Finally got around to doing some experiments with this paper and process and I know a few of you were interested in the results, so here goes. Used Foma 12 x 16 MG Classic Glossy. 131 warmtone paper - made a master print with normal exposures - this is a very slow paper by the way, ended up with 60 secs at Gr.2.5 at F5.6. Made 4 prints @ 1/2 stop overexposed - 3 prints in Ilfd. warmtone dev. and 1 print in Ilfd. Multigrade dev. Made 4 prints @ 3/4 stop overexposed - 2 prints in Ilfd warmtone dev. and 2 prints in Ilfd Mulitgrade Dev. <Made 4 prints @ 1 stop overexposed - 2 prints in Ild warmtone Dev. and 2 prints in Ilfd. Multigrade dev. Used Maco Lith - 100ml of A, 100ml of B, 250 ml Old Brown and 2.5 litres water @ 25 deg. (Tim Rudman's receipe) It was quite easy to identify which prints had been developed in warm or neutral/cold developer but at the end of the bleach/lith session when the prints were dried there was no greater warmth in the warmtone developed prints than the others in the colder tone developer. The first 5 to 6 prints were horrible, very mottled and streaky but the final 6 were terriffic- just the look I was after, the mid tones were very graphic, th4e blacks really solid, while the lighter to highlight areas were a light creamy/peach colour. So at the end of the session I had 5 prints that are sellable, not bad odds for a lith session! I'm sorry that I can't show these prints to you but I only ever use 12 x 16 paper and its too big to fit my scanner, plus I haven't a clue how to do it anyway. Actually I much prefer the look of these prints than the ones I used with Forte warmtone paper so its a win-win for me - unless of course the Foma is taken off the market - then its back to the drawing board I guess. Hope this info helps anyone else who enjoys creating Lith prints this way. Patricia.