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Arelia99

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Ok...we all have are permitted one of these newbie questions right? So here is mine!

I have been using Delta 400 film. I have read that people recommend shoting it at 320 rather than 400 iso. If I do this then when I develop the film do I process at 320 rather than 400? The massive develpment chart (for Delta 400 in D-76) says 9.5 with a stock solution for 400 iso. So if I shot at 320 then would I process for a shorter time...around 8 minutes or so?

Thanks!
Nancy
 

Amund

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No, I`d develop as normal. If it comes out too contrasty(wich I doubt) reduce 10%
It`s only a 1/3 stop....
 

Roger Hicks

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Dear Nancy,

Stick with the same dev time. There are two main reasons for giving 1/3 stop extra exposure. One is that many people prefer the tonality they get that way. The other is it gives a modest buffer against underexposure.

As for dev times, if the majority of 'normal' subjects print on grade 2 to 3, the dev time is OK. If you need hard paper a lot, grades 4 and 5, your negs lack contrast and need more dev time, and if you need soft paper a lot, grades 1 and 0, your negs are too contrasty and need less dev time.

By 'normal' subjects I mean, e.g. not black cats in coal cellars,. spotlit singers or anything backlit.

You might find parts of the Photo School at www.rogerandfrances.com useful -- about half of it is free, and if you like it, you can subscribe to see the other half.

Cheers,

Roger
 

Tony Egan

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Don't be afraid to ask. Most of us are quite gentle most of the time!

What you are suggesting is to marginally overexpose the film and then underdevelop it compared to the "normal" ISO rating of Delta 400. As a rule this reduces the contrast of the negative. Why you would want to do this could depend on many factors such as subject luminance, type of enlarger, preferred paper and aesthetics of the final print you are trying to make. The reason to overexpose a negative film (lower ISO) is usually to do with ensuring sufficient shadow detail. There are also those who believe film manufacturers tend to exaggerate the "real speed" of film.

As you are shooting 35mm and are lilkely to be shooting a variety of subject matter with different subject exposure ranges on one roll, shooting at 320 will tend to be a "safety factor" for the shadows. Then using development time for 400ISO may on occasions start to give you some heavy highlights but I don't think it would be a serious problem.

The best thing to do is experiment. Process one roll at 9.5m and another at 8m and look at the difference. Shadow details should be pretty much the same and only the highlights impacted. For the last 5 shots on each roll expose a blank wall at -2, -1, n, +1 and +2 using your in-camera meter and compare. If you can get access to a densitometer you can measure the differences and determine which range is closest to the normal ranges.

This all assumes of course perfect chemical mixing, temperature control, agitation etc etc. Be careful not to be dragged into the search for the magic bullet or follow every new piece of advice you read! Get close enough for your preferred style, settle on a repeatable technique and then just take lots of photos. Only change something once you have perfected one process and then one variable at a time.
 

Roger Hicks

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Tony Egan said:
Be careful not to be dragged into the search for the magic bullet or follow every new piece of advice you read! Get close enough for your preferred style, settle on a repeatable technique and then just take lots of photos. Only change something once you have perfected one process and then one variable at a time.

Absolutely!

R.
 
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Arelia99

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Thanks!

You guys are great! I think I will have a look at the rolls I have developed so far and try to get a sense for how they have exposed, then decide what steps I want to take next! Thanks again!

Nancy
 

Tony Egan

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Nancy,
The best way to test a negative is "minimax proofing". Making a print at an exposure for the minimum time to get to maximum black through a clear piece of film base. You may be aware of this technique and I'm sure there are other threads on APUG and other articles on the net. Using this technique you can diagnose under and over exposure and under and over development quite quickly. You will eventually find with good negative exposure and development for certain paper sizes there will be an exposure time for a particular paper that you will gravitate towards. Any significant deviation from this means a negative "problem" (printing challenge!)

e.g. for a given paper type & size and film & format I know that 28secs at f11 means a near "perfect" negative will give a good test print first go. Getting to this level of certainty saves a lot of time and improves printing and confidence in the darkroom tremendously.
 
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