Good developer for Adox MCC

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jglass

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Mike Johnston of Online Photographer says, regarding developers for new Adox MCC paper:

"I'd suggest staying away from Dektol (it has a tendency to go a little greenish with warm-tone papers) and finding a convenient warm-tone liquid developer."

Mike is a trustworthy source on these issues, having run Photo Techniques for years. Later in that post, a commenter suggested Freestyle's "Print WA" developer as a replacement of Neutol WA developer, which is what Mike had used prior to Neutol's demise.

My question is, what developer do you guys consider good with this sort of paper, both the predecessor Agfa and the Adox. I will be printing on it soon and did not realize I might need a new developer(Dektol is my standard).

Thanks.
 

mike c

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I have not used that paper yet but was going to get some and thinking of using Kodak Seletctol soft,has any one tryed this with Adox warm tone papers?
 
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jglass

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As a follow up, would the LPD or Neutol WA equivalent be dependable for good all-purpose developing of more neutral papers? I'd really like to stick with one developer. But do you guys use this stuff for warm tone and another for cooler tones?
 
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...Later in that post, a commenter suggested Freestyle's "Print WA" developer as a replacement of Neutol WA developer...
As the commenter who linked to Print WA, let me point out that it isn't a "replacement" for Neutol WA, which never really suffered a demise, it is Neutol WA. When Agfa sold off its photochemistry business, a company named A&O bought it. Since then, yet another purchaser has taken over. Print WA is still made in the same plant using the same equipment and formula as Agfa Neutol WA was. Unlike the paper, which Adox had to recreate pretty much from scratch after purchasing a small coating line from Agfa, relocating it and going through all the teething problems again.

As a follow up, would the LPD or Neutol WA equivalent be dependable for good all-purpose developing of more neutral papers? I'd really like to stick with one developer. But do you guys use this stuff for warm tone and another for cooler tones?
I've only very limited experience with LPD, but have settled on Neutol WA (Print WA) for all papers. It gives the slightest hint of warmth with many neutral chlorobromide papers (such as MCC or Ilford Galerie) and very neutral results with my stash of Canadian Azo. I found Ilford Warmtone developer provides noticably warmer results than Neutol WA with every paper I've compared them in.
 
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LPD is wonderful. It lasts a good long time too, great tray life. Replenished it's amazing and inexpensive.

Buy the powder, mix a gallon stock. Take 1/3 of the gallon stock and add water to make a full gallon of working solution.
Take the other 2/3 of the gallon stock and top it up with water to one gallon of replenisher.
Replenish 100ml per 30 8x10 prints (equivalent). When you pour back your developer into its storage jar, top up with replenisher to completely full as needed.

When you run out and mix a new gallon kit, to make the working solution, use the old working solution instead of water to add to the 1/3 gallon stock. This way it stays seasoned.

It's amazing developer with any paper, particularly since it's replenished and seasoned.
 
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jglass

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Okay, for me this is LPD vs. Neutol WA. Can anyone compare the two who has used both, preferrably with neutral tone papers.

For example, does Neutol/Print WA have this good tray life?

I know I'll have to try them myself but I want all the info I can get to start out.

Thanks. Very helpful so far.
 
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I know Neutol WA will last a good long printing session. But when you're done, you likely discard it. LPD I've had in a tray, covered, for three days before I poured it back into its container. Still good as new.

A good friend of mine wrote about replenished LPD:

"What’s The Big Deal ?
You will get the best economy this way. You will always have fresh developer.
The accumulated byproducts (which are good) remove the harsh edge from the developer and give you a nice mix of rich blacks, glowy highlights, and strong midtones."

Could you wish for more? Both Neutol WA and LPD will give great results. For me it's easier to print using LPD; I feel I have to work my paper harder with Neutol. That may not be true for everybody, as we all desire different qualities from our prints. I think the most important thing is to be consistent.
 
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...For example, does Neutol/Print WA have this good tray life?...
The most I've tried is to leave it in a tray overnight after a roughly 8-hour session, then print some more the next day. No discernable difference in results.

I mix 1:7 from concentrate. The partially full bottle of concentrate also lasts a long time. When I've used some of it (up to 1/3), the bottle can be squeezed enough to get all air out before capping. Even when it's less than 2/3 full, left for an extended period (say up to 1 year) and darkens visibly, results stay the same. I've not kept it for more than 1 year with air in the bottle. Probably best to support the manufacturer by purchasing at least one bottle each year anyway. :smile:
 

clayne

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I tend to use Dektol as it just goes into Selenium at the end of the process anyways - removing the green cast.
 

AlanC

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If you are selenium toning, the colour you get may vary with the developer used. It does with Ilford warmtone paper. Neutol WA + selenium = purple tones. Ilford warmtone developer + selenium = warmer reddish tones.

Alan Clark
 

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I loved ansco 130 on the old stuff, can't wait to try the new paper. 130 goes great with just about every paper.
 
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this paper + ansco 130 = WOW!

This is my new go-to combo after searching for so long since the "forte incident." I also love how this paper allows you to tone very with a very subtle touch. I'm in love... just don't tell my girlfriend or my bike or my verito or my chamonix or my...
 

Loren Sattler

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I have printed both the old and new Agfa with Dektol and have not noticed any color issues. I like the stuff and feel the new looks like the old.
 

erikg

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Now I have to get some of the new stuff! Is freestyle the only place to get it? Any source on the east coast?
 

stradibarrius

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LPD is wonderful. It lasts a good long time too, great tray life. Replenished it's amazing and inexpensive.

Buy the powder, mix a gallon stock. Take 1/3 of the gallon stock and add water to make a full gallon of working solution.
Take the other 2/3 of the gallon stock and top it up with water to one gallon of replenisher.
Replenish 100ml per 30 8x10 prints (equivalent). When you pour back your developer into its storage jar, top up with replenisher to completely full as needed.

When you run out and mix a new gallon kit, to make the working solution, use the old working solution instead of water to add to the 1/3 gallon stock. This way it stays seasoned.

It's amazing developer with any paper, particularly since it's replenished and seasoned.

Thomas can you explain the replenish procedure?
 
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