few stupid questions

[nzeeman]

1. is there a difference in time in developer when developing iso 100 and iso 200 film
2. how do i make stronger white on photos when enlarging
3. how do i make sepia

i think thats all for now
thanks all of u in advance

 

[Soeren]

Not stupid Questions at all:
1. not easy to answer but if you look at the different films you will see that mostly faster film need more time, but it all depend on the type and make of film and developer.
2. less light on the paper by either less exposing ,dogding the highlights and/or use denser negs, thats denser in the highlight, meaning longer development.
3. Buy or borrow a book covering toning and you will find ansvers to most of your qustions about that.

 

[KenM]

It really depends on the film and developer combination. It's always suggested to start with manufacturer times, and adjust as required. Or, cut your film speed in 1/2, and go from there. Regardless, until you evaluate your negatives (and prints if neccessary), you'll be wandering around in the dark.

I assume by 'stronger whites' you mean brighter whites. When enlarging, you have a couple of things you can do: decrease the initial exposure - this will of course lighten the blacks as well, so you can increase the magenta to get a bit more contrast. Depending on the paper that you use, you may have to increase exposure to compensate for the neutral density effect of the magenta filter (reducing the amount of light hitting the paper, further lightening the whites). If you're using graded papers (generally uncommon these days) you can jump to a higher grade to increase the contrast. You can also use a dilute solution of potassium ferricyanide (bleach) on the whites to further brighten them.

Sepia toning is done through a bleach/re-development process - instructions can be found on the sepia toner packages themselves. I can't give you more details than that, since I've never done it....

Hope that helps you out!

 

[Soeren]

Are you using a color/multigrade head on your enlarger, multigrade filters or graded paper ?
Søren

 

[nzeeman]

i have color head on enlarger

 

[Bob F.]

There are no stupid questions: only dumb answers...

Speaking of which.....

1) Always check the manufacturer's data. It will give you times which will give you reasonable results. Experiment from there. In general, faster film requires longer development.

2) Not sure what you mean here. Do you mean you are getting greys instead of white? If so, you are probably printing with too low a contrast. Increase contrast filtration. Ilford has a PDF called CONTRAST CONTROL here: (http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html) which has charts of colour head settings for different types of enlargers for the different contrast grades for their Multigrade papers. The instructions that come with your paper may have similar instructions too in the box.

3) Simplest is to buy a kit. Get an odorless version as the traditional type is very smelly (rotten egg smell) and the fumes can fog unexposed emulsion. Use the smelly type OUTSIDE the darkroom (preferably, outside the house!).


Good luck, Bob.

 

[David Brown]

2) Not sure what you mean here. Do you mean you are getting greys instead of white? ...

I don't want to complicate the matter - especially for a novice, but I'm concerned that you may be getting fogged prints. If there is no white at all, regardless of exposure time, your paper might be fogged. What color are the edges (unexposed areas) of the prints?