Hardener after Sepia Toning?

[pkerr]

This is the first time I've tried Sepia toning. I picked up the two packet Kodak kit and mixed it up late Saturday night but in the instructions it states that you need to put the print in a hardener at the end. I didn't have any such chemical and was just about to go out and buy some when I searched on the topic (kodak.com is not responding) and found that if the fixer used in the original process had a hardener then additional hardener was not necessary.

See http://www.photodo.com/art/Sepi15.shtml

I use Ilford Rapid fixer and it does not have a hardener.

I see a thread on APUG about re-fixing after toning.

So what's the real scoop?

Thanks in advance

 

[ann]

generally speaking toning works better if the original fixer DOESNOT have a hardener.
It has not been my experience with sepia or sepia types to use a hardener fixer after toning; however, i don't use kodak sepia toners.
There is a toning processes that does suggest post fixer with a hardener; Nelson's gold.

Some folks do use a hardener pre-toning when using Kodak Brown toner. I have not tested this method, but have done quite a bit of testing with KBT with prints that have been fixed with Ilford rapid fixer which does not have a hardener.

Kodak makes a liquid fixer that has a hardener then of course there is the version that has a separate container of hardener that is added .

I wouldn't worry .

 

[djkloss]

Sorry for the late inquest... I'm experimenting with the kodak sepia toner and found this link http://www.teachingphoto.com/downloads/Sepia.pdf that says fixing removes any "undeveloped" silver halides that were not "re-developed" in the toning bath. It's my understanding that using a hardening fixer is not a good thing for fiber prints. if this is the reason for fixing, then wouldn't a regular (Ilford Rapid) fixer work just as well? Or is there another alternative. I'm guessing this is used in partial toning? What about Sodium Sulfite?