Efke in Xtol times.

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waynecrider

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Does anyone have any times for Efke PL100 in Xtol dilutions, 1:2 or 1:3. The massive dev chart list 11.75 minutes @ 20c, but rating the film at an ISO of 80. I shot at 100 and don't know whether to go up or down in time.
 
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waynecrider

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It ain't looking good.

After some developing today, it looks as if my E.I. will be going down a least a stop.
 

Peter Schrager

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Xtol and Pl100

Wayne-I only have the time for Xtol 1:1 @ 75 degrees. 5:45 to 6 minutes. PL100 is already pretty much fine grain at ASA 100 and I do my other films at 1:1 so that's what I chose. My experience is that PL100 and Xtol is hit or miss.
I love it in Pyrocat but it won;'t work for all situations. So today I decided to try some HC-110 (which is what I had in the house) I down rated the PL100 to ASA 64 and developed in HC-110 @1:63 at 75 degrees for 7:15 and 7:55 minutes. Both negatives are good but I prefer a slightly contrastier negative because of my Zone-VI lighthead. Proofed on Oriental VC paper the results are stunning. I mean really exquisite. Reminded me of some pix I once saw produced by Ansel in the 30's.Beautiful gradation. The values for the trees and the buildings;sky and clouds are right where they should be.This film really fills a gap. Since pyrocat gets all the play I felt I needed to share this with the communuty. I'm awaiting on some Paterson Acculux to try out also; but the HC-110 is something you should see for yourself.
Best, Peter
 
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waynecrider

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peters said:
Wayne-I only have the time for Xtol 1:1 @ 75 degrees. 5:45 to 6 minutes. PL100 is already pretty much fine grain at ASA 100 and I do my other films at 1:1 so that's what I chose. My experience is that PL100 and Xtol is hit or miss.
I love it in Pyrocat but it won;'t work for all situations. So today I decided to try some HC-110 (which is what I had in the house) I down rated the PL100 to ASA 64 and developed in HC-110 @1:63 at 75 degrees for 7:15 and 7:55 minutes. Both negatives are good but I prefer a slightly contrastier negative because of my Zone-VI lighthead. Proofed on Oriental VC paper the results are stunning. I mean really exquisite. Reminded me of some pix I once saw produced by Ansel in the 30's.Beautiful gradation. The values for the trees and the buildings;sky and clouds are right where they should be.This film really fills a gap. Since pyrocat gets all the play I felt I needed to share this with the communuty. I'm awaiting on some Paterson Acculux to try out also; but the HC-110 is something you should see for yourself.
Best, Peter

Thanks Peter; My problem was that the film was just dog gone underexposed. I tried two different lenses just to make sure it wasn't the shutter speeds. Overall I'm a little pissed off about it. I was really looking for a full speed rating. Slap a filter on the lens and your down into the 25 iso range and that's not good with wind, which usually always blows here in Florida. I'll be selling the rest of the package if your interested.
 

Whiteymorange

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Up to speed

I"ve never had a problem with PL100 being underexposed, rather the opposite. I started rating it at 125 and souping it in Sprint (D76 1-1) or in HC110, dilution B. The one time I put it in Rodinal 1-25 it was way too contrasty for me.

I was shooting outdoors in summer -and my camera's meter may be off by a half stop, but I think the film is usually pretty good at rated speed.

Whitey
 

Peter Schrager

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message for Wayne Crider

Wayne -you shouldn't give up so easily. I'm having a bit of a struggle with the PL100 myself. Firstly-and this I know for sure-you can get box speed or damn close to it with Pyrocat. I redid some HC-110 and now I remember why I haven't touched it in years-it blows out highlights. The pyrocat takes care of that. Being in Florida you shouldn't need all that a heavy filtering. Go easy like a #8 or #12 you only give up half a stop. Pyrocat is the easiest to mix up. You always have fresh developer and you can get that box speed or darn near close.PM me off line and I will help you get your first batch of Pyrocat together. It only takes a few chemicals to do it. Works well with inspection. I'm doing rollfilm with it;APX100 and Acros. HP-5 and PL100 in sheet film. There's a zillion people here using it who probably know ten times as much.
If I'm not using a staining developer then I use XTOL 1:1. No developer is perfect. They all have strengths and weaknesses. I remember that I couldn't develop Tri-x very well either when I started this. The film (PL100 ) is a little finicky but I think its worth a try. You should at least use up the box. Take me up on my offer and you may see a different side of this film.
Best, Peter
 
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