Expired Kodak Elite Chrome 200

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George Mann

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I have a single canister of it. It is of unknown age and expiration date, and stored for 2 1/2 years in an uncontrolled storage unit.

To shoot or not to shoot?
 

trendland

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I have a single canister of it. It is of unknown age and expiration date, and stored for 2 1/2 years in an uncontrolled storage unit.

To shoot or not to shoot?

Shot for sure! !!
with following exeptions :

- No advertising shotings
- No marriage shoting
- No product shotings
- No portrait shotings
- No beauty shots
- No use in holydays
- No use to shot own childs
- No use to shot own wife
- No use to shot parents of own wife

Remaining : Shots of your

- grandpa
- secretary (while holydays also allowed)
- hobbys, railway trains a.s.o.
- shots of animals in forest water locations

- LANDSCAPES

with regards

:D:D....
 
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George Mann

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If and when I do, I figure that shooting it at ISO 50 would be a safe bet.
 

trendland

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If and when I do, I figure that shooting it at ISO 50 would be a safe bet.
No with this method you definitive will fail.
Elitechrome is not extrem old.I also have
some remaining.
With a little luck it is from 2009?
The best use is E.I 200 and the you will
see.
Perhaps E.I. 160 - more I personaly would
Not trust.
Notice : Biggest danger with E6 is overexposure.
Big danger with c-41 is underexposure.
E6 has normal tolerances + - 1/3 stop.
So the absolut max. could be E.I. 125 ISO
if you can be sure your film has a lost of speed 1/3 stop.
But nobody can say for sure.
with regards
 
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George Mann

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No with this method you definitive will fail.

OK, but it was stored very poorly. I originally thought that they stopped producing it in 2000. But it turns out the actual date was 2011. Unfortunately, there is no way to know when this roll was actually produced.
 
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George Mann

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I am thinking around 2007-2009, which means it will need to be shot closer to ISO 100.
 
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trendland

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The barcode on the canister is 003793.
Never mind of the speed.THE worst case is not a total underexposure the case are the colors.
I made experience with Agfa RSX II
they are good within the expiring dates.
But this only sometimes:sad::sad::sad:........
Next is Kodak Ektachrome : Normal
colors after 3 - 4 years overstorage.
Within 5. - 6. year tendencies to blue color
shift/cast.
Always with box speed.
Best results with Fuji E6 (Astia100) - just
regular colors within 6 -7 years overstorage.
A tendency to pale colors but without shotings.
THE Astia was an emulsion with neutral
color composition.Best to architecture shots.
Overstored it is Very Neutral:D:happy::D....
But if your film has seen high temperatures just to some days it weeks -
there is no help at all.
Normal room temperature is not so good to store films a long time but it depends.
All amateure emulsions see normaly bad
storage conditions to 1-2 years.
They are designed to handle this.
But direct sun behind the frontwindow of cars caused temperatures of 70 - 85 degree C.
This is the end to very emulsion after some hours.
Definitifly after some days :sad::mad::sad:.
So if films are not handled this way there are some remaining chances witin 6-8
years overstorage.
Films from 1983,1976,1989 are waste of time.
Wondering sometimes when it is offered on ebay ??????
Bon chance - try it with E.I. 100 -
I would chouse E.I.160 with great hope
to expiring date 2010.
 

Cholentpot

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I will bracket it at 80-100-125-160?

I read somewhere that slide does not lose speed it just has color shifts. Is this true? I dunno, I never shot slide although I have a baggie full of it in my freezer.
 

Down Under

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With all my expired films, and especially so when I am unsure of its manufacture date, I do one of the following two things:

One. Your first option is to take three shots of every image. One at full box speed (in your case, 200), one at a half stop more (+1/2. so 160 or 125, depending on the light conditions), and one at one stop more (+1, so 100). At the very least, if your roll is 36 exposures, you may (this being the qualifier word) get 12 usable images, if it is 24 exposures, then 8 usable images.

Two. Your second option is to do one of the following -
1. Put the roll in the nearest garbage bin and shoot fresh(er) film.
2. Shoot it at one-third stop more (+1/3, so 160) and cross-process it in E6 chemistry.
3. Sell it on Ebay for up to ten times what you paid for it.

Otherwise, trendland's excellent advice is basically what I would follow.
 

trendland

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I read somewhere that slide does not lose speed it just has color shifts. Is this true? I dunno, I never shot slide although I have a baggie full of it in my freezer.


It is depending to all conditions wich are working to film materials within the time - I would like to say.
Comming again to the lost of speed.
We know this from bw - and with bw it is a very simple problem. New bw films have a date of use within 3 YEARS !!! If you use a bw film some say give it 1 stop more to every decade.
But what will happen if E6 films are underexposed ?
It is not so nice in projection - but it depends, because you can increase the light while projection a bit. Mostly it is ok up to a half stop underexposure.
So it is no catastrophe. Even underexposed slides with -1 stop are most ok to enlarge them.
The oposite is when you overexpose it 1/2 stop - it is the end to 85% of all slides:cry::cry:....

With c41 films from massive overstorage you can have the chance to filter color shifts while enlarging/printing a bit.

Whit E6 in projektion you will see the exact color the slides have - there is no chance to any correction of the smalest color shifts.

So it might have a lost of speed with E6 because the basis of this emulsion is a bw film. But this is not so much the fact. It depends strongly to the tendency of color shifts, this possible is in concern with the layers of the bw basis but it depends probably much more on the interaction of the color agents.

So I see a tendency of lost stability with Fuji Astia after several years wich is very evenly to all layers.
The opposite is with Agfa emulsions after 2 years from my experience.

Last sentence : YOU can´t avoid color shiftings with overstored E6 by compensating a possible lost of speed.But there are limited ways to compensate and correct colors with
development. This is not so easy and makes only sense with a big ammound of films of the same type and date and the same overstorage time.

with regards
 
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