I really want to develop my film while over in Japan this Summer. Not keen about xraying the film over and over again... So, I thought I would test this monobath with a couple of medium format films that I will be using over there.
CineStill B/W Monobath Developer
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- Thread starter Andrew O'Neill
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Nice video @Andrew O'Neill. That’s definitely a surprising color for the liquid! @Huss has a whole thread of his photos in this mono bath. For your travel purposes it seems ideal. I will keep that in mind as well.
the anti-halo dye on the back of some 120 films will colour the developer in some cases. I can still recall the shock I had when I poured out a tank of purple developer the first time that happened to me.
Yes! Some films have a lot of dyes that end up in the developer or fixer. The surprising thing here was that it started out that color before any film touched it.
OP
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I was quite surprised with the colour!
Hmm, when I mixed up a batch from the powder it was not that colour. Did you use distilled water? Mine was basically clear with a pinkish tint.
I don't like using the powder as it gets in the air and takes forever to dissolve. Even then there seem to be bits in it.
I much prefer the bottles - but make sure you get the ones with the rubber/plastic plugs as the ones w the foil seal seem to leak. Once air gets in, it starts to degrade.
The way to tell if you got a good batch is it should be clear from the get go. It then starts to darken with use. If it is yellow from a new bottle - it has already degraded/air has leaked in.
I don't like using the powder as it gets in the air and takes forever to dissolve. Even then there seem to be bits in it.
I much prefer the bottles - but make sure you get the ones with the rubber/plastic plugs as the ones w the foil seal seem to leak. Once air gets in, it starts to degrade.
The way to tell if you got a good batch is it should be clear from the get go. It then starts to darken with use. If it is yellow from a new bottle - it has already degraded/air has leaked in.
You should also try DF96 to push film. Kentmere 400 @1600 is remarkably low grain when devd in DF96. It basically looks the same as if it was @ 400.
Andrew, I wonder to what we can attribute the difference between your colour (cloudy yellowish ) and that described by Huss( clear with a pinkish tint)? Your packets looked as if the powder was sealed before opening but I wasn't sure if you had used distilled water. Certainly Huss' description of the yellow colour suggests that maybe the powder had deteriorated
I can't draw any meaningful conclusion as to what if anything was wrong with the powder nor by definition from this whether the film's outcome was less than as it should have been
pentaxuser
I can't draw any meaningful conclusion as to what if anything was wrong with the powder nor by definition from this whether the film's outcome was less than as it should have been
pentaxuser
Another advantage of getting it in liquid form is it comes in a purpose made container. Instead of using an old soda bottle etc.
The disadvantage of the liquid form, however, is that you're shipping a "hazardous" liquid so it will ship by ground only (takes a week or more to get from California to the east coast, if you order direct from Cinestill, for instance, and not eligible for "free" shipping from B&H), and you're paying to ship water, which is relatively heavy. You already have water, why pay to ship it? Moreso, the shelf life of unused chemical is surely longer in the two envelopes than in the jug.
many local shops stock it. I would much prefer to wait a few extra days than deal w the powdered form. Speaking from experience.
What is this "local shop" of which you type? I know of no such thing near Winston-Salem...
Andrew is taking it to Japan, so in his case, powder is definitely the only option.
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OP
I used tap water, just in case I don't have time to suss out distilled water (when I lived over there, I could only buy 500ml bottles at a chemist!)... So, it's tap water over there for me. That could be why the colour was different...
There's your problem. Cinestill says to use distilled water. Using tapwater is introducing other chemicals into the process.
Just increase your temp by 5 degrees Fahrenheit for every extra stop you push.
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But it wasn't a problem. Films developed very nicely. Tap water quality is good where I'll be, so that is what I'll be going with... I'll be bringing along an exposed test roll of unimportant images for clip test, before I commit my good rolls.
But it wasn't a problem. Films developed very nicely. Tap water quality is good where I'll be, so that is what I'll be going with... I'll be bringing along an exposed test roll of unimportant images for clip test, before I commit my good rolls.
That yellow colour is the colour mine gets when it starts to deplete. So things are happening to it. Cinestill calls for distilled water so they can control the chemistry. When you add tap water, you are adding chlorine, fluoride, salts, etc.
Anyway.
OP
OP
Good to know, thanks!
Thank Huss.
You’re welcome!
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