Efke PL100 and night exposure

[Buster6X6]

I have heard a lot of good things about Efke films.So I got some EfkePl100 from JandC in 4X5.I shut about 10 frames during the day, coming back from my sons place around ten o`clock at night it was a beautifull turn of the century corner store on my way home lit with street lights and interior lighting.I got my Seconic L508 meter out and try to get to mesure available light .Spot meter was showing under exposure what ever setting I used and reflective was showing about 30 sec. which I felt was not enough to expose this scene.I used a guess and exposed first exposure at f22 for 3 min. and second one at the same f22 for 5min. Now to my question. What would be the proper way to meter and expose scene like this?And how should I develop the two negatives?

 

[doughowk]

I would suspect at f22, it is way underexposed. For f22 with 100 ASA film under sodium light, Sanderson (in Night Photography ) suggests an exposure of 52 min, 50 sec. Efke 100 also has high reciprocity failure values.

 

[Konical]

What would be the proper way to meter and expose scene like this?And how should I develop the two negatives?

Good Morning, Buster 6x6,

I've found that metering for night scenes is generally impractical. Stick with a particular film/developer combination and make test shots. Gradually, experience will give you a good idea of exposure in most cases.

Konical

 

[matt miller]

In my experience with EfkePL100, exposing for zone V, at f22; EV4 requires 3'15", EV2 requires 25', EV0 would be over an hour or more. Depending on how bright the lights were, you should have some detail where the scene is lit, but you won't have anything in the shadows. I would develop by inspection & not expect great results.

 

[rogueish]

I just experimented with Ilford Delta 400,120 format for some night shots. My lightmeter (not spotmeter) won't give me any kind of reading so I winged it. I did 3 shots of each scene, then changed position to give me a different amount of light, then repeated the 3 exposures. 10 sec, 20 sec, and 30 secounds then developed at regular dev times. (yes I know, it needs to be increased, that's the next experiment). 30 secound exposure with normal ISO dev times is definitley not enough. All negs have images, but only one will be (barely) printable. Tonight I'll be going out and repeating the test shots but will give longer develop times.
Sorry I can't help with the proper metering for your situation, but am interested in any replies you get.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I've been experimenting a bit with XR-1 as a push developer--

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/XR-1/xr-1.html

I haven't tried it for night photography, but the results I've gotten so far suggest that it would be really good for that purpose. It really boosts film speed about two stops but the formula produces a low contrast result. For my use (handheld photography under more normal and low light conditions) I want more contrast, but for night photography where you've got very bright sources combined with virtual darkness, it might be just right.

 

[mikewhi]

Of course, films are different, but I did a lot of night photography like your scene with Plus-X developed in Rodinal. Exposure times were 30-seconds but I don't recall the f-stop. Probably wasn't anything like f\22, though. You can look in my gallery for some night scenes in Mexico shot at 30 sec. with Plus-X.

I determined the exposure using a Gossen Luna-Six. I walked into the shadows and stood there allowing the mter to take a reading and I locked the reading in and walked into the light to read it. I found this meter to be very reliable in low-light scenes - unlike my Pentax 1deg digital. Then I processed the film the next day in Rodinal to be sure the exposures were correct. They came out fine. The immediate feedback helped on subsequent excursions where the light was even lower. So, a good low-light meter combined with some trial and error shoudl help you zero in on the correct times for this film but don't expect it to turn out ok the very first time.

-Mike

 

[Deckled Edge]

I just experimented with Ilford Delta 400...then developed at regular dev times. (yes I know, it needs to be increased....

Welcome Buster6X6. Glad you're here. Actually, Rogueish, development times are usually DECREASED with long exposures for reciprocity failure. With correct, loooong exposures, whatever they finally work out to be for you, you will correct the extra contrast by decreasing your usual development by up to 30%. Again, this is an additional source of experimentation. Most films recommend N-3 development for any exposure over 20 minutes. Of course YMMV!

 

[rogueish]

Welcome Buster6X6. Glad you're here. Actually, Rogueish, development times are usually DECREASED with long exposures for reciprocity failure. With correct, loooong exposures, whatever they finally work out to be for you, you will correct the extra contrast by decreasing your usual development by up to 30%. Again, this is an additional source of experimentation. Most films recommend N-3 development for any exposure over 20 minutes. Of course YMMV!

Hmmm...
Didn't realize that. I know I've likely read that (almost) exact statement here on APUG, but it seems it never sunk in. Guess I'll have to experiment more... Excuse me gotta go get more film!
"Honest honey! I gotta go out and take more pictures because I'm experimenting so I can post my findings on APUG! No really, this is important!"

 

[Buster6X6]

Thanks everyone.
I am glad I found this forum.I have been with photography for 30 years and last year I decided to go B&W exclusively, more I learned more I found how little I knew.Friend of mine told me , in the sixties they would expose street scenes at f22 for 25 min. I should have taken his advice. Anyway more or less I am going to have to experiment. I like HP5+ , Acros and TRI-X in 6X6, I am still searching for 4X5 film .Mostly use Rodinal 1+50 and 1+100 just started using PMK (excellent).I also ordered some more film from jandc I`ll try the same scene until I get some good results .I will post my findings .
Buster6X6

 

[Buster6X6]

Finally I had some time to develop the negatives and print my night exposures.This one PL 100 f22 for 5 min.They came out pretty good.I developed it in PMK and it is a straight print no burning or dodging.I have not had a chance to try Tmax as Mr.Konical suggested.It has been so cold brrrr....for so long.Better weather is coming.

Just to let you know what the result was .

Thanks Greg

 

[Buster6X6]

I forgot to insert the print darn.Sorry

 

[noseoil]

Greg, you might give the Efke 25 a try for night shooting if you get some. It has much better reciprocity characteristics than the 100 (go figure on that one, one of its few redeeming graces), so there should be a shot or two in there somewhere. For a first try, this shot looks very good.

I've played around a bit with night stuff and transparency film and have found that the best metering system is good notes. If you will keep a note book handy and work out a simple exposure guide, after a couple of rolls things should firm up quite a lot. Since scenes vary so much, try to keep track of known light sources (street lamps, window lighting, etc.) and distances. This will make it easier. Development times are the same. Try different times and you will get a feel for those bright light sources and the balance.

If you can get a copy of the latest View Camera magazine, there is some really nice work in it. tim

 

[Buster6X6]

Thanks Tim
Those are really good pointers.I am still trying to figure out what film works with what.
I have to make it a habit to take notes.Right now I do it some time when it is important.It sure makes sense what you were saying.

Greg

 

[rogueish]

Since scenes vary so much, try to keep track of known light sources (street lamps, window lighting, etc.) and distances.

Make sure you keep track of type of lightbulb too. The ever popular soduim streetlight (orange) is giving away to high pressure sodium (orange/white). The high pressure type are brighter.
Mercury vapour looks brighter, but really isn't to a camera. Also looks white but has a greenish tinge to colour film, I know, won't really affect B&W, but just FYI.

 

[a0667318]

Busta, I was looking at the print scan. Looks like the negs were over developed and still under exposed. (sings blown out and roof line detail lacking) You might try f8 @ 1,2,5,15,25 sec with contracted development take notes. The contact sheet will tell you which is proper. Then, in the future you can compair scene brightness and know which time will be closer. That scene might be 5 sec. @f8 iso 400 and maybe 25sec. @f8 iso 100 fwiw mark

 

[Buster6X6]

With no experience those little things get missed.I new it was a right thing to join this forum.Great suggestions.I have not done to much night photography so when I could print it I thought it was all right. With nothing to compare it to it is essential to belong to a forum like this.

Greg