for 12x20 shoot vertical ..Lotus VMD? Ries A250-2? (but Ries head can not pan)...
Jeff,
I'll bring us back on track (robert). I have been shooting vertical 12x20 images in the field with a Wisner Technical Field camera for 4 years on an A100/A250 platform. Virtually all of the 12x20 vertical images on my web site -
www.bobherbst.com - were shot with this configuration. I tilt the camera to the left so I set the tripod up with one leg pointing directly out to the right side parallel to the film plane. Mount the camera on the head in the horizontal position. I use a very thin piece of packing foam on the top of my tripod to reduce slippage. It is free, "stickier" than cork and easily replaced when it gets frayed. A second mount hole is a better solution, but not an easy matter in my configuration.
At this point I want to suggest a piece of insurance. I carry a 5 lb. sand bag in the vehicle to use as a counter weight. I hang it from the spike in the right side tripod leg (Assumes you are using the rubber feet end on the ground). The tripod and head are capable of supporting the camera without the counter-weight. It just makes the whole set up a lot more stable. In the early days, I just carried a cloth bag which I would fill with rocks from where ever I was shooting. But rocks aren't available everywhere so I now carry a sand bag.
Using the scissors hinge of the head, turn the entire camera 90 degrees on its side to the left straddling the two legs on that side. You will have to get the feel for the spread of the legs to accommodate the camera. I try to set it all up such that the camera back is just resting on one of the legs to add rigidity. (Yes, I have dings in my camera and tripod. They are just tools.) Level everything using head adjustments, moving tripod legs, etc. and compose.
A second piece of insurance is a second smaller tripod to place under the outer edge of the camera back to stop slippage, reduce vibration, and increase overall rigidity. I use a standard Tiltall tripod with an integrated head for the secondary support. It is light weight and simple to use.
All of this equipment including the camera four film holders, a bag of lenses fits easily on a fold-up photo cart for transport. I've pulled it behind me for a couple miles on a graded gravel path with little exertion.
As for limited movements, that depends on your camera. On the Wisner TF, you are not limited to the amount of shift for rise/fall in the vertical orientation. Point the camera up from horizontal and use swing on the back and lens standard to bring them back to vertical providing more rise. I have had my camera in extreme configurations in a vertical orientation to get 4-5" inches of rise with a 30" lens. It is possible. I have done it. But be very aware of bellows sag in such situations. Keep a roll of gaffers tape with you to tape the bellows tight to avoid sag intruding into the image area.
I looked at the VMD. It looked more stable on the tripod once mounted, but hoisting a 28.5 lb camera plus the weight of the VMD up onto the tripod when the camera handle is now on the side didn't sound like fun.
I liked the vertical format so much that I had Ron Wisner make a vertical rear standard made for my 12x20. It's probably the only one Wisner ever made and I wish I could get commission from him on Robert's. But I really only use it in the studio or if I am going to specifically shoot a vertical image in the field. Changing the camera configuration in the field is not really practical. So I pack a second tripod and a sand bag and I'm ready for both in the field.
Hope this helps. I encourage you to give it a try. A vertical shot will take much longer to set up and compose the image but it is worth it. Your knees will probably be weak the first time but it will work. Try not to do your first one with the backs of your legs pressed against a guardrail along the edge of the road with a drop-off 4 feet in front of you. That was my first one - maybe why my knees were a little weak. Good luck.
Bob Herbst
