Focusing screen for Rolleiflex 2.8E (v1) - Maxwell, Beattie, Oleson, or .. ?

[Matus Kalisky]

I should soon have (if everything goes right) a vert nice, freshly serviced Rolleiflex 2.8E version 1. I am trying to think in advance and I guess once the camera is there I will get a new focusing screen for it.

The questions I would like to ask are:

1) Will I be able to change it myself? This Rollei has the focusing hood screwed on.

2) Which screen to get? The one from Rick Oleson is much cheaper than the one from Maxwell or Beattie. How do they compare? Or should I consider (not sure it is possible) getting a new one from DHW? I have read mostly positive comments on all of them (OK, one negative comment about screen from Rick - it was about focusing precision, but there was no follow-up).

3) I am not sure yet whether I want a focusing spot in the centre or not . I may prefer not to if the focusing would be precise enough without.

thank you

 

[illumiquest]

You can swap your own, I cut down a RZ67 screen with split rangefinder and it works great. Just score and break the plastic. I did have to adjust focus on the stop lens a bit. Easy, you can get the screens for cheap and diy.

 

[jeffbennett]

I have had three Rolleiflexes fitted with Maxwell screens, including my current 3.5E2. I had all of those replacements done by a tech to make sure the focus was set properly, even though all of those cameras had the removable hoods. The Maxwell screens are excellent in my experience, and my preference is for the plain matte screen with no center spot.

I have also had one Oleson screen that I put in a Rollei MX-EVS, which has the hood attached with screws. Rick sends a great set of instructions on doing the installation yourself, and it was not difficult. In my case, the focus did not change from what it was with the original screen. Since the original screen had been dialed in by a tech and verified with film results, I knew I should be OK without making any further adjustments. My impression is that this somewhat luck of the draw, and sometimes an adjustment of the focusing is necessary.

I found the Oleson screen a great improvement in brightness, though it was actually a bit more difficult to focus than the original ground glass. But it was quite workable if you use the magnifier and look closely at both the rangefinder spot and the ring around the rangefinder. And the brightness was great for composition.

I probably would have eventually had a Maxwell screen put in the MX-EVS if I had kept the camera. But the Oleson screen at $35 US is worth a try if you want to save some money. My last Maxwell was $220 installed, as I recall.

Jeff

 

[Oren Grad]

Heh, I was just posting to a similar thread over at RFF. The basic problem is that different people respond differently to various aftermarket screens, so there's no way to know for sure what will work best for you without trying it yourself. But that can be expensive and time-consuming, as the aftermarket screens ideally need a qualified technician to install them and, if necessary, (re)calibrate focus.

FWIW, I had Harry Fleenor install a Maxwell screen without focus aid in a 3.5E he was overhauling for me. Unfortunately, I did not like it at all. It was certainly brighter, but I found that I had a harder time determining the point of best focus.

 

[Matus Kalisky]

Thank you for your replies. I will definitely wait and see how the original screen will be and then decide - though I would probably start with a cheaper option. I am located in Germany so getting a screen from Maxwell and having it installed by a shop would end up at around 300€ or more.

It also seems that getting a screen with a focusing point may be a good idea. Frankly - of I were ordering one from Rick I would probably get two - one with and one without.

 

[aoresteen]

My Rolleiflex 2.8C has a Maxwell screen installed by Henry. As does my Rolllieflex 4x4. And my Rolleiflex 3.5 (since sold). And my Hasselblad 500C. Need I say more?

 

[jochen]

Hello Matus,
I think if the hood of the 2,8 E is screwed on, the camera has a grounded mineral glas screen. Every modern screen will be a great improvement, especially the brightness in the corners is much higher. It is very difficult to focus with the ground glas screen in dim light or in normal bright home rooms. The so called Helleinstellscheibe made from plastic came with the exchangable hood.
I exchanged the glass screen of a Rolleicord Va against the lower part of a RB 67 screen (I paid 10 € on a "Fotobörse" for it) which had to be cut to the correct size. In my case no adjustage of the focus was necessary but in other cases it may be necessary to let adjust the viewing lens. In my 2,8 F there was a Beattie Intenscreen in it and this screen is really excellent! But it is very very expensive, the RB 67 screen is nearly as good, I would not invest so much money in a screen.

 

[Matus Kalisky]

I am starting to take the advice about Mamiya RB screens seriously. Are all Mamiya RB screens suitable (not only if the fit, but also brightness, etc)?

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Unless it's a 2.8E2 you should not change the screen yourself. Nothing worse than a camera of this potential that cannot focus correctly. Even with what you've got as-is a good CLA is a good idea.

I have about 7-8 Rolleiflexes collected through the years. I've had Maxwell screens installed by Harry in two of them: a 2.8E and 3.5E both Planars. Yes both brighter than original screens which helps under darker handheld conditions but my others with the original screens do quite well under normal circumstances.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Matus Kalisky]

Yeah, with 'v1' I meant 'E1'. I would indeed think twice before I would install the screen myself. But since the camera comes with fresh CLA (I am buying from servicing company - they gave me the details on the CLA already) it really should not need one. But that does not prohibit me from sending the camera in and having the screen installed by a skilled technician of course.

If everything goes right I should have the camera in about a week - I am really looking forward to it. I am missing my Rolleiflex T dearly.

 

[pgomena]

My Rollei 2.8C is pretty bright with the original focusing screen AND the original Rollei fresnel screen. I see no reason to replace the original, and my eyes aren't getting any better with age. Not sure how common the fresnel screens are or were.

 

[aoresteen]

My Rollei 2.8C is pretty bright with the original focusing screen AND the original Rollei fresnel screen. I see no reason to replace the original, and my eyes aren't getting any better with age. Not sure how common the fresnel screens are or were.

Humm. My 2.8C was noticeably dimmer than my 500C with the original Hasselblad screen which was brighter than the Rollei 2.8C. The Maxwell screen made a huge difference. And when I changed the Rollei 4x4 screen it was like a different camera.

 

[pgomena]

I'm sure a Maxwell screen is brighter than my 2.8C+fresnel. I just don't find it to be a problem that needs fixing in my case. My Hasselblad with the Acute Matte screen is very bright, much brighter than the Rollei. I'll have to compare the Rollei with the original Hasselblad screen just for sake of comparison. The fresnel makes a considerable difference on the original Rollei screen.

 

[jochen]

Hello,
many years ago, in Braunschweig the company "Foto- und Filmgeräteservice" made service and repair of Rollei equipment. I spoke with them whether they had a "Helleinstellscheibe" for my 3,5 A. A very polite lady told me that they had none and they sometimes used RB 67 screens cut to size. The RB and RZ screens consist of two parts, a lower which is the matte screen with the fresnel lens and in some types the split-image- or microprism field and the upper part as a protective screen with the lines for landscape or portrait-format and sometimes a grid-net. You only need the lower screen. The RB-screen is easier to dismantle than the RZ type, the Mamiya sercice im Munich sold only the lower part many years ago, they knew that these parts were often used for Rolleis. I have cut the screen very carefully, in order not to scratch it, on all 4 sides with a miniature circular saw. After the installation I had the camera checked for correct focus with a collimator by the former Rollei service Mitterreiter in Munich and it was okay.

 

[Matus Kalisky]

Thank you - I should know it a few days whether I want a new screen or not - the 2.8E is mine

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Thank you - I should know it a few days whether I want a new screen or not - the 2.8E is mine

Very cool! I'm at a birthday party (friend of my 3 year old daughter) and have my 2.E Planar with me right now shooting a roll of Tmax400.

 

[Matus Kalisky]

After unpacking the camera and all the accessories I realised that the camera only had the plain focusing screen installed - the fresnel (with a focusing spot) is included in a separate box. The question is - can I install the fresnel myself? I can only say that the plain focusing screen is not easy to use - there is no "popping in into focus" to speak of.

 

[Xmas]

After unpacking the camera and all the accessories I realised that the camera only had the plain focusing screen installed - the fresnel (with a focusing spot) is included in a separate box. The question is - can I install the fresnel myself? I can only say that the plain focusing screen is not easy to use - there is no "popping in into focus" to speak of.

The ease of focusing on plain spot is dependent on the spot 'roughness - grain' the brightness the 'character' of the Fresnel lens, the Fresnel lens centre spot may be more or less easy to focus with. Some people prefer microprism centre spots, some split image with outer doughnut, some prefer the plain ground.

It is a very subjective thing.

 

[Argenticien]

...The question is - can I install the fresnel myself? ...

Yes. I have a 2.8E (E1, I think) that I received in a mostly functional but very dusty condition. I unscrewed the screws to allow me to take out both the ground glass and the Fresnel for cleaning. Then I replaced them and reinstalled the screws. It's not that difficult, especially if your Fresnel is fully intact, unlike mine which is damaged and crumbling.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27004089@N04/6869219374/ (How the hell do you get the BBcode anymore in the %&^~*&$ horrible new flickr Beta interface?!)

--Dave

 

[jochen]

Hello Matus,
I suppose that the fresnel lens in the separate (Rollei?) box is the original Rollei accessory part which was clipped above the glas screen. It was offered by Rollei as accessory for all models which the ground glas screen after introduction of the "Helleinstellscheibe" together with the cameras with a detachable hood to improve the brightness of the finder image.

 

[Matus Kalisky]

Thank you guys. I will try to put it in (the additional fresnel that is)

I have also ordered the screen from Rick Oleson - I will let you know how it works for me. It is the most cost effective way and for $35 I can not do much wrong. Rick was also very helpful in answering my questions.

 

[baachitraka]

Any experience with Hopf ground glass? I looking to replace the original screen in Rolleicord pref., with a plain ground glass.

 

[ic-racer]

On those cameras the ground glass stays fixed in the camera and the accessory fresnel is installed on top of the ground glass without removing the hood.

 

[gone]

The cut down RZ67 screen is a time tested and good idea. I never cared for the really bright fresnel screens. You want bright, but not too bright, or you lose contrast. To my eyes it's even harder to focus the camera. I expect you'll find Rick's screen just fine. Your 2.8 lens will make things easy to focus anyway (assuming that your mirror is in good shape).

 

[pgomena]

To install/remove the fresnel on my 2.8C, there are two small metal loops that intrude on the edge of the viewing screen opposite the front of the camera. These hold the tabs on the plastic fresnel in place. On the back of the camera, just below the focusing hood, are three shiny metal tabs. Push the center one to move the metal loops back and forth. It's a bit of a pain to put the fresnel in and jockey it into place, but once it's in position, (ridged side down) you just push the tab on the back to retract the loops and the screen should fall into place and be held there when you release the tab.