Getting grips with Pentax Digital Spotmeter (Zone VI modified) (for transparancies)

[Alexz]

Being lucky to figure and purchase recently Zone VI modified Pentax Digital Spotmeter I'm learning its utilization for Zone-based metering for slides shooting (no B&W is expected).
Seems to be pretty much intuitive, however would like to ensure I'm getting it right prior to applying it in the field.
Few examples will clarify whether I do it right or not:
1. I measure several spots within the composition including the highlights and deepest shadows I'm willing to be preserved in the final exposure. Bearing in mind slide dynamic range of 4-5 stops, if the highlights/shadows gap doesn't exceed this range, I can just calculate the middle EV setting (between those I got for highlights and shadows) and place it against Zone V. By this approach both measured highlights and shadows shall be exposed properly, right ?
2. After measuring highlights and shadows, I figure that the span doesn't fit into slide dynamic range (I obtain wider gap then 4-5 stops), I I have to make my choice of range shift. If I decide I'll be willing to preserve more highlights and accepting deepest shadows will be sacirificed, I'll put the EV measured off these highlights against Zone VII (then the deepest shadows will be placed farer away from Zone VII then by 4-5 stops).
Alternatively, if for any reason I'm willing to preserve deepest shadow details being ready to sacirifice brightest highlights, I'll place shadow's EV against Zone III (so that brightest highlights fall higher then 5 stops gap from Zone III)

Do I get it right ?

Thanks, Alex

 

[Danpv]

I got into LF a year ago, shoot only chromes and use the same meter. When metering for transparencies, I prefer to avoid overblown highlights, so I place the brightest metered spot reading in Zone VII and let the rest of scene/subject fall where it may. I have never metered for shadows.

You are correct that transparency film can generally handle only a 5-stop range. Using Polaroid film to proof your shots prior to exposing chromes is a good way to check your composition and exposure (Google this site and photo.net and lfphoto.info for more information if you are unfamiliar).

Using graduated neutral density filters allows you to salvage scenes whose light exceeds a 5-stop range.

 

[Alexz]

Thanks, sounds pretty much reassuring for the approach I mentioned.
Yes, I use GNDs and certainly this is taken into account if used, what I was after is just a confirming the approach, according to your experience it should be right. BTW, proceeding this way (Zone system by the meter) seems to simplify entire metering issue by a great deal whihc is exciting.
(In 35mm, once encountered difficult metering situation requiring spot metering and evaluation, I used to meter and often (when no close to 18% grey is available) translate the exp. reading in my mind into proper exposure compensating the difference between the actual metered brightness and 18%. Sometimes it wasn't very easy (one being tired) just to re-calculate the stops)
Perhaps the second case (metering for shadows) is more applicable for negatives, but I meant a generalization.