Got the Phillips 11x14 Compact, many questions

[TN98]

I just got the R.H.Phillips 11x14 Compact series. The full bellow extension is 30.5 inches.

I'm looking for my first lens for all purpose. Any recommendation is appreciated. My narrow list are Nikon 450mm, G-Claron 355mm, RD Artar 19".

I just order the HP5+ film. I'll use the Pyrocat HD on tray for Platinum and Lodima or normal contact print on FB paper. What grade of Lodima should I test to get the density that work best with Pt/Pd? Starting time, dilution to try on tray.

 

[lns]

That's impressive.

Enjoy it.

-Laura

 

[chioque]

Ohhhh just beautiful..... At first reading the title I thought you bought a "compact" camera. LOL. Now, that's really a 'compact' 14x11.

 

[Pinholemaster]

Beautiful and so compact. Grin.

 

[Jeff Kubach]

That is an awesome camera!

Jeff

 

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Dick Phillips makes beautiful cameras. Congratulations on a great lightweight beauty. Any of the lenses you listed are great for this format. Depends on how much you want to spend. I just picked up a 19" Red Dot for $80.00 in a barrel. Seller didn't state that it was in an aluminum barrel or I would have paid more. I don't need shutters as I shoot slow film and have had great success with inexpensive process lenses and x-ray film.

 

[papagene]

Beautiful "Compact" camera!

 

[jp80874]

Great camera. Dick Phillips made the best and will still help you in retirement with repairs if needed. At 7x17 I only need a bit more coverage than your 11x14. My favorite and most used lenses are:

600mm Fuji C
450mm Nikkor M
12 inch (300mm) gold rim Dagor (lots of movement)
250mm Wide Field Ektar

My mentor with the 7x17 camera used a 305 G Claron, but I needed move movement. His best 7x17 friend used a 355mm G Claron for the movement, ignoring the size and weight. I could never find a 355mm G Claron and was very happy with the look of the Dagor. The 12” Dagor (300mm) has become my primary lens.

Enjoy your new camera.

John Powers

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Beautiful camera. Congratulations! Any of the three lenses you mention are good choices for the format. I have a Nikkor 450-M and a G-Claron 355. Both will cover with more than enough room to spare. Another option would be a Kodak Commercial Ektar 14". It is a bit faster, making for a brighter image on the ground glass for easier focusing. It also has beautiful transitions from in-focus to out-of-focus, and has very pleasing out-of-focus areas.

A negative which needs no contrast agent to print well in platinum usually prints well at a grade 0 on standard variable contrast or graded silver-gelatin paper. I don't know how this would translate to the contrast grades of Lodima (which I have never used), but I would be inclined to think that the Lodima grade 2 would be more comparable. If your goal is to save money by evaluating your prints on Lodima first, I don't know that it will save you any money over just printing in platinum to begin with.

 

[Scott Peters]

I would go with lodima 3 and some grade 2 for flexibility. For my look I prefer grade 3 more often, but mileage may vary. I would also try efke film as it is less expensive but still a very nice film to work with. The lodima is a joy to work with...enjoy your new ulf!

 

[John Jarosz]

The 420mm Apo Nikkor will also cover. It's usually cheaper as most people don't know it covers 8x20. It is possible to put it into an Ilex 5 shutter if you don't want to use your hat.

I use the 600 Apo Ronar. Very sharp high contrast lens. My 300mm lens is the 12" Metrogon. While it gives nice images, it's heavier than hell so I don't think you should go there. I had to structurally beef up my 2D conversion so it wouldn't dform under the weight.

It can be done, but HP5 can be difficult to get a high dynamic range with. FP4 is more receptive but it is slower.

Your camera looks great. Good luck with it.

John

 

[Michael Kadillak]

The 420mm Apo Nikkor will also cover. It's usually cheaper as most people don't know it covers 8x20. It is possible to put it into an Ilex 5 shutter if you don't want to use your hat.

I use the 600 Apo Ronar. Very sharp high contrast lens. My 300mm lens is the 12" Metrogon. While it gives nice images, it's heavier than hell so I don't think you should go there. I had to structurally beef up my 2D conversion so it wouldn't dform under the weight.

It can be done, but HP5 can be difficult to get a high dynamic range with. FP4 is more receptive but it is slower.

Your camera looks great. Good luck with it.

John

Ditto what John says about HP5. We are waiting for a special order of Efke 25 in 11x14. Slow film but it is a great emulsion.

Don't forget to consider a Packard shutter for some barrel lenses that you may come across. These shutters are being manufactured in California and they have a web site. I recently acquired a 610 f9 Nikkor in barrel and set up a Packard for it that works just great. Big lens but you have a big camera.

We hope to also do a Special Order for T Max 400 in 11x14 soon.

 

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I forgot to add that a 24" Red Dot is a great lens to have for this format. If you can find a 21 1/4" Ilex or Kodak anastigmat lens they will give you coverage galore and are nice and sharp and contrasty.

Michael, I can't wait for our order of Efke 25 to come in. I just wish I'd have ordered more!

 

[TN98]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

jp80874, Are there any differences between the gold rim and gold dot Dagor?

I'm looking forward to order the Efke 25 and TMY.

Is there any limitation to the lens choice (the bellow extension is 30.5 inch.)? I heard that you are looking for the 1:1 for the head and shoulder shot. So the G-Claron 355mm should fit it?

Red Dot Apochromat Artar (no brand indicate), Schneider 480mm f/11 APO-Artar, Goerz Red Dot Artar: Are they the same lens?

 

[Jim Fitzgerald]

The Artars I have are Goerz. I'm not sure how they stack up to the Schneider.

 

[jp80874]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

jp80874, Are there any differences between the gold rim and gold dot Dagor?

?

The stories printed here and on the LF Forum indicate that the gold rim was a marketing ploy used when they ran out of paint for the normal rim. Supposedly there is no difference between regular and gold rim.

I can not speak to the gold dot, but I am sure some one else will explain.

There are many Dagor variations. Stories again say to avoid the Berlin Dagors. Search here and LF forum for details.

John