Fixer turned pink??

[Scott Gibson]

Well, after five years and hundreds of rolls of film developed, this is honestly a first for me. Last night while souping a roll of Ilford Delta 100 (120, if it matters), I poured out the fixer only to discover that it had turned a bright pink color. And I don't mean merely a faint tint either, this was a rich, vibrant, flamingo pink. It almost looks like the anithalation layer that washes out with the developer.

The negatives came out fine, but I've never seen this before. Should I replace my fixer? It's the Kodak 2-part solution with the hardener. I've only run maybe a half-dozen or so rolls through this particular batch; I even did a clip test beforehand and the film cleared almost instantly. I've shot a roll or two Delta 100 in the past and didn't have this happen. More information if it matters: the developer was Rodinal 1+50 and I use a water stop bath.

I'm thinking I might order a new bottle of fixer just to be on the safe side, but I hate to dump relatively fresh chemicals if I don't have to, since I'm cheap I appreciate any insight anyone has to offer! Thanks in advance!

 

[Rick A]

Mine does that too, but usually looks clear next day. I think it has to do with different chems used with T-grain film.

 

[Rudeofus]

Rick has it right. This is some sensitizer dye which, if a fixer is good, comes off with the fixer, and if the fixer is poor or exhausted, will come off during hours of washing

It does not hurt the fixer and will bleach out over time.

 

[Scott Gibson]

OK, that makes sense - this is only my second or third roll of Delta 100, and my first with the "new" batch of fixer. I guess I've never seen this phenomena before since I've literally never shot a single roll of t-grain film until about six months ago!

Thanks for the replies!!!

 

[whlogan]

This is most likely the anti halation backing on the film.

Logan

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Mine often turns pink or light brown or green. It usually clears later.

 

[hoffy]

I've seen this as well. Quite often, its with a film that has a few blank frames on it.

Just out of curiosity, how long did you fix the delta for? This usually requires a but more time then traditional grain films.

 

[BradS]

I've experienced this discoloration of the fixer but only with Kodak TMax films, never with Ilford Delta 100.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Well, after five years and hundreds of rolls of film developed, this is honestly a first for me. Last night while souping a roll of Ilford Delta 100 (120, if it matters), I poured out the fixer only to discover that it had turned a bright pink color. And I don't mean merely a faint tint either, this was a rich, vibrant, flamingo pink. It almost looks like the anithalation layer that washes out with the developer.

The negatives came out fine, but I've never seen this before. Should I replace my fixer? It's the Kodak 2-part solution with the hardener. I've only run maybe a half-dozen or so rolls through this particular batch; I even did a clip test beforehand and the film cleared almost instantly. I've shot a roll or two Delta 100 in the past and didn't have this happen. More information if it matters: the developer was Rodinal 1+50 and I use a water stop bath.

I'm thinking I might order a new bottle of fixer just to be on the safe side, but I hate to dump relatively fresh chemicals if I don't have to, since I'm cheap I appreciate any insight anyone has to offer! Thanks in advance!

It is the anti halation layer or at least what hasn't been washed out with previous processing steps. It is also a pretty good sign that it is time for new fixer.consider to switch to a two-bath fixing regiminefor complete fixing.

 

[Rick A]

It is the anti halation layer or at least what hasn't been washed out with previous processing steps. It is also a pretty good sign that it is time for new fixer.consider to switch to a two-bath fixing regiminefor complete fixing.

Maybe Ralph, but the OP states there has only been half dozen rolls through the fixed. It may be the choice of developer and time in the soup, shorter times in any or all solutions not dissolving the sensitizers and AH layer completely. I haven't had this issue since I switched to presoak for three minutes. T-grain films require longer fix times to remove these residues, and some times it does show in the fixer, but I don't believe it has any effect on the quality or shortens life of the fixer. The OP refers to his clip test prior to that film run, and his fixer was fresh enough to clear almost immediately.

 

[Rudeofus]

@Logan and @Ralph: I don't think this is the anti halation layer:

1. Why would anti halation layer be red/magenta?
2. Anti halation layer does not stick to silver halide grains, therefore it would likely wash out during prewash or development. If it doesn't wash out during either of these two steps, why would it suddenly wash out with the fixer?
3. PhotoEngineer says it's (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

 

[RalphLambrecht]

@Logan and @Ralph: I don't think this is the anti halation layer:

1. Why would anti halation layer be red/magenta?
2. Anti halation layer does not stick to silver halide grains, therefore it would likely wash out during prewash or development. If it doesn't wash out during either of these two steps, why would it suddenly wash out with the fixer?
3. PhotoEngineer says it's (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

go with what PE says. He knows this stuff better than anybody here.

 

[Scott Gibson]

It does not hurt the fixer and will bleach out over time.

Go figure, I checked my chemicals when I got home last night and fixer has indeed reverted back to crystal clear.

I've seen this as well. Quite often, its with a film that has a few blank frames on it.

Just out of curiosity, how long did you fix the delta for? This usually requires a but more time then traditional grain films.

I fixed this roll for six minutes, which is slightly longer than my usual five. Should I be fixing longer still?

I think I'm going to chalk it up to being sensitizing dyes, as was mentioned above. Regardless, I did order a new bottle of Ilford Rapid Fixer just to have in case my next clip test gives poor results. Thanks everyone for the input!

 

[Scott Gibson]

go with what PE says. He knows this stuff better than anybody here.

If that's what PE says than that's good enough for me. Although I notice in the linked thread, he refers to the film itself being stained pink, not the chemicals. In my case the negatives look fine with no unusual staining or fogging whatsoever.

 

[Xmas]

Go figure, I checked my chemicals when I got home last night and fixer has indeed reverted back to crystal clear.



I fixed this roll for six minutes, which is slightly longer than my usual five. Should I be fixing longer still?

I think I'm going to chalk it up to being sensitizing dyes, as was mentioned above. Regardless, I did order a new bottle of Ilford Rapid Fixer just to have in case my next clip test gives poor results. Thanks everyone for the input!

I allus fix by inspection and Delta 100 and 400 need twice as long to clear as Hp5+, FP4+ or Fomapan400 in same multi tank... so.

 

[Rudeofus]

Although I notice in the linked thread, he refers to the film itself being stained pink, not the chemicals. In my case the negatives look fine with no unusual staining or fogging whatsoever.

If fixer is weak and/or exhausted, there will be retained silver halide in the emulsion, and as a result there will be sensitizing dye that won't wash out. In such a case your film will retain that magenta cast. In your case, on the other side, the fixer did its job well, therefore you had the dye washed out in your fixer.

Evidently the majority on APUG uses weak and/or exhausted fixer

 

[BradS]

Evidently the majority on APUG uses weak and/or exhausted fixer

Why sling mud at the majority?

 

[Rudeofus]

Why sling mud at the majority?

It is a known and well established fact (just search for >magenta dye site:apug.org<), that most postings about "that magenta dye" (and there are threads going over a dozen pages about this) revolve about negatives having that magenta cast, not about the fixer having a magenta hue. Feel free to draw your own conclusions ...