FPP "Plastic Filmtastic" -- the Debonair

[Donald Qualls]

I just got my Debonair camera from Film Photography Project. For $20 plus tax & shipping, how bad can it be, right?

Well, 60mm fixed f/8 aperture, three-zone markings on a continuous focus (and a warning in the instructions never to shoot within five feet), and two shutter speeds (seemingly 1/25 and 1/100, give or take a little, to work well with ISO 100 film -- a nice trick for a simple almost-rotary shutter) but no B (nor tripod or cable release sockets). The camera design is apparently old enough that both box and instructions show the original Debonair Flash unit using AG-1(B) flashbulbs, which haven't been manufactured in more than thirty years. The shutter appears to have X sync, however, via the standard hot shoe, as FPP used electronic flash one some of their demo shots. I foresee some issues with simpler flash units, however -- the fixed aperture (f/8) means you'll need to have the right film speed loaded for the flash you have and the distance you want to shoot, unless your flash can accommodate the fixed aperture and varying film speeds.

The sheet enclosed from FPP talks about light leaks, dreamy soft focus, and easy double exposures. Double exposures, no question -- push the button, it exposes, completely independent of film advance. Just like most of the cameras I own (though there's no separate step to cock the self-cocking shutter). The example photos on the FPP website seem to give the lie to the dreamy soft focus -- at least in the center of the frame, theirs seems to be reasonably sharp (I'll know about mine in a while; it'll be at least another week before I can develop any film from it, even if i shot a whole roll today).

Looks like easy loading (like most plastic 120 cameras), and it comes with a wrist strap to cut down on dropping and breaking. I noticed the viewfinder shows a square frame, despite the permanent 6x4.5 frame mask in the film gate and 16 frame track position for the ruby window.

I don't see anything here that looks discouraging; in fact, this looks upmarket compared to the Anny 44 I have in a box around here somewhere (that's pretty bad even for a Diana clone and it uses 127 -- cut and roll your own, or $10+ a roll). I plan to load it as soon as I can find a roll of .EDU Ultra 100 (my stuff is somewhat disarrayed at present) and bang away over the coming week, hopefully I'll be in a position to develop the film by next weekend.

 

[Dali]

Please keep us posted! I am interested to read you comments on real experience and of course to see the pictures!

For flash photography, I suspect that an old unit shall be OK as long as you can set the ISO and the F/8 aperture. I know that most units have different aperture setting depending on the ISO setting but if you plan to use this camera with 1 film type only, it should be easy to find the adequate flash.

 

[Donald Qualls]

"Old unit" -- when I got my first (and my fourth or fifth) electronic flash unit, it was "here's the guide number for film speed X, set your aperture for the distance." Now, admittedly, f/8 was almost always in a reasonable range of distances for what was then ASA 100 film -- but it was just a case of Nike zoom to ensure correct exposure with a fixed aperture. Just like the old Instamatics used to say "Flash distance, 4-10 feet" in cameras designed for ASA 100 film and an AG-1 or flashcube.

 

[Dali]

The flash sensor should be able to adjust the light to the scene within reasonable limits as long as ISO and aperture settings match with the camera.

 

[Donald Qualls]

What I'm saying @Dali , is that a flash I'd consider an "old unit" won't have a sensor, it'll be fixed power, like a bulb flash without the throw-away bulbs.

 

[ic-racer]

Interested in seeing the images it produces. I'm not sure what you are looking for in that but I find stuff like this exciting (I believe this is Rexroth with a Diana):

 

[Donald Qualls]

We'll find out together. I already know I forgot to focus one shot and forgot to change shutter speed on another, just in the first half of the roll (different interface than the Kiev 4M I've been using for weeks -- and no RF patch, so easy to forget it has a focusing lens).

 

[Jeremy Mudd]

We'll find out together. I already know I forgot to focus one shot and forgot to change shutter speed on another, just in the first half of the roll (different interface than the Kiev 4M I've been using for weeks -- and no RF patch, so easy to forget it has a focusing lens).

Been there, done that!

Can't wait to see what shots you create with it.

I may have mentioned this before, and you probably already know this - if you wear glasses or sunglasses, take them off while composing thru the viewfinder. Otherwise you don't see the entire field of view and you'll get images that look "farther away" than what you thought you were taking.

Jeremy

 

[Donald Qualls]

Don't think it would help me to take my glasses off -- without them, I can't see well enough to frame the shot. I can see the frame, though, with a little wiggle, same as I have to do with a number of other cameras that have much smaller viewfinders than the Debonair.

 

[TomNY]

Here's I shot using Ektar

 

[Donald Qualls]

I occurred to me the other day, the combination of 16 shots and a square viewfinder suggests the Debonair may have been modified from a Diana-like design. The original Diana was 4x4 on 120, ostensibly to allow shooting slides to fit 2x2 mounts (and it vignettes because the 6x4.5 or 6x6 frame is well outside the original lens image circle).

The current Debonair frame mask is installed with four small screws -- I'd bet there was a 4x4 mask in there originally. That would fit better with the viewfinder shape, angle of view, and lens focal length.

 

[ciniframe]

With the price of 120 going up, ‘cheap’ now being $5 a roll, me thinks 16 shots on a roll ain’t a bad idea.

 

[Donald Qualls]

With the price of 120 going up, ‘cheap’ now being $5 a roll, me thinks 16 shots on a roll ain’t a bad idea.

Yep. And a new camera for the price of three new rolls of film isn't bad. Got my darkroom into a usable state, finally, so I should be able to get some film processed this afternoon. I'll attempt to include the first roll from the Debonair. Meanwhile, I'm thinking about how to make a 4x4 mask to restore the (presumed) original format...

 

[ciniframe]

You say the film mask is attached with screws? So maybe remove it and mask it from the inside with black construction paper on the top and bottom, held on with a bit of black masking tape.

 

[Donald Qualls]

You say the film mask is attached with screws? So maybe remove it and mask it from the inside with black construction paper on the top and bottom, held on with a bit of black masking tape.

That's very much the way my thinking was running. Then again, I'll look at the negatives from the first couple rolls before I make a decision on that. I may like them with more of the "Holga space" visible...

 

[Donald Qualls]

An update -- no, haven't got any film processed yet from my Debonair, but I've verified an accessory that fits.

The Holga SL-1 "Self Portrait Lens" for Holga 120 and 35mm cameras seemed likely to be adaptable to fit the Debonair, so when i saw them on clearance at Freestyle (for $4!), I added one onto an order with some film (XP2 Super in 35 mm and 120), chemistry (Legacy Pro paper developer, which I expected to be a Dektol imitator, but instead is a Dimezone/Hydroquinone/carbonate formula), and enlarging paper (Arista VC RC Pearl finish).

Turns out there's no adaptation needed, which strongly implies that any other slip-on lens accessories (like filters) that fits a Holga will also fit the Debonair.

For those unfamiliar, this is a diopter (brings focus with lens set to Mountains into the 400-600 mm range, just right for arm's length) along with a convex composing mirror (similar to, though much larger than the ones on the first generation of phones with cameras). I expect to also use it as a conventional close-up lens; it should significantly expand the range of images I can make with this camera. With the lens set to "one person" actual focus with the diopter in place ought to be about 37-38 cm, or about 15 inches, with a DOF of a couple inches.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Okay. It's a Holga on a diet -- just a little thinner.

It's sharp enough in the center, but gets less so out toward the corners of the frame (as I mentioned earlier, I think this was originally a 4x4 on 120 camera like the original Diana). The lens (or maybe the inside of the film chamber) flares a bit if you shoot against the light, and there's some light drop off toward the corners as well. Focus seems reasonably accurate (for having only three markings).

Chromatic aberration is obvious if you look for it, and the lens is pretty slow (f/11 or so, as far as I can tell).

Shutter is pretty slow if you're set on "cloudy/flash" -- claim is 1/200 on "sunny", which would fit for ISO 100 and f/11, but "cloudy/flash" appears to be 1/25 (yes, three stops, just about right for "overcast" conditions). The Holga SL-1 selfie lens fits perfectly and works as expected, but if the camera's focus is set to "mountains" the focal distance is too long for my arms. You can gain another couple inches by focusing to "one person" with the selfie lens mounted. I know this, however by missing focus on both of my self portrait attempts. Tippy the porch cat didn't want to sit still, but she was at the right distance.

Debonair "Plastic Filmtastic", 60mm plastic lens (with Holga SL-1 close-up lens on 3rd image), Fuji Superia 100 (probably 10 years or more expired), Cinestill Cs41 chemistry.

I like it. I guess I'll keep it, and keep shooting it.

 

[Dali]

Donald, thanks for bringing to my attention the FPP Debonair. I bought one last week ($20 + shipping), shot my first roll film (Arista EDU 100) with it last weekend, developed the film yesterday (ID-11 ) and just finished some prints. Clearly, it is not an Hassy or even a Lubitel but within its limitations, it is not that bad at all.

I was concerned by the overall quality. In 30 minutes, I coated the inside with matte black paint (no more shiny plastic) and put some foam band to avoid any light leak. Believe me or not, no light leak AT ALL! NONE! Clearly, the sharp zone in the image is pretty small (not to mention the corners...), vignetting is obvious but the contrast is pretty good. I slightly over-developed my film to compensate but I am surprised by the result. I was expecting much worse!

For those who have doubts, yes, the shutter has 2 speeds. I assume that the fastest is 1/100. Then, the slowest should be around 1/40 (took the same scene with both shutter settings. The negatives density is clearly different).

Next task is to find a way to put filters / lens hood on it.

Thanks again!

 

[Donald Qualls]

It has the same lens O.D. as a Holga 120S or 120N (etc.), so any lens accessory that fits a Holga should work with it. I've used the SL-1 (Selfie Lens, aka close-up diopter).

That said, as I noted, it's basically a Holga with no option for 6x6, and shutter speed control instead of (non-functional?) aperture control. And the shutter is a type that isn't amenable to an easy retrofit to add B like the one in a 120S (120N already has B, as well as a tripod socket).

 

[Huss]

Interested in seeing the images it produces. I'm not sure what you are looking for in that but I find stuff like this exciting (I believe this is Rexroth with a Diana):

love this pic!

 

[Dali]

Some comments regarding the FPP Debonair after 3 months of use:

_ After adding seal the camera back, I have no light leaks.
_ No unwanted reflection as I covered the inside with matt black paint.
_ In order to use filters or a lens hood, I glued a 46 - 49mm adapter ring.
_ The viewfinder is very imprecise. Generally, there is more to the negative than shown through the viewfinder.
_ The strap supplied with the camera to be forgotten. Its attachment ring is not firm and it is easily detached from the camera (I lost the strap....) Replace it with something serious.
_ Out of the box, the camera scratched the film. After filing the film path, the problem seems to be gone.
_ Loading the camera is a pain. I suggest you try several times and find the right method for you before going on the field.
_ Beware of "fat rolls". To avoid any leakage of light, I unload the camera in the dark.
_ The vignetting is variable from one image to the next. As a rule, it increases as the focus gets closer.
_ Because of the vignetting, think about centering the subject more than usual.
_ By measuring the optical distance, I estimated the focusing distances according to the icons: 2 meters, 4 meters and infinity.
_ Beware of the shutter release at slow speed. It is quite hard to operate with a rather long stroke and the lightness of the camera favor motion blur.
_ I only use Fomapan 100 and the view numbers are very visible through the red window.
_ Mask the red window with black adhesive when not in use. I secure in the same way the lock of the back which is under the camera.

In short, it's a camera the user should improve to get the most out of it. Even then, it is far from being perfect but it is not what we are asking for, isn't it?

 

[AgX]

Beware of "fat rolls". To avoid any leakage of light, I unload the camera in the dark.

What is a fat roll?

 

[Dali]

It is when the film winds loose around the spool, leaving space for light to reach it. It happens because there is not enough tension when winding. It is not systematic with the Debonair (there are some metal flat springs inside the camera to add tension) but it happened to me twice, so beware!

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've only shot 3-4 rolls through mine, but haven't seen a single instance of light leaks or print-through of the framing numbers (check which frame has what number; that's more likely to be wrapper offset and the camera is innocent in that case). I don't find it any more difficult to load than other compact 120 cameras. I've had no fat rolls nor film scratches (what looks like a scratch in one of my posts above is a scratch on the scanner glass). Flocking the interior isn't a bad idea, however.

Any push-on accessory that fits a Holga will work with the FPP Debonair -- it has the same size lens surround (possibly the same lens as well). That ought to include close-up lenses and tele- or wide-angle add-ons (if such exist). The viewfinder may have originated on a version intended to shoot 4x4 slides (like the original Diana), and the 6x4.5 mask that's in the camera as sold now may thus run well outside the viewfinder coverage.