kaiyen said:
Well, as Flotsam said, D76 is one awfully versatile developer. Some might argue that you can get all that you want from XTOL and more than with D76.
And I'd argue you can do anything you want/need to do with film with HC-110. In a hurry? Use Dilution B, at slightly elevated temperature, you can get development time down to three minutes with hard emulsion films like Tri-X. Want acutance? Dilute it -- Dilutions H or G are excellent for acutance, without much increase in grain. Need to reduce contrast without losing speed (usually a tough one)? Dilute and reduce agitation, then extend development; I give TMY nineteen minutes in Dilution G with agitation every 3rd minute to get normal contrast and full toe speed; if I need higher contrast (a "push") I can increase agitation to every minute and get the equivalent of N+1, while reducing agitation to every 5 minutes gives pretty close to N-1. Similar adjustments work with Tri-X and Fomapan 100, likely with any other film (even those not normally known to respond well to contrast controls).
Need to push A LOT? Develop in stock solution.
It's great for old film, too, because of the strong anti-fog agent in it.
And yes, it keeps very well -- I just finished off the last of a bottle of concentrate I opened in December of 2003; it was the same color, and worked just as well, when I slurped up the last of the syrup from the small bottle I'd decanted into as it was when I opened the pint. With minimum air in the bottles, it'll literally keep for years.
I do recommend stock solution for one application: when you need to make small quantities of high dilution, it can be very difficult to measure the syrup accurately enough, even with a syringe, for good consistency. In that case, the lower viscosity and larger volume of stock solution are a great help. I mix four ounces at a time, and use it when I need 2 ounces of Dilution G for a roll of microfilm from my Minolta 16...
