Ahhh, the pleasures of working in a vacuum with nobody to answer questions...blindly barging ahead making assumptions based on near zero experience and half remembered bug splats of technical data on the cracked windshield of my memory. An arduous, tangential path to discovery. Then again, NO GUTS - NO GLORY!
So, anyways...I've recently experienced what I think is dichroic fog. After 20+ years of Tri-X & HC-110 complacency I've started using HP5+ in a glycin/metol developer of my own concoction.
The dichroic fog (?) entered the scene just as I started testing minus development using SLIMT, so I assumed it was the stronger SLIMT dilutions I was trying. That theory got shot out of the saddle yesterday when my normal negatives caught the ghastly yellowish brown fog.
I usually toss my TF-3 fixer after doing 40 negatives (it's supposed to be able to handle 20 8x10's per litre) but decided to try the "use your fix until it takes twice the time to clear" method. My new theory is that my fix was WAY over used. Make sense? (I mixed up a fresh batch of TF-3 last night and will fire off a negative today after work to be sure).
I took a couple negatives yesterday I wouldn't mind keeping. Hence the question - how do you clear dichroic fog? I found a site where Richard Knoppow states that adding 15 grams of Citric Acid to 1 litre of fresh ammonium thiosulfate fixer is will do the trick. What do you think? Any other suggestions? Am I now actually on the right path?
Murray
So, anyways...I've recently experienced what I think is dichroic fog. After 20+ years of Tri-X & HC-110 complacency I've started using HP5+ in a glycin/metol developer of my own concoction.
The dichroic fog (?) entered the scene just as I started testing minus development using SLIMT, so I assumed it was the stronger SLIMT dilutions I was trying. That theory got shot out of the saddle yesterday when my normal negatives caught the ghastly yellowish brown fog.
I usually toss my TF-3 fixer after doing 40 negatives (it's supposed to be able to handle 20 8x10's per litre) but decided to try the "use your fix until it takes twice the time to clear" method. My new theory is that my fix was WAY over used. Make sense? (I mixed up a fresh batch of TF-3 last night and will fire off a negative today after work to be sure).
I took a couple negatives yesterday I wouldn't mind keeping. Hence the question - how do you clear dichroic fog? I found a site where Richard Knoppow states that adding 15 grams of Citric Acid to 1 litre of fresh ammonium thiosulfate fixer is will do the trick. What do you think? Any other suggestions? Am I now actually on the right path?
Murray