durst laborator 138 mirror and trap lost

[pcyco]

hallo

last weeken i got an laborator138

the only problem i have is the mirror and thetrap of the condensorhead.
they got lost .

does anybody has this old colossus??

i like to build these things by my own.

can anybody take some photos of these part for me.

great would also be th have the measurements of thes things.

or mybe there are some links which would help me.

thanks.

 

[GeorgesGiralt]

Hello Thomas,
There are a lot of 138 lying around. If you contact Durst in Italy they may give you the Autrian importer contact, and he may have some parts left.
Also, try the German shops selling second hand darkroom material. In my Laborator 1000 (limited to 4x5) the mirror is a front surface one. (otherwise you will have a faint ghost image due to the reflection on the glass and the reflection on the mirror...)

 

[pcyco]

hallo

good idea to contact durst-> lets see the prices.
for the mirror i will use a metal one.

 

[pcyco]

hallo

now i have replaced the mirror with the "working"door of an bathtub (mirrored stainless steel)
a 75 watt opal lamp is mounted. and adjusted as well as i can. ("bright as hell 1 sec with my rodagon 80 for medium gray)
first teststrips are made.
Dead Link Removed
sorry for the dots ;-) no time to wipe off the carrierglasses.

next problem -> the darker middle.

is it possible to get a continous gray all over??? (a problem of adjustment???)
i know the problem from my kaiser 7000 but there is no chance to adjust it :-(

i read some articles about the smaller opallamps for mf enlargment, which say it should not be a big problem to adjust it right.
imho the gray-difference between center and border becomes metter the farer the lamp is located backwards. but now there is no possibility to put it more back.
is this the right way, i try it???? -> to get a better overall gray.

thanks for helping

 

[ic-racer]

At this point try a different condenser arrangement to even out the light, then fine-tune again with bulb position.

 

[pcyco]

hallo

for rodagon there is recom. the combination of 160-130 but i only have the cond. for the schneider lense 200-130.

can this be the failure???

which other combination can i try (can be useful)??

thanks for helping

thomas

 

[ic-racer]

200-130 is what you want. Did you focus the lens with a negative. The condenser combos are based on a given lens-to-negative distance and they will change as magnification changes (ie focusing the lens closer or farther from the negative) or as focal length of lens changes.

The 160-130 is only recommended when using an 80mm lens for 17x to 65x enlargements.

 

[pcyco]

hallo


last night i tried to change the condensors i have 130-200-240-240 but only the combination 130-200 works
the others are more worse.

to get more light to the borders i put a reflector of an halogen constructionsite-lamp behind the opallamp.

it was getting better.
Dead Link Removed

there is only the adjustment for the left upper corner to do then i think it works.

an an testimage
Dead Link Removed

oh yes i have cleaned the glasses.
i will now try to get an opalsphere from an lamp to put it over the opallamp.

next thing i want to try is to make an negativecarrier because i only have the 138 standard one. and i see no way to enlarge rollfilmstrips. i only can enlarge the middle one the pics on the side cant be moved far enough. the strips always stand out of the maskframe and would be demaged when i try to mount to negativemask.

has anyone done something or know a useful link expect the pics form the durst-manuals.

have a nice day

thomas

 

[ic-racer]

That is actually very good with what you have done so far. You are miles ahead of people that have never even checked the evenness of illumination. Good work!

Better than I started with my 10x10 Aristo head : http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showpost.php?p=448736&postcount=104

 

[pcyco]

hallo

oh yes (i extra registered to lf to see your pic

can you show an actual one.

now i found a article about the alignment of the enlarger. i wondered thet the midpoint of the negativemask is about 1/3 of overall length out of middle of the workingtable.

anyone knews why this can be so. is the middle of the 6/6 negative mask not in the middle of the overall glassmask?????
maybe if anyone has this mask he would be so kind and make a scan or a photo and post it. the technical drawing would be the best

happy working in the office

thomas

 

[ic-racer]

Getting things centered can by tricky. I use my laser alignment tool to find the exact middle of the lens. It will produce a series of concentric rings when it shines up from the baseboard right on the front of the lens in the middle. Then mark out a square on the baseboard that is exactly centered under the lens. THEN put a negative up in the carrier and project it. If it is not centered on your square on the baseboard, then you need to adjust you negative carrier or mask.

You could also hang a string straight down from the lens (if you enlarger is physically level) to find the middle. Or you can take the negative carrier out and see if you can see a circular projected image of the lens limit (or try a 50mm lens with a smaller image circle). Then trace out this circle and find the middle point on the baseboard, etc.

 

[K-G]

If you want spareparts and other complementary equipment for Durst professional enlargers, you may contact Kienzle Phototechnik in Germany or Durst Professional in USA. Kinzle is probably more convenient when it comes to transportation and custom rules but Durst Professional has a more complete program.
I enclose links to both of them.
Good luck !
Karl-Gustaf

http://www.kienzle-phototechnik.de/
http://www.durst-pro-usa.com/imagine_2009.htm

 

[Mike Wilde]

I just got a 138S yesterday. Pretty good shape, and a pair of 240 condesers, and the universal glass neg carrier. It still has a functioning Thorn 300W lamp. I am aware they are out of production. I was going to see how the spare, a PH212 (or was it a PH213?) covered out to 4x5, which is how I plan to use this beast most often.

Most incandescant lamps will last a lot longer if you don't run them at full line voltage; I know the light output and colour temperature drops off as well. I was toying with the thought of wiring a spare autotransformer I have laying about to run the bulb in this monster at say 105V. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? Or have all gone to cold cathode or an LED light source?.

My thought is that the filtration would all shift, but since blue output falls off most quickly, less Y filtration would be needed for soft negs. There should be less pronounced green output changes, so M filtration may shift, mut more subtly.

 

[ic-racer]

I just got a 138S yesterday. Pretty good shape, and a pair of 240 condesers, and the universal glass neg carrier. It still has a functioning Thorn 300W lamp. I am aware they are out of production. I was going to see how the spare, a PH212 (or was it a PH213?) covered out to 4x5, which is how I plan to use this beast most often.

Most incandescant lamps will last a lot longer if you don't run them at full line voltage; I know the light output and colour temperature drops off as well. I was toying with the thought of wiring a spare autotransformer I have laying about to run the bulb in this monster at say 105V. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? Or have all gone to cold cathode or an LED light source?.

My thought is that the filtration would all shift, but since blue output falls off most quickly, less Y filtration would be needed for soft negs. There should be less pronounced green output changes, so M filtration may shift, mut more subtly.

Yes, protect that bulb, you can work around the color change.

I don't have that 5x7 condenser head, but if I did, I'd convert it over to diffusion. It will make using a glass carrier less painful and I'm thinking it will allow you to use just about any bulb.

I think a diffusion plate was an option for the 5x7 Durst condenser heads that fit below the condensers.


The other thing is that maybe someone makes a 3" or 4" version of these popular 6" globes. You could put any bulb inside that. http://www.bignyc.org/node/355

 

[Mike Wilde]

I actually had a variant of that idea. The 300W Thorn bulb actually has a bit of a 'breathing' notch in the base - so the actual lamp must be in its own capsule inside the big diffusor housing.

The other way when the bulb goes is to break the base out, and try to fit something like the 250W modelling light for my speedotron strobes inside the diffuser.

The old Durst 606 I also picked up the same day says in it's online manual I found that it's design allows you to use a diffused bulb, or a prefocus lamp with a diffuser sheet to even out the light flux as it exits the lamp house. I see no reason why a similar approach would not work for the 138.

 

[ic-racer]

I see no reason why a similar approach would not work for the 138.

Yes.

In fact here is a quote from the Jensen Optical site:

Use it [Durst 5x7 condenser head] as a soft-light head by introducing a diffuser below the condensers

 

[hpulley]

Seemed bizarre to me but my Dad always ran a diffuser below the condenser on his Durst so I still run it that way too...

 

[quine666]

I just got a 138S yesterday. Pretty good shape, and a pair of 240 condesers, and the universal glass neg carrier. It still has a functioning Thorn 300W lamp. I am aware they are out of production. I was going to see how the spare, a PH212 (or was it a PH213?) covered out to 4x5, which is how I plan to use this beast most often.

Most incandescant lamps will last a lot longer if you don't run them at full line voltage; I know the light output and colour temperature drops off as well. I was toying with the thought of wiring a spare autotransformer I have laying about to run the bulb in this monster at say 105V. I was wondering if anyone else has done this?

I do this all the time with variable transformer (Variac). Just be sure that it can handle the amperage you intend to use.

-andrew

 

[pcyco]

hallo

my next variant is to use a 250 watt halogenlamp inside a white glass globe.

im not sure about the heat.

is it complicated tu make a diy tem. controlled. fan???

a other question:

which mg filters shoul i use.??
some for the drawer or the other ones in front of the lense???

analog greetings

thomas

ps.: is there a possibility to rename the thread cause the threadname does not realy fit anymore

 

[Mike Wilde]

I do this all the time with variable transformer (Variac). Just be sure that it can handle the amperage you intend to use.

-andrew

Electrical engineer here. Actaully there are several autotransformers kicking around in my work shop. When I see gear being scrapped that is one of the key salvage components I go after if I get the chance. But I would be sure to use one rated for the load.

I was actually thinking of re-doing the taps. Right now it is set up as a boost, to take in 120V and kick out up to 250V so I can test 220V gear that I sometimes find here in NA to see if it is working before deciding how feasible it is to convert it to 120V service if it is otherwise of use to me. A re-tapping ( there are several connection options available on this unit would allow) would allow finer adjustment if I set the impressed line voltage across the entire coil, and then tap off some lesser fraction of line voltage.

 

[GeorgesGiralt]

Hello Thomas,
IMHO, I would use under the lens filters. the big filters you'll need for the drawer would cost more than the under the lens kit.
This way it would be very easy to change filter during a printing session if you ever need more than one filter in one print.
But it's just me ....

 

[ic-racer]

Under lens or over negative, probably no difference, especially with larger format printing. I made an under-lens holder for the $45 Ilford set, because the "above the negative" filters of 12"x12" were over $200 for the set.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showpost.php?p=428239&postcount=77

 

[pcyco]

hallo

not 12" im fron good old austria we measure in cm.

my problem is i have no mounted filterholder -> also lost before i got it.
i have to design a holder and the fastening.

this weekend i handcrafted a cover for the mirror (out of cardbord). -> works well

and i began with the negativeholder. i hope i get it ready this week.

i also must enlarge my darkroom for this monster. 20 cm for slitp throgh into the darkroom is to less.
so i have to lighttighten the next room about 35 m².

i hope i have time to make some photos too

analog greetings

thomas

 

[GeorgesGiralt]

Hello Thomas,
Cokin filters holders make perfect under the lens filter holders..
As they are easily adaptable to various lens filter size, it's easy to put on your enlarging lens...

 

[pcyco]

hallo

oh yes thanks.

often i dont think the easiest way.

analog greetings

thomas