and Fixer with the intent of always dumping them after the batch of film is done. One shot developer and i want to use fixer as a one shot too, meaning i want to only use water and Sodium Thiosulfate as a fixer. How should i dilute? how many Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate to one liter of water?

as of "just for the hell of it" moment i used 50 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate to 500 ml of water to fix two rolls of film and a test strip cleared in about a 80 sec.

2nd question.

Anti-Halation layer. im trying to get rid of it to create those halo effects like kodak infrared film. I tried soaking the 35mm film in water for about 2 hrs and it doesnt seem to do much. 120mm seems to wash off something right away but it doesnt seem create those halos. I tried taping the Kodak tri-x 320 film to the reverse side of the paper so the film was on the White side and not the black backing, so when the film was exposed and it had no anti-halation layer the light would pass through it and reflect off the white side. that didnt work too well either.

So im guessing you really cant rid of that layer unless you develop it or fix it? Also Because high speed films are more sensitive to light would that mean they would have a thicker or darker Anti-halation layer?

my final straighty at the moment is Lucky Films. When i look at the film i can see its very transparent. So im going to tape some Foil on the back of my 35mm camera and then load some lucky film and hope i can create halos.

i just realized that i have no real reason for wanting to create those halos other than i want to see if i can do it.

-charlie

 

[2F/2F]

You can try various materials on your pressure plate for the halos and/or breath some condensation onto the front of your lens. These will both soften the entire image, however. For the chemicals, pickup a copy of Photo Lab Index. Great reference book! I am sure they sell for next to nothing too.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

HELLO!!!

I dont post much at all but i LOVE to read everyones posts.

I recently got into mixing my own formulas and i think in some weird way like it better than Store bought stuff. I developed some Arista.edu and was surprised when it didnt curl.....

So here are my questions..

I want to always mix fresh Developer and Fixer with the intent of always dumping them after the batch of film is done. One shot developer and i want to use fixer as a one shot too, meaning i want to only use water and Sodium Thiosulfate as a fixer. How should i dilute? how many Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate to one liter of water?

as of "just for the hell of it" moment i used 50 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate to 500 ml of water to fix two rolls of film and a test strip cleared in about a 80 sec.

2nd question.

Anti-Halation layer. im trying to get rid of it to create those halo effects like kodak infrared film. I tried soaking the 35mm film in water for about 2 hrs and it doesnt seem to do much. 120mm seems to wash off something right away but it doesnt seem create those halos. I tried taping the Kodak tri-x 320 film to the reverse side of the paper so the film was on the White side and not the black backing, so when the film was exposed and it had no anti-halation layer the light would pass through it and reflect off the white side. that didnt work too well either.

So im guessing you really cant rid of that layer unless you develop it or fix it? Also Because high speed films are more sensitive to light would that mean they would have a thicker or darker Anti-halation layer?

my final straighty at the moment is Lucky Films. When i look at the film i can see its very transparent. So im going to tape some Foil on the back of my 35mm camera and then load some lucky film and hope i can create halos.

i just realized that i have no real reason for wanting to create those halos other than i want to see if i can do it.

-charlie

Fifty grams of hypo per 500ml just takes longer than the usual 200-400. It's probably more than enough active chemical to fix a roll of film, but don't try it with an evening's printing. Or T grain films.

But why not 300 and use it until your clearing time becomes excessive?

 

[fschifano]

About the anti-halation coatings. After you've exposed the film, they have no further use. Their purpose is to prevent light "piping" through the support at the moment of exposure. Wash it all you want, but you won't change the image.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

HELLO!!!

I dont post much at all but i LOVE to read everyones posts.

I recently got into mixing my own formulas and i think in some weird way like it better than Store bought stuff. I developed some Arista.edu and was surprised when it didnt curl.....

So here are my questions..

I want to always mix fresh Developer and Fixer with the intent of always dumping them after the batch of film is done. One shot developer and i want to use fixer as a one shot too, meaning i want to only use water and Sodium Thiosulfate as a fixer. How should i dilute? how many Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate to one liter of water?

as of "just for the hell of it" moment i used 50 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate to 500 ml of water to fix two rolls of film and a test strip cleared in about a 80 sec.

2nd question.

Anti-Halation layer. im trying to get rid of it to create those halo effects like kodak infrared film. I tried soaking the 35mm film in water for about 2 hrs and it doesnt seem to do much. 120mm seems to wash off something right away but it doesnt seem create those halos. I tried taping the Kodak tri-x 320 film to the reverse side of the paper so the film was on the White side and not the black backing, so when the film was exposed and it had no anti-halation layer the light would pass through it and reflect off the white side. that didnt work too well either.

So im guessing you really cant rid of that layer unless you develop it or fix it? Also Because high speed films are more sensitive to light would that mean they would have a thicker or darker Anti-halation layer?

my final straighty at the moment is Lucky Films. When i look at the film i can see its very transparent. So im going to tape some Foil on the back of my 35mm camera and then load some lucky film and hope i can create halos.

i just realized that i have no real reason for wanting to create those halos other than i want to see if i can do it.

-charlie

You'd be better off with an alkaline rapid fixer. Here is the recipe for Kodak's F8:

• Water 750 ml
• Sod. Thiosulfate 360 g
• Ammonium. Chloride 50 g
• Water to make 1.0L

The Ammonium Chloride reacts with the Sodium Thiosulfate to form Ammonium Thiosulphate and common salt. The salt plays no role in the fixing process.

 

[dancqu]

Sodium Thiosulfate - Penta or the Anhydrous

HELLO!!!
I want to always mix fresh Developer and Fixer with the
intent of always dumping them after the batch of film is done.
One shot developer and i want to use fixer as a one shot too,
meaning I want to only use water and Sodium Thiosulfate as
a fixer. How should I dilute? how many Grams of Sodium
Thiosulfate Pentahydrate to one liter of water?

As of "just for the hell of it" moment i used 50 grams of Sodium
Thiosulfate to 500 ml of water to fix two rolls of film and a test
strip cleared in about a 80 sec. Charlie

Straight unadulterated and fresh each session, that's the way
I use it. With 120 film I use 16 grams of the anhydrous in
500ml of solution. That would be 24 grams of the penta.
Those amounts are near the lower limit. I allow 10
minutes of regular intermittent agitation. Could
vary some little depending upon the film used.

Sodium thiosulfate can be thought of as a dry concentrate.
Keep the lid on the bottle and it will last and last and ... .
Certainly the minimalist's way. I treat paper the same
way. Dan

 

[Paul Verizzo]

Mega fixer tests

Since there seem to be some new readers on this topic, I'll link to my thread and experiments on fixers from April: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

If you go down about seven entries, you will find all my work in a pdf file. Please note that where I often say that a particular formula "fixed" in X number of seconds, it really should read "cleared." Tnx and a tip of the hat to PE!