how difficult to retrieve film leader?

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jphendren

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I have a partially exposed roll of Velvia in my Nikon F5 and would like to move it to my new to me EOS-1V. I don't think that the F5 has the ability to leave the film leader out upon rewind.

I believe that I can then load the film into the 1V and just advance to the last frame at 1/8000 @ f/22 with the lens cap on in a dark area correct?

Jared
 

Anscojohn

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I have a partially exposed roll of Velvia in my Nikon F5 and would like to move it to my new to me EOS-1V. I don't think that the F5 has the ability to leave the film leader out upon rewind.

I believe that I can then load the film into the 1V and just advance to the last frame at 1/8000 @ f/22 with the lens cap on in a dark area correct?

Jared

*******
If you are lucky, born under the proper star, and they are all aligned properly, you can extract the leader just by using another roll of film leader. Or you can buy and extractor, or make one with celluloid and double sided tape. If you would like me to walk your through the wet film bit, email me at JayKHill@aol.com
And, yes, you can advance to the end of the roll as you decribed the technique.
 

Denis K

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With a film retriever it is simple to get the end out of the roll. I have, in the past, used a small section of 35mm film as a retrieval tool. To try this clip one of the sprocket holes and fold out the outside edge to where it forms a little "L". Then shove this into the spool and try to hook the film inside by a sprocket hole. Turn the center spool to catch the part you push into the spool. It works for me about 1 out of 300 times I try.

Denis K
 

pentaxuser

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Doesn't the F5 have the option of letting you rewind the film manually? If so then you feel the winder go slack as the film finally comes off the receiving spool. At that stage there is only the orginally exposed leader still exposed and you can safely open the back. If you can't rewind manually then I'd buy a film retriever. It's a worthwhile investment. My Pentax unfortunately does rewind the film back into the cassette so I have no choice but to use a retriever. Anyway I prefer to load onto a developing reel from the cassette without levering off the cassette's end and a film retriever is the only way to do this.

A film retriever is quite cheap and it should last half way to forever

pentaxuser
 

Denis K

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AgX, I like your link a lot. Maybe I learned the technique from someone common to that thread. At my age you can never remember where you learned some things.

The other day I had to find a way to pull the stub of a broken off key out of a lock. The stub end was only the front 1/3 of the key, and it was really stuck down into the bottom of the tumbler. I tried every tool I had and none of them came close to working. I tried the tape method and a bunch of others that failed as well. Finally, I was searching the web and someone recommended straightening out a fish hook and using that. I went to the store and got one with a barb just a bit wider than one of the groves in the key and BANG - it worked first time.

The last time I needed to extract the leader from a roll of film I thought about my fish hook experience and wished I had one, thinking that I could hook a sprocket hole in no time with the barb of the hook. Lately, I bought one of the commercial film extractors. It has has proven to be an excellent device, as once you have one on hand you never seem to have a need for it. Problem solved!

Denis K
 
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jphendren

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"Doesn't the F5 have the option of letting you rewind the film manually?"

Yes it does. I am heading down to my local camera shop to buy a circular polarizer, I will also check to see if they have a film leader retriever.

Jared
 

railwayman3

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Various makers (Ilford, Kaiser, etc.) make or used-to-make small film-retriever tools. Mine is an Ilford one which I picked up very cheaply on Ebay and it works just fine...seems a bit fiddly at first, but once you've recovered the first leader, you suddenly find the knack very easily. :smile:
 

nickandre

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I've managed to leave the leader out by opening the back of my N80 just in time to stop the rewind. You can watch the counter count down. If you can rewind manually just rewind till you feel the tension subside and stop. Cameras these days give you lots of room for error by having the leader 3 inches inside the cartridge for the #1 shot.
 

SMBooth

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I've managed to leave the leader out by opening the back of my N80 just in time to stop the rewind. You can watch the counter count down. If you can rewind manually just rewind till you feel the tension subside and stop. Cameras these days give you lots of room for error by having the leader 3 inches inside the cartridge for the #1 shot.

Nikon has outsmarted me with the N90x, if you open the back, or turn it off it still rewinds.....
 

DanielStone

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do you have a tape-label maker?

this peel-apart tape works well IMO. the lab techs at school do this same trick as well.

unpeel a bit (1" or so) and stick it in the canister, sticky side down(toward the spindle). then wind the film in the same direction, causing it to stick to the tape.

I've done this 'use the same roll in different cameras' many times before, such as testing out point and shoot cameras without shooting a whole roll, etc...

just put your lenscap on, and shoot until you've gone 2 or 3 frames past the last frame you were on in your F5. its worked for me every time.

re:spacing, I've found my friend's EOS-1N's and my F100 have almost identical spacing. think of neg pages, they need to be almost identical to fit properly, etc...


-Dan
 
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