HELP!.....split development with Glycerin, anybody done it?

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Jorge

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Ok, here is my problem. I have this negative that the foregorund prints great in a higher contrast and the sky in a lower contrast, so I am thinking of using the glycerin technique as described in the SUllivan/Weese book. But since this is a 12x20 and I have never done it before, I need some pointers.

Is there any risk of uneven development? how about one developer running into the different part? Should I start with the high contrast first, or the low contrast?

Ok, you pt/pd gurus, help me out here....:smile:
 

nze

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Hi Jorge

I often use glycerin development for my platinum print. In fact I use different product so to keep thing simple I prefer to use a new fresh developper for each print. When I do a series I sometimes use a bath developer for it . But it often happen that in one priting session I print different seies print and then I use glycerin development.

I've rarely done split development but it happen that on some image I get the same problem as you talk about or I want to mask a print and do it chimically by using different concentration of developer (1 glycerin-1 PO vs 3-1) or different developer (1Gl -1 Po vs 1Gl - 1 Citrate Pot.)

so let's answer your questions.
No you want get any uneven development , for this you need to well brush for the first 30 sec -1minute depending on the temp after you just need to brush every minutes. ( it also depend on the temp of the dev, hot quicker , colder slower)

Using to developper is a little harder but this depend on the image ,if there is a sky line , it will be easy. But if there are trees coming from the dark and going to the sky you should take care of the developper.
In this case I prefer to first apply a first layer of pure glycerin and then apply the developper glycerin mix.

If you work with the same dev. with different contrast thing will be easy. I start with the high contrast or low contrast developper depending how big they are , I always start with the bigger zone starting from the top o it and getting to the developer limit , then I use the other developer.

I don't do it often but I 've never get visible marks, just need to get al around your prints , 2 or more brushes (large and small), dilute developer in glycerin and pure glycerin.

I will try to rent a digital camera to show the way I work , sometime images explain more than words.
 
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Jorge

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Thanks Christian....I think I have the idea, did not think of using a mix of glycerin/developer. The photos would be nice...or how about an article...:smile:
 

nze

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Hi Jorge

I should do an article on it, in fact I was working on a book in french which contain all these but I don't have enough time to ended my test and my book, as all here I have to pay my bills and I truely prefer to spent my time out with my camera than in front of my computer screen. I still work on it a little but I delay the printing.

I start using different developer when I work with Satista+ . in fact instead of using silver nitrate . I develop part of the image with gold, platinum or palladium. I am still testing all these but I need a little more time to ended my test with other noble salt .

I remark that some noble salt don't work easily as main component or additive in a calssis Ferric develop by oxalate system. But it give better and interesting result with metalic developer like with Satista.

I will think of making an article in english that' s quicker to do than a book.
 
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Jorge

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Thanks, I think it would be appreciated.
 

Mateo

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Jorge,

How did the glycerin developement work out? I've got a bunch of Pt #3 that I don't use and finally found some glycerin that wasn't spiked with rose petals so I'm thinking of trying pure Pt.
 
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Jorge

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Mateo said:
Jorge,

How did the glycerin developement work out? I've got a bunch of Pt #3 that I don't use and finally found some glycerin that wasn't spiked with rose petals so I'm thinking of trying pure Pt.

It worked great, just make sure you dont have any dichromate in the developer, if you do it bleaches the print and leaves a mark. My first try I did it with my stock developer #1 and it has about .4 ml of pot dichromate/200 ml developer. It still bleached the print. Use fresh mixed devloper, mix it with the glycerine and go for it.
 
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