Fuji CDU Type II dupe film, speed?

[timeUnit]

Hi!

I found a Fuji sheet film I've never seen before, and can't find any good info on. It's called CDU Type II and is a tungsten balanced duplicating reversal (slide) film.

I'm looking for cheap 4x5 films to do cross processing on, and this one was exeptionally cheap. It would be nice if anyone knew its speed?

Thanks!!
Henning

 

[Mick Fagan]

Henning, as long as you understand that this is a duplicating film and will have really low contrast.

It is designed for exposure under tungsten light and would have an ISO somewhere between 3 to about 12. Some fiddling I did for an American tourist last year who had a couple of packets of this film suggests something like that.

Not too sure if you cross process it in C41 you will get the wacky colours normal E6 cross processed film normally gives you.

However if it's really cheap and you wish to experiment, go for it!

Mick.

 

[timeUnit]

I understand it's low contrast. But still, it's slide film, so it should be reasonably high contrast anyway, right?

Anyway, as I'm going to cross these, and probably do it myself, I should be able to up the contrast by overdeveloping? That will probably make the colors more whacky, too, right?

*h

 

[Konical]

Good Morning, Henning,

You're probably right about the increase in contrast if you process it in C-41. Its also worth trying a few sheets of it with normal E-6 processing for some night photography. Exposures should be in the 1 1/2 to 3 minute range at f16, depending on the scene. The very low contrast is extremely helpful in such situations.

Konical

 

[timeUnit]

I am thrilled to write that I did my first 2 sheets of CDU in C41 yesterday. They're hanging to dry as I write (from work...).

The negs look really cool. They are all magenta/red with a bit of blue and yellow here and there. I guess they'll end up very blue/green when I invert them.

I metered at ISO 12 and got 4 minutes at f/8. I shot one at 5 minutes and one at 6 (some movements to compensate for). The negs are dense, but do not look overexposed. I have nice shadow detail. I think the exposure is good.

Developing in a Combi-Plan tank was sort of a PITA, though. First time with it, and first time with C41. Man, it takes ages to fill and drain! It leaks too! Cost me around 100 USD, and it leaks... Sheesh...

Total development 4.30 (I was aiming for 4 minutes, as my developer is a bit more diluted than standard, to cover the 4x5 sheets, but underestimated the drain time) at 39°C. Blix, around 6.30.

I had some issues with water spots when the sheets had dried. I think this was due to not using any wetting agent (not mentioned in C41 instructions) and drying in my kitchen -- it's a quite hot and dry. I usually dry in the bathroom, as it's quite humid and a little cool. I rewashed the sheets this morning with some water and Ilfotol. Hung to dry in the bathroom. Ilfotol could not have any negative impact on the sheets, right?

I'll definetely post scans later. Man I'm all jittery! So cool!

 

[poutnik]

timeUnit, by a chance, did you manage to scan some images? I also have a chance to come across some of this film and am interested in your results. Did you also try some normal E-6 processing?

Thanks

Jiri

 

[JosBurke]

I'm glad this info is posted--I have about 6 boxes of the CDU Dupe in 8x10 (50 sheets per).
Thanks
J Burke

 

[epatsellis]

I'd be interested in a few scans too, as I have about 10or 12 boxes of 4x5 (50 sheet boxes) that I fell into too cheap not to try. (not to mention outdated Velvia 50 and E100s too)

erie

 

[PHOTOTONE]

If you process film in C-41 chemistry without using the C-41 "final rinse" then the dyes are not stabilized and can be subject to rather rapid fading. The final rinse has dye stabilizer and a wetting agent to minimize spotting.
The "final rinse" is available as a separate chemical from Kodak. You don't have to buy a kit, or use Kodak C-41 developer, etc.

 

[timeUnit]

Here are some scans. Please be adviced, they can no longer be called analog, as there is quite heavy editing involved in getting this look. I think I could produce similar results in a darkroom, given time and practice. Right now that's not an option.

http://timeunit.se/article/282/TheMeeting
http://timeunit.se/article/280/Sannaskolan
http://timeunit.se/article/278/Web

 

[timeUnit]

Phototone:
I have understood not to wash the negs again after stabilizer...

 

[PHOTOTONE]

Phototone:
I have understood not to wash the negs again after stabilizer...

Oh sorry. I wasn't sure, from the way you described your processing, whether you used a "final rinse" or "stabilizer". They both mean the same thing when referring to C-41 process, and the stabilizer contains a wetting agent to prevent water spots.

 

[timeUnit]

Nothing to be sorry about! I did wash the negs AFTER stab before, but people here on APUG have been kind enough to tell me that's not so good. Now I try to avoid it.

Thanks for the heads up!