first batch of chemicals and film, is this correct?

Denis R · Oct 22, 2009

FILM: Ilford Delta 400

DEVELOPER: Kodak D-76 mix stock solution to dilute at 1:1 as needed, develop14m @ 68*f in small tank

STOP: Ilford Ilfostop mix 1+19, stop 10 sec.

FIX: Ilford Rapid Fixer mix 1+4, does not contain hardener and sodium thiosulphate (hypo) , fix 2 5 m

RINSE: water 30 sec.

HYPO CLEAR: Kodak Hypo clearing Agent mix stock solution to dilute at 1:4 as needed, 1 2 m may not be necessary??

WASH: water 5 m

WETTING AGENT: Kodak Photo-Flo 200 1:200 30 sec.

DRY: Air hang to dry, use clothes pins

bulk loading 35mm the hard way, in the dark with a mark on the bench....
will be interesting to see how it all turns out

have been using t-max 400 and t-max dev. @ school

nickandre · Oct 22, 2009

Looks all good. If you get gunk you can try using distilled water to mix your photo flo. I've tried it and worked wonders. You might try extending the stop time; I've always used 2 minutes.

I contest your last statistic.

Christopher Walrath · Oct 22, 2009

Looks good here as well. Might consider the Ilford 5-10-20 method for washing. A little more proactive. Can save on water as well.

ann · Oct 23, 2009

you really don't need the hypo clear and a second for the ILford method of washing

Soeren · Oct 23, 2009

Your dev is all wrong, use Rodinal instead
I dont use a stop bath but only a thorough waterrinse
I allways dry film in our bathrom and steam the room to bind the dust before hanging the film to dry.
Best regards

Ian Grant · Oct 23, 2009

Have to agree with Ann, HCA is completely unnecessary with films and RC papers. Again another advocate of the Ilford wash method although I extend the cycle, but it still uses a fraction of the water of a 5 minute wash.

Ian

fotch · Oct 23, 2009

"use clothes pins"

There is a reason they make film hangers and sooner or later, using clothes pins, you will find out why.

Fireguy2002 · Oct 23, 2009

So, I think I've developed one more roll than the OP. What's the 5-10-20 method? I'd rather someone tell me about the clothespins before I dick up a roll.

photomem · Oct 23, 2009

From what I remember re:clothespins.. Of course, they are made of wood. Wood is porous and will pick up water and any chemicals which may be hanging around. Also, from my experience using clothespins, they do stick. Like I said before, I use zinc coated bulldog clips, you can get them at any office store. My "method" is to make a loop with a rubber band around the hole in the bulldog clip, then make another loop around the shower rod, I hang my processed film there to dry then if anything drips off, it will drip into the bathtub, fire up the shower and wash it down the drain.

fotch · Oct 23, 2009

As others have said, wood is porous although I have seen plastic. They slip so your film could end up on the floor, any metal parts, unless Stainless Steel, will rust. Not weighted so your film will curl unless you improvise a weight for the bottom one and hope it doesn't fall off.

The film holders often have a pin or pyramid jaw to bite on the film so it won't slip. Can be made of plastic and stainless steel or all stainless steel.

A pair will have one end weighted and is used on the bottom to keep the film from curling.

Often available used, not that expensive new, last almost forever.

fotch · Oct 23, 2009

Oh, almost forgot, As others have said, the film sometimes stick to the wood.

Fireguy2002 · Oct 23, 2009

Ok, I did experience that, but didn't affect the unexposed areas so i wasn't too concerned. I think once my techniques move beyond junior high photography it might bother me.

first batch of chemicals and film, is this correct?

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