How to load a 9X12 sheath?

How is film loaded in the metal sheaths for the 9x12 plate cameras? These thin holders/sheats only have single groove where the darkslide goes. Unlike the 'thicker' holders for 4x5 where two grooves are found, one for the film and the other for the slide.

The metal 9x12 sheaths appear to work better with glass plates. Sheet film loaded in them would either fall into the camera when the slide is drawn or else compete with the slide when the latter is restored, making the closing process hard.

One set of newly arrived holders came with clear glass plates in them. Some had sheet film still behind the glass. The former owner/user used the glass plate to hold the film in place to prevent it from popping out. The arrangement doesn't seem to be right since it pushes the film surface slightly farther back from the plane of focus. And having glass in the light path may affect the focus.

Question is, how do the other, more experienced users deal with film in these old style sheaths? I've even considered taping the film on the holder to keep them in place...

Here are some pictures of the two types of 9x12 plate holders I have used (configured for film). The first is a Zeiss plate holder with the film sheath removed (left) and the darkside removed (right). Film slides in the top of the sheath, and is held in place by grooves on the sides of the sheath. The sheath would normally reside inside the plate holder (middle), but was removed to illustrate. This type of holder works well, but I find them to be a pain in the ass to load in the dark.

The second picture shows three Kodak holders containing a drop-down film frame. The holder on the right (in hand) shows the film frame dropped, ready to load. You place the film in the frame and close the frame against the holder, where it locks. These holders are a pleasure to load in the dark.

Holders without a film sheath are then configured as plate holders. Someone not having access to a manufactured film sheath could possibly slip a piece of film over a glass plate, if there was enough room.

I hope this helps.

Ole has suggested jam on the glass- as a glue to hold the film. You would put it film out, though, not glass out. The added benefit from this method is better tasting images...

In all seriousness, the sheath that holds the film, seen on the left in DannL's leftmost picture, is put into the holder where you now have glass. Those holders which have glass plates in them are missing that part. Without it, jam might be your best bet, or "post-it note" glue.

DannL said:

... This type of holder works well, but I find them to be a pain in the ass to load in the dark. ...

Click to expand...

I actually find them easier to load than 4x5 DDS holders.

Unloading them is easy too - remove the dark slide, angle the holder so that the film is facing down at an angle, with felt light trap uppermost. Then give the holder a sharp rap, and the film sheath pops neatly out.

Loading them is really easy, and there is never any risk or problem with the film not being in the sheath correctly.

Back to ZorkiKat: you need the film sheaths, as DannL has in his first picture, which fit into the holders in place of the glass plates. They do come up for sale on ebay and other sources. Alternatively, you could make them yourself out of sheet metal.

The jam method is useful for LARGE films, but hardly necessary for 9x12cm and smaller.

Up to 18x24cm it's best to find some proper film adapter sheaths.

I'm in the market for some 9x12 film sheaths if anyone has some to sell. They need to fit the plate holders that came with a Voigtlander Bergheil.

The Kodak film holders are nice if they fit your camera. The film sheaths will fit any plate holder. I don't find them difficult to load (but I have one that's too narrow). The best type I have tried are the Orwo holders. They have cutouts to make the film rest direktly aginst the stoppers for the glass plates, so you'll get the register right. Other holders will give you a slightly longer lens-to-film distance than with glass plates. In most cases you'll stop down enough so it wo'nt matter much. But if you are shooting f:3,5 wide open, I don't know. It can be calculated, of course.....

With most sheaths, the offset is 0.3mm.

Some cameras even have a little lever which will move the lens back by 0.3mm after focussing, to compensate for that offset.

Or you could shim your GG back by 0.3mm - I haven't done this yet, since I still have some plates and film packs left.