I'm assuming you mean the old, German Bessa II not the new Japanese one, if so I've used the Bessa 1 & Mamiya 6 (similar to M7), they are totally different to use, M is easier because VF is so much better. Since you don't give any info on what you plan to do with the camera it's probably impossible to advise which one is best for you. My only comment is that they will probably both hold their value quite well so if you buy one and decide t wasn't for you you could sell it without losing too much.I'm trying to decide which one to get. The price is obviously different but would save for the better cmaera/lens/result.
Do any of you have experience with these two cameras and if so which one is easier to use and which one produces the best pictures.
I believe the mamiya is a 6X7 and the voigtlander a 6X9. Would the size of the negative make that much difference in the detail?
Thanks,
I have and use a Mamiya 6 with 50, 75, 150mm lenses) and use it for travel landscapes, mostly the 75mm on a carbon fibre tripod. I find it a good tool for that. I could do the same shots mostly with a Bessa I/II BUT I would definitely not enjoy using so much - but I'd have a whack more cash for tickets & film compared to the Mamiya. The image quality would be a bit less with the Bessa so I might not enlarge the prints as much and might have to use a 1/2 grade or so more to make them.thanks for the quick response. I prefer to photograph scenery and portraits. Yes I do mean the Old Bessa ll. My father in-law used one many years ago in europe and when I view his pictures I'm amazed at the tonality and detail in them. they are much different from the digital ones.
I guess the best comparison would be between and mamiya 7 ll and the fugi GW 690. I just thought for sharper pictures with more detail and cost savings that the bessa ll would fit the bill. If I got the Bessa ll a few years later I would be wondering if I should have gotten the mamiya or the Fuji, assuming that they produce sharper pictures with more detail.
Well I have a concern with folders in general, namely that the fold-out mechanism might not be stable enough over time. If the mechanism were made of invar or such, then fine, but even so, repeated deployment of that mechanism worries me, and I expect that the camera will need routine care and even so, I don't know how well the thing will maintain rigid coplanarity as it wears. I could be overblowing this issue of course, time will tell. But honestly I don't think there is much argument for a folder if what you want is ultimate sharpness. That's just not what RF folders are designed for.
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