Developing and/ or some other problem... need help

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VoidoidRamone

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So recently I have been using WD2D+ in addition to my favorite, Rodinal. After the first couple of rolls I developed and printed from I really liked this stuff, great tones. But now I have become more critical and noticed that there is a streak in the same place in a bunch of negs/prints using the WD2D+, but not the Rodinal. So since it's not happening with the Rodinal I can assume that it's not the lens or back that has a leak. I use the recommended 2 min pre-wash and use the 1:1:50 dilution, and I get the streaks. Other than the developer, everything is constant (lenses, backs, film, etc.) Does anybody know what I am doing wrong here?

You will see the streak in the top center of the 'sunflower' picture... but it's no where to be seen in the other one. Both of these shots were with the same 120 back, 90mm lens, APX100... the sunflower one was in WD2D+ 1:1:50 for 9:30 (I think, it's the recommended time plus 30 sec.) and the umbrella one was in Rodinal 1:50 for 17:30. Any ideas? Thanks for any and all help. -Grant
 

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Peter Schrager

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W2D2+

Mr Ramone- I wasn't aware that W2D2+ could be used with rollfilm. You may want to try rollo-pyro which has been formulated for tank development. Formulary carries it.Personally I've been having my own problems with W2D2+ Johm Wimberly claims that the negatives turn a brownish color-do yours? I've never seen it. I followed all the directions too (sheet film) Now I've used this stuff since the mid-nineties with no problem. Easy to make and stores indefinately. My primary concern was making dual negatives for silver and Platinum. Realistically I've only gotten mixed reviews and that would probably go for ALL the tanning developers. This in regard to them being ALL things to All people. I'd like to try Pyrocat-Hd but the threads claim it doesn't work that well for V.C. paper-PLEASE FOLKS DON'T CHIME IN THIS NOT ABOUT W2D2+ vs. PROCAT! iI find that wd2d2 will work better with graded paper but I use VC paper. Why is he recommending a stop bath? All it seems to do is strip away the
pyro mask. I even tried stand development with it the other day and got some really mixed results-none that were good. I really wish that John Wimberly would show up on this thread to clarify exactly what he had in mind when he re-formulated this stuff(?) Try Rollo-pyro!
Peter
 

Mateo

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I haven't used this stuff for quite a while and I don't think I used a reformulated version so take this with a grain of salt. Agitation is critical with most staining developers. You have to figure out a method that works with roll film and for me that meant one agitation cycle every 15 sec. That may or may not be the case for your situation. Another thing is to used distilled water not only in making the concentrate but also in the working solution and in the presoak. And lastly, I add a pinch of EDTA for every liter of working sol developer. I don't know much about this but this has been my experience.
 
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VoidoidRamone

VoidoidRamone

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Peter- I am pretty sure that WD2D+ can be used for roll film since the instructions that come with it have dev. times for APX100 & 400 (they don't make sheets of that). But I do plan on trying rollopyro anyways. And yes, my negs have something of a sepia stain to them, I use a water stop with constant agitation, then TF-4, no hypo-clear, and a wash for 6-10 min.
Mateo- That makes sense about the agitaion, I'm usually not as careful as I should be. And also I use tap water, but I think we have pretty clean water in my neighborhood. Thanks for the help thus far, it gives me some options to play around with. -Grant
 

gainer

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It does look a little like the opposite of "bromide drag" to me. This looks like a streak of extra development, which would indicate the bromide is everywhere BUT the streak.

You say the streak was always in the pyro developed negs and in the same place? Such streaks usually depend on the subject matter, and should be in different places for different subjects. This is indeed a puzzle.

I have not found agitation schedule to be as much a problem as some others have when I use PMK or Pyrocat HD or any of my own staining developers. I do not use "gentle" agitation, however. The purpose of agitation is to get a uniform mixture of developer constitiuents including oxidation products. If you don't want that, don't agitate. At least that is my advice to myself.
 

titrisol

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never used WD2D, so I don;t know if rpesoak is reccommended. It may help with those uneven spots.

Also APX100 was available in sheets until recently.
 

noblebeast

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I have been using WD2D+ with roll film of all makes and speeds for a year now and have not run into any streaking or other abnormalities associated with staining developers. After reading your methods, the only suggestion I would make is buy a bottle of distilled water to mix the developer with. Although your local tap water may be "clean," as I understand it the ph of the water can have not so pleasant effects on the action of the developer, and from everything I've read this can be especially true for staining developers. Plus I always follow the 15secs of agitation every 30 seconds in the instructions - seems like this developer cannot get too much agitation.

Joe
 
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VoidoidRamone

VoidoidRamone

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I started developing my film from Moab last night, and so far the wd2d negs look alright, I can't see any streak. Previously I think I was being careless and only agitating for 5-10 sec every 30... not 15 every 30, so maybe that was the problem. I am going to try distilled water also.
Gainer- after looking at my other prints with the streak I noticed that it isn't always in the same spot, but it is the same shape of streak. But it usually starts on an edge and moves to the middle. The streak in the sunflower photo was in the sky, and some of the others were over the subject matter.
titrisol- the instructions that come with the developer recommend a 2min presoak, and they also say that WD2D+ can be used with both roll and sheet films.
I'm going to try the distilled water, maybe that and more agitation will solve it... we'll see. -Grant
 
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